The Cairngorms

In July 1986, I had my first experience of the Cairngorms, Britain's largest mountain range. It wasn't pretty. We'd driven up the previous day in the ubiquitous Ford Transit minibus, we being the Greenfield Comprehensive school mountaineering club, and camped at Glenmore. The plan was the 'four four thousanders' Cairn Gorm, Ben Macduibh, Cairn Toul and Braeriach. On the climb we soon entered the cloud, then the rain, which persisted until we eventually dropped off the plateau into the Lairig Ghru. Views from both Cairngorm and Ben Macduibh had been nil, and in those days, nav was via map, compass and the Naismith formula. By the time we reached Corrour bothy it was late afternoon and we'd had enough. This was mine, and others, first experience of a Scottish mountain bothy, and it wasn't a pleasant one for us, or the current occupants. Our leader stuck his head round the (knackered) door, noted the half dozen people in residence, stated "alright folks, we are in here tonight" and in we went. 

Oh dear. A couple took one look at us (wet) youths and departed to pitch their tent. We piled in for much needed food, whilst the current occupants shuffled up to accommodate us. Despite the over crowding, we had a hearty meal and then turned in. Well some of us did. Four lads volunteered to sleep in a zardsky bag, a tube of waterproof but unbreathable nylon, outside so the rest of us could cram into the bothy. I had an uncomfortable night semi crouched, listening to one of our adults hideously loud snores.

The next morning was grim. The rain persisted, all around the bothy was litter, knackered remains of tents and... shite. You could say this era was the nadir of bothy life as their popularity grew and the Mountain Bothy Association struggled to maintain these old shelters against a rising tide of irresponsible use. By the time we stirred, the other residents had packed up and left in disgust. We had breakfast, the group leader gave the couple camping a load of abuse when they dropped a bag of empty cans and rubbish in the bothy, and the guys who had slept outside moaned about how wet they were. 

In view of the weather, Cairntoul and Braeriach were shelved. Instead we walked up the 'Ghru after a leisurely morning. Over the pass the weather cleared and by the time we hit the Sinclair hut, the sun was beating down. This one was empty, so we occupied it and dried our kit, whilst larking about in the adjacent burn. A far better night followed, and after a leisurely walk out, we de-loused in the (now long gone) Aviemore resort jacuzzi and had an easy night in the campsite.

In 1990 I returned with Dad, Mike Thornton (now ex School Mountaineering Club Leader), his son, and others from their loose group of mountaineering friends. This time, we thrashed various rep-mobiles up the now much improved A9 and camped in the Sugar Basin car park for an early start.

Despite a sunny morning, we entered the cloud soon after the Ptarmigan restaurant and more dead reckoning navigation was required across the bleak plateau. Dropping down to the 'Ghru took us into sunshine and a pause at the Garbh Coire bothy - little more than a pile of stones over an iron frame. This had been a planned stopping point but it was only 3 and close to the summer solstice so off we went for the final two summits - Cairn Toul and Braeriach. Views came and went and when we finally dropped off the last hill back to the Sinclair hut, the sky cleared as the sun set. So ended a 16 hour day, one my longest on foot and only just beaten by our recent Summer solstice bike ride. Sadly the Sinclair hut was far scuzzier than it had been 4 years previous and I actually slept outside in a borrowed bivvy bag. A year later it was condemned and soon after removed.

The Watt Wheelers cycling club annual autumn trip to Pitlochy on the periphery of the Cairngorms provided a tantalising taste of this vast wilderness. We stayed in caravans at the nearby Faskally camp site and much beer drinking and drunken cycling followed. The first year I went saw us heading up the long and straight strath that is Glen Tilt, a classic through route of the southern Cairngorms, but only as far as the track end before heading back again. Other times we headed west round Loch Rannoch and the main hills of the 'gorms remained unreachable.

Then in 1995, I finally did the whole of Glen Tilt, my first proper excursion into the Southern Cairngorms. Myself, Neil and Malcolm hatched a plan to ride from Pitlochry up the river side trails, ride through to Braemar and stay over at the youth hostel, before riding back out over the road the next day. The weather was stunning and we ambled the 30 odd miles up to and through the glen to the Linn of Dee and thence Braemar. In those days the single track section was totally natural, however weeks of sunshine meant it was all bone dry. Writ large was the mainly uphill-ness of this section, i.e. we had done the route the wrong way... 

Malcolm on an infamous river crossing

So after a night in the hostel, and a few beers, we hatched plan B for the next day - stuff a huge road ride, lets just ride back down the Tilt, which we did. 

October 1997, back in Pitlochry, Max (who had missed out on the summer tour) had a great idea - lets do this circuit, but in one go, i.e. road over to Strath Ardle, then Spittal of Glenshee via a trail marked on the map, over the mighty Cairnwell road to Braemar, then back via Glen Tilt. A late start, thanks to our usual drinking sesh the night before, made the prospect a bit dubious given dark O'clock would be around 7. We had a few newbies with us (Vicky, Iona, Danny, Malcom G) who, whilst enthusiastic, admitted that 60 miles, 3 big hills and a long trail, was a lot more than they had ever tackled before. In the event, only Iona and Vicky stuck with us, the other two electing for a local ride. The boundless energy of youth kept us on. 

Pre ride group photo

The first trail looked promising as it had a Scottish Rights of Way sign on it (and is now part of the Cateran Trail), and it did indeed go OK, but took a while, as did the Cairnwell climb, last done in the dark by some of us a couple of mid-summer's previously. A pause for food in Braemar highlighted our position in the heart of the Southern Cairngorms, mountains all around. But we couldn't wait as dusk wasn't far away. We made it to the singletrack as dusk was starting to fall and all were of like mind - keep moving! Which we did, all managing to pick their way down the tricky descent with darkness falling just as we hit the doubletrack, something of a relief.

We actually repeated this pattern several times over the next few years. The last time we nearly had an epic as it got dark when we reached Bynack Lodge. The problem being one team member who refused to go at any speed other than dead slow, so despite an early start progress had been painful. We ended up split up as some of us didn't have lights, a far from ideal scenario. Finally someone had the radical idea of starting early and in the summer!

Then one year we eschewed Pitlochry for Aviemore, the plan being to get stuck into these hills properly. We figured on doing the Lairig Ghru climb, at least, and then maybe the full traverse, if the weather looked favourable. In the event, after reaching the site of the now removed Sinclair Hut, most of us headed back down but Max and Richard decided to keep on, planning on returning via White Bridge and the now well used Geldie to Feshie route. They had an absolute epic as the Ghru trail was a couple of years off NTS's first attempt to do up; and the Feshie Geldie route saw little use in those days so was vague. We should have been worried, but the boundless optimism of youth saw them (and us) right and they returned at 11, having had a hell of a time getting out of Glen Feshie with poor lights and a missing map.

Of note during this period was the National Trust for Scotland who bought Marr Lodge estate that covered a chunk of the southern part of the Cairngorms. Controversially, they immediately banned cycling from all parts of the estate, which led to uproar from the local bike riding community. Rumour had it that the cash for the buy had been put up by a bunch of noveau riche London types who had stipulated this as a condition so they could blast the local wildlife population undisturbed. All credit to the CTC and their campaigns leader, the late John Taylor, who proved that Glen Tilt was a cycling ROW, all thanks to the records of the Rough Stuff Fellowship dating back well beyond the required 20 years. Things were changing, with Land Reform high on the agenda, but this sneaky move led to many people getting grief from NTS Rangers for no good reason.

I finally got good weather on a trip in 2001 with my then Girlfriend. This was a motoring tour as everywhere south of the border was into foot and mouth restrictions. Fortunately, the Cairngorms and other upland areas were free of such restrictions so I got her up a few hills, including the usual circuit from the Cas car park up to the summit of Cairngorm and round the Northern Corries. The sun shone and the views were fab.

Fair to say I was smitten. Hill walking snobs actually used to turn their noses up at the mighty 'gorms in those days, as they lacked the interest of the western hills. Locals knew better and there was much east and west rivalry, dating back to the post war clubs that first ventured into many parts of Scotland previously only seeing the odd naturalist, geologist or vicar; as well as Victorian toffs out to blast the local wildlife.

Other than the 2001 trip, I didn't get up for a few years as motorbiking was occupying my time. Then in 2003 me and friend Rob did another southern Cairngorms classic - up Glen Bruar and then over the high level Minigaig pass. The weather was fab, and the Minigaig was fairly well worn in those days. But still a hard trail with some navigational challenges on the descent. We did consider a Feshie / Geldie / Glen Tilt return but Rob had a crash and hurt his knee so the Gaik it was - actually my first ride through here. I repeated the Minigaig myself a year later, this time getting the descent totally wrong (no GPS in those days) resulting in a mission to regain the trail. Thereafter I started my own trail bagging campaign and even did the Pitlochry / Spittal / Braemar / Tilt circuit. This period represented a bit of waning interest in mountainbiking for me. Long distance commuting led to a rising interest in road biking of all things!

Things began to change in 2005 when friends Rob and Iona moved up to Aviemore. Plus Land Reform came in and suddenly a whole vast range of mountainbiking opened up, no longer requiring sneaky scampering past estate buildings, rangers or irate hill walkers. Their new gaff became our destination to celebrate Hogmanay and many years saw us ride the woods hugging the northern flanks of the plateau and the miles of ace singletrack. These remain some of the best in Scotland, as they are well drained, extensive if you have the knowledge and devoid of all other people.

Rob and Iona did much exploration of the classic through routes, whetting my appetite for more. A long distance relationship wiped out many weekends so it wasn't until 2007 that I finally saw my first excursion into the interior.

This was Iona's idea, with Rob, Alex, Dwayne and myself tagging along. Singletrack magazine was asking for people to submit 'epic rides' and Iona figured this one would outdo all others. We'd ride up to Glenmore and over into the Fords Avon, over to Linn of Dee then back via the Geldie / Feshie trail. I.e. the Cairngorms 'inner loop' that was yet to be a thing at that time. Rob pulled out as he had terrible toothache and needed to get to a dentist ASAP, so the rest of us departed at 7.30 am, into a fine day.

Todays crew

Heading up the trail past Bynack More to the Fords. This trip predated any pathwork on this route, and it was hard, and slow going. The last section to the Fords was particularly rough, with much walking and clambering required.

Fords of Avon Shelter at last, and the fords easy. Of course the tough trail persists right up to the pass.

First bit of good news, the NTS had done a load of work on the path. They were still 'banning' cycling off doubletrack - there compromise post land reform, despite it being against said reform. The ban also got ignored comprehensively by a burgeoning group of new mountainbikers moving to the area and riding all and sundry. The new trail was a bit brutal in places and several monster cross drains on the descent required regular dismounts, but it was generally fast going - a good thing as time was rolling on. The Geldie / Feshie route was next and something of an unknown quantity. Iona had done it before, and noted it was a bit vague in places. In the event, the dry weather, and several newly upgraded sections made it good going until the last couple of k to the Eidart bridge, which required a fair bit of navigation, and not much trail. 

Of course the descent was ace and when we hit the double track, much relief followed, briefly. When Iona had ridden down Glen Feshie with Rob a few years previously, the original track was still largely in tact (and the bridge at the bottom of it.) But now the first section looked to be a near none-existent goat track over a rather precipitous slope plus we knew the bridge was out and the trail beyond it dubious. So instead we elected to cross the river (three times!) in order to keep on the double track the estate had put in to miss all the landslips. Iona took us on one last bit of single track to regain the road for the last miles home. What a day!

I finally did the Minigaig / Feshie / Geldie Tilt circuit the following year, and several times after. This remains a classic adventurous day out. A key to doing it in one day is the link from the Minigaig summit to the upper Feshie via a high level route over a couple of hills. At 50 miles, nearly all off road, and crossing some of the wildest land in Britain, definitely a must do for all intrepid bike riders.

Summit of peak 912 (no name!) looking to the back of the Cairngorm Plateau, on a fine March day.

Another 'classic' route was up to Carn Ban Mor. Most rode up the double track put in by the estate for stalking, then down and increasingly rough singletrack. The day we did it (August 2009) the single track had recently been done up and was a bit brutal in terms of stone features. So we headed up the big track to Carn Ban Mor summit then cut north to Sgor Gaoith and carried on along the ridge picking up a steep and rock descent back to the glen floor, the nearest I've been to Alpine bike riding.

Iona on the long, long climb.

Looking down to Loch Eidart (another well known in and out ride, done on that weekend in 1998), Braeraich in the background.

Rock-tastic

In 2010, there were more changes for me and a return to cycle touring after a long break, but with off road sections thrown in. I was riding my local hills regularly but my sights were once again set on the various Cairngorm through routes, and how I could get to them

I wasn't alone. The trail centre boom in the early 2000's was starting to fizzle by the end of the decade, as people sought more and more routes away from the ranks of sitka spruce. The Cairngorms were an obvious target, given how accessible they were and the quantity and quality of good riding. I'd love to know at what point in those days, every trail possible to ride, had been ridden. The 'Cairngorms tour' also became more well known, first mooted in guide books of the '90's but seen as a step far to far for most people only willing to commit to a day ride. But at the same time, the Scottish coast to coast which passed through the northern edge of the Plateau) was also becoming popular and doing multi day off road trips was now seen as a 'thing.' 

That thing became the UK bikepacking scene which grew from several roots in Wales, Northern England and Scotland, fueled by a rising tide of routes and intel in the US. The bikepacking bag cottage industry helped, as well as a raft of new ultra lightweight camping gear.

2011 saw my first real go at it. I worked out an optimistic route weaving through the Eastern Cairngorms and finishing with a key part of the Cairngorms tour route to Aviemore from Braemar. It didn't go quite to plan but the seed was sewn, and many more trips followed.

First time on the Egg Path, in the rain. It's become one of my favourites.

The Gaik on an Orange 5. This pass is also a favourite as it's fairly straightforward, the scenery is fabulous and it cuts a huge corner off the fairly dull A9 cycle route. River crossings can be tricky however, of which more later.

The following years saw regular excursions to the Cairngorms for day rides, weekend trips and longer bikepacking rides.

On a weekend trip last year, doing a variation of the Tour, I tried to count my passes of the various through routes, but lost count, but well into double figures. What had previously been considered a hugely intimidating area to penetrate by bike, was now routine, familiar and, whilst not easy, certainly straightforward and huge fun. Many, many others have reached the same conclusion and it's rare to not meet others on bikes whilst traversing the various passes. Glaciation is the key, as this area saw vast ice sheets carving long straths through the hills, making altitude over many miles, rather than the brutal climbs of the north west hill passes.

On the 'Tilt single track. A fair bit of work was done on this in 2015 so for the most part it's dry. There are a couple of tricky burn crossings, and the steep drop to your left if you are descending has caught a few folk out over the years.

Looking up Strath Nethy to the backside of Cairngorm, as fine a place you could ever be in on a warm Spring day.

I've still a few trails to bag, in particular the Lairig Ghru. After Max and Richard's traverse in the late '90's, the NTS ended up throwing a large amount of money at the trail and for a few years it became a much easier prospect by bike. However it didn't last and much of the work in the upper pass got trashed by the weather in short order. I did the southern end on a day trip in 2017, but the consensus on the whole route is 'don't bother'. Inspite of this (or because of it?) it remains a beguiling challenge. Of course I could walk it, but this leaves the difficulty of returning to the start point and fighting your way out of Braemar via public transport (and Aberdeen.) I'll do it one day, and I'll ensure the weather is good, and I'll do it in a onner, on the same route Max and Richard used.

In the meantime, I'll reflect on all those trips I've done, and look to many more in hopefully better times. As I write this, the Glenmore to Nethy Bridge track is shut due to a huge moorland fire, which looks like it was started by someone near the bothy. Roll on next year!

A word on rivers

A defining feature of the Cairngorms are some of Scotland's biggest rivers. The Spey and the Dee are the most well known ones, roughly defining it's north and south boundaries. But many others start from the interior and define the vast glaciated straths through which you will pass on the various routes in the area.

Classic Cairngorm river valley - wide and flat bottomed with steep terrain on either side. This is the Feshie - it's bed the wide area of rock and stone just visible. The old river bed in the foreground is typical of the area - big rivers change their course regularly. If you do the Geldie Feshie traverse from Braemar, you will encounter this mighty river on several occasions. As noted above the tracks down it's upper reaches have been variously trashed, re-aligned, trashed again, etc. Generally you will get down the east side (i.e. the Cairngorms Loop route), albeit it's a bit hairy in places!

The Geldie, on the way into Glen Tilt from Linn of Dee. This used to run in two channels, one of which could be quite deep and would often stop people in their tracks if in spate. Early 2016 saw Storm Frank left this - a wide and shallow bed. In the ten years since, successive storms have led to more channeling, but unless it's particularly bad you will get across. The large boulder just above my bike has remained despite all of this and provides a good reference point as the river changes.

Many other water courses around the range have caused all manner of problems to people passing through the straths, with even small burns causing problems when in flood. I've had more close shaves (and wet feet) than I can recall and every trip is preceded by much scrutiny of weather and the SEPA river levels page. It's not just a case of rivers being high when it rains and low when it doesn't however. Snow melt, dryness of ground and intensity of rain fall all play a part. 

Storm Bertha in 2014 was typical. The ground was bone dry and then a vast volume of water fell in a few hours, going straight into the various rivers and causing much damage. Storm Frank and the Muckle Spate of 1850 were very similar - high snowfall, large temperature rise, large snow melt and several hours of heavy rain led to a vast increase in water levels on all rivers in the catchment and vast amounts of damage.

Be warned, but that's what adventure is all about!

Great Glen Way and HT Loop

After my last post, it's fair to say there have been some ups and downs. The major down was a return visit to the Consultant and the bombshell that it will be more like 12-18 months rather than 6-9 before I'm free of my current 'thing.' Some web research suggested this was well on the conservative side, but at least gave me some small comfort that what's been done to me isn't that uncommon and it will work...

But, I need to get on with life and make the best of things. Bike riding has taken place and after one particularly bad spell, things improved to see me heading towards a reasonable monthly total for June. In a fit of optimism I booked a couple of nights away, on the back of a desire to ride the new section of the Highland Trail route (i.e to bag 15k of what I hoped to do all of, before this palaver came along) in the hills west of Loch Ness. Drumnadrochit hostel had single en-suit rooms which should enable me to operate effectively for a couple of days without worrying about stuff.

The forecast was pretty rubbish after a sunny week, but the leisurely drive up the A9 was done largely in sunshine. I arrived early so took a wander up the Affric and Kintail Way route to Corrimony.

Very sunny. And a nice trail, albeit with a humongous climb as an opener. I backtracked but managed to scope out a couple of nice single track descents back to base. The 'room' in the hostel turned out to be a shipping container, albeit decked out quite nicely so ideal for my modest needs, i.e. a bed, a shower and a loo. 

Drumnadrochit is a strange place. It's dominated by the usual nessie nonsense (the greatest tourist scam in the history of the western world) and a few other touristy places. But it took a while to scope out that the only shop was a new Co-op half a mile along from the original village centre, and on the back of a large social housing scheme. Doubtless Highland Council Planners know what they are doing, but it seems a strange mix with all the tourist tat, and only a (busy) road to get people to the nearest source of work, i.e. Inverness.

Fortunately the pub opposite the digs had an outside seating area and catering van doing fish and chips. So I sat in the evening sun eating and drinking, before retiring to my tin hut for more drink and relaxation.

For the Tuesday I had three options - two loops which I could do one, the other or both; 30-60 miles. As forecasted, I woke to light rain and heavy overcast so I grabbed breakfast from the cafe next door and considered what to do. Writ large was the fact that I was here, my form seemed good and I'd not be back any time soon. So after much faffing and a call into the Co-op for enough food to propel me round the whole route I set off. Within half a mile I was into a massive climb, but lo and behold, the rain went off and the sun came out. Off with the water proofs (never to be worn again, in the event) and twiddle up the hill. Yes I was on the Ice Cream Truck with a nice low gear and extreme anticipation of the Loch Ma Stack shore line, last ridden on this bike in 2015 on a foreboding day two of the Highland Trail.

The Great Glen Way is indeed great. The Badger Divide uses it but it's worth seeking out in any event. It's well built and good fun in places, plus obviously well managed as a new section appeared to avoid a road section and a couple of forest tracks being used for felling access. My only criticism is similar to all these made trails, they tend to have a lot of unnecessary ups and downs, often ridiculously steep. Despite all my hard work in the early 2000's, route planners still tend to let a contractor find their own line and not set it out for them. A nice contouring trail would have been very easy! However, I set aside such concerns and dug in. There were a fair few oncoming walkers, many with light loads as a few firms offer baggage portage along the route; plus a couple of Badger Dividists. 

No sign of any monsters. And there is no need for such nonsense - just let it quietly die a death as their are plenty of other reasons to come here, this scenery being the main one.

I took the high level route, via a particularly steep thrutch and my one and only fail of the route. I am once again loving what I can get up on the fatty, after much singlespeeding in recent years, but a multiple slimy step up beat me. This then led to a steep and twisty descent - as noted above, it's all commercial F&LS land so why no easy contour? Hard work but good fun. It ended on a track end which took me to the HT route above Invermoriston. 

Looking down the glen I've just twiddled up (gears are great!) As I'd noted when I rode it on HT '23 it's a fab track, proper old school landrover style rather than a windfarm / hydro scheme / stalking access motorway. It winds its way up through the woods with only a couple of steeper bits, finally joining a rough track following a pipeline which is part of the local water supply infrastructure, doubling as a hydro electric scheme.

I actually took this pic after a nav error so a back track was needed and soon enough I did hit the windfarm motorways. But unlike last year on my futile HT ride, the wind was a breeze, and whilst the first shower of the day came through, it was short lived and followed by sun and the prospect of a long dry spell. Views of Kintail and even a glimpse of the distant Mamores made me smile. I was back amongst mountains.

Lunch on the shores of Loch Ma Stack. This was thoroughly enjoyable, taking my time and admiring the view and a few waterborn birdies. I did once ride it the other way outside of an HT group ride, but 6 other times I was on a mission and for three of those the weather was a shocker. This time was just good fun and the Ice Cream Truck ate it for breakfast. I dabbed twice! In 2015, the water level was much higher so the last couple of hundred metres had to be walked. I more or less managed it in '23 and '25 but a granny gear and 5" tyres are the tool for the job for this.

I had a nosy at the haunted house but the ghosts are gone. Someone is doing a major refurb - new roof, doors and windows. It's all firmly locked so not looking like it will be a bothy. But this did make me think what it will be used for. The track up to it is rough as, and boggy. Making this car accessible will cost a bomb and require at least one major structure. As an 'off grid' residence it would certainly fit the bill... Time will tell. Whoever is doing it has been on the go for over 3 years now so they don't appear to be in any rush. Maybe the next time the track in will be super smooth.

I called into the Corrimony Bothy for a nosy, but the end room is now in danger of collapse. I guess no estate wants to encourage bothy dwelling these days but I hope the MBA take it on. On the descent I diverted to check out 'Mony's cave and a fine waterfall (no pic, I walked down and left the phone in the bike bag!) then whizzed down the track to Corrimony. Fair to say I was smiling all the way, happy I had done this route away from the pressure of the HT, in the dry (more or less) and on the fat bike. Now what?

The weather still looked OK, despite my fear it would close in over the moor, I was feeling super strong, pain free and motivated. Let's go!

I retraced the previous days route to Balnain then after a bit of road commenced a mighty climb up onto Eskadale Moor. Once again, I was on a fine landrover track. I can see the windfarm companies eyeing this area up though so god knows how long this will survive. The next stretch north on the HT route, the infamous track of a thousand puddles, is now doomed. HC Planners seem happy to allow every hill in the area to be covered in turbines - views all around show turbines in all directions. Why Loch Ness isn't part of a National Park beggars all sense and smacks of politics and large landowner influence. 

So make the most of it! Which I did, trundling up the first climb and following a charming path round various small gnolls, views all around. 

3 shorter climbs follow then a long descent to Boblainy Forest. The route narrows down here, pretty much to a single track. It clearly sees a lot of bike use, I guess being on the Schnecky gravel bike circuit. Into the woods was a bit over grown at first before an access road to a sub station was joined and a dilemma. My route took me further into the woods to Kiltarlity, but I would be too late for the cake shop, so why bother when I could do a short cut. It boiled down to why not? More nav faffing in the event after a long descent. My GPX was from Alan Goldsmith's original planning track and led me to a blank wall of forest where the map showed a double track. After a bit of rumination I back tracked as it was too late in the day for either a death march or any other route faff. So I ground back up the climb and down to a brief run on the A833 then back road up to my route. 

Just the GGW back to Drumnadrochit - around 12k - but the climb up the ridge overlooking Loch Ness revealed legs that were starting to feel the miles. However the track through the woods above the loch was mighty fine and led to a fab descent down to the A82. 

Ahead of joining this it looped behind a private house (another steep climb) and passed through about 6 totally unnecessary gates (fenced path, no livestock) all of which I left open. I get how difficult negotiating access is but that doesn't preclude common sense. No livestock, no gate.

Anyway, the last mile was on the A82 footway as the days only significant rain came and went. I finished up back in the pub seating area as the rain became torrential! A large brolly kept me dry as I ate burger and chips, with a pint, whilst contemplating a fabulous days ride. Total distance was 100k, despite my short cut but thanks to the two nav faffs. Climbing total was 2250m thanks to the ups and downs of the GGW - into YD200 territory! 

My final day was a depart from a sunny Loch Ness and a meet up with my mate Rob at Findhorn for some beach riding fun. The tide was coming in but we managed to keep to the sand all the way to Burghead for lunch. The return was via the fun sandy single track. 

One shower came in from which we sheltered under a tree but once again we stayed dry inspite of a rather damp forecast. Rain did stop a BBQ but we had it inside instead.

So a good trip and whilst no bivvying was involved, revived me immensely. It's now July and the summer is in full swing! 

The unexpected

So my parting comment on the 'winter' post about a minor health issue preventing any further winter fun, didn't quite cover where I now find myself. 'Minor' was suddenly a lot less minor, and another hospital visit ensued, MRI scan and another opp. OK, it's not 'serious' (i.e. I'm not going to die) but it's pretty nasty, slightly horrible and a bit embarrassing, the classic middle aged ailment. I'll not share the details (look up 'fistula' on the NHS website, but only if you have a strong stomach) and there are some other complications, caused by a lifetime of sitting on various saddles, but the upshot is a pain in the fundament, both figuratively and literally. 

At least I can still do exercise, ride bikes (and motorbikes) and carry on regardless, kind of. But there is a fair bit of management required - pain and hygiene - and it's not a quick fix. 6 months as a minimum, more likely to the end of the year and possibly into next. 

A couple of take homes: Firstly, lumps. If you find them, get them checked out. Secondly, causes; which there isn't, it's just 'one of those things.' But this particular thing, whilst fairly rare can happen to anyone. What do you do....

OK so it's not cancer but the long term-ness of it is more like a serious injury, like a broken leg. You have to get your head into that injury space - take it day by day, don't over react to good or bad days and try to lead as normal a life as you can, or else you'll go mad.

Anyway, I did my first proper bike ride today and all was well, more or less. Just an oft used local trail circuit to enable an easy bail home if things went awry. The trails were drying, the birds were tweeting and the blossoms were appearing which improved my mood no end. I can also use the trainer so all being well I should manage to maintain my fitness level, which was at an all time high by the end of February, thanks to last years bumper mileage and some mega hard snow rides this year.

What I can't do is camp, hence no March BAM and in all likelihood no other BAMs until the autumn at the earliest.

Last weekend we did our annual adder survey in Glen Rosa on the Isle of Arran. I nearly didn't go but 'get on with it' will be my motto until I'm through this. The weather looked a bit iffy but we made it over, did the survey and counted lots and lots of adders. This was extremely gratifying after last years survey post the big moor fire, and a lot of burned, dead snakes. So I'll finish with a photo of Glen Rosa. I'll not likely post much up until I get better so see you on the other side!

10 adders, all in a heap to keep warm, bless 'em. A couple of work colleagues I showed this to freaked out. Whereas I find them to be fascinating creatures.

Winter 25/26 expeditions

This post will be a record of what I get up to in winter 25/26. I'll record rides and slides that involve snow and ice. For some reason I've an inkling it's going to be a good one, as usual after my first ride in the snow. Goodness knows what we will actually get. I've high hopes of some decent skiing, after last year's lame efforts, but I'll just have to wait and see.

Season Opener 17th November '25

This was a bonus ride really as I was slated to be away all weekend with the Lochore Meadows conservation group at Lochgoilhead for more temperate rainforest restoration. The weather forecast had hinted at the usual wind and rain, then suddenly everyone was going on about there been lots of snow forecast. Some did fall on the Thursday, a chunk more than what I'd spied last month on Ben Lawyers, then the next thing we knew the pressure went up and the temps down. So a fab weekend followed and best of all, I'd blagged a day off work on the Monday to recover. A cold nearly spoiled the party but on waking to a crystal clear day I ignored it and got going. I stuck to a usual circuit round the Ochills, my hopes pinned on Ben Cleuch for some snow time.

Snow on Cnoc Coinnich (alt 764) near Lochgoilhead, peaking above the ridge opposite with more on the higher hills hereabouts. Smoke from large brash fire in the foreground...

Lots of bits of snow above 600m on Ben Cleuch (summit alt 725m) it was all very crunchy after a couple of thaw / freezes and so presented some difficulty where it had filled in the path. Much more on the hills up north! There was also enough ice around to make me wish I'd fitted my newly built wheels shod with studded tyres. Still, a fine day's ride ensued to kick the season off and more snow is due this week.

Friday / Saturday 21st/22nd November

As per November BAM. A large amount of frustration as it had been super cold all week after the dump last Thursday. Cairngorm had been plastered but I could not be bothered traipsing up there, along with every skier in central Scotland; so a local ride it was. Porridge snow conditions led to lots of sliding about and extreme frustration but it was snow and my first try out of tyre studs was pretty successful. Bring it on! 

New Year 2025/2026

Over the last 30 odd years a few of our new years trips / celebrations have featured snow, sometimes in large amounts. This one promised much and contrary to normal practice, delivered! I got up to Speyside ahead of it all, fat bike at the ready and lo and behold Friday 2nd saw 6" plus of the white stuff waiting to be played in. 

And we did, this is on the Speyside way which is quite a good route for skiing as it tends to collect the snow and is smooth and level. An hour along this and around the local woods was hard work so we got back and switched modes, in time for dark O'clock.

Night skiing is ace, with a decent head light. The temps had dropped so the snow was nice and fluffy.

The next day we were out again as there was more snow and drifting.

Not seen this before - loads of bits of ice being carried along in the Spey, probably from it's upper reaches where it had frozen then thawed and broken up. Not quite enough ice to ride on though....

Sunday 4th January

I got home without too much problem and hit my local hills again

This ride nearly didn't make it in as there was no snow at home or in the forecast. But there was a dusting on high and suddenly a large cloud came in and once again I was riding through a blizzard.

Saturday January 10th, into the big white room

A music weekend got canned due to the weather then a trip south was needed which meant no Scottish Winter bivvy. But at least I could cash in on the snow for one ride. Up north looked good but the weather didn't look great, along with the Avalanche forecast. I nearly went with skis but I'd doubts there was enough snow so out with the fatty once more and up into the Ochills. A good move as the lower trails were lovely - a couple of inches of snow and still iron hard. The roads and tracks on the approach were covered in sheet ice thanks to a skim of freezing rain making the studded tyres a very good move. Up high, as usual, the snow depth mounted, topping out at about 6" - a lower crusty layer overtopped with about 2" of fresh. This made for hard going so I went with the trail north from Skythorn hill down to upper Glen Devon. This was a fab descent as the snow levels dropped.

The view.... It had been clear at home with hints of sun. At one point the sky cleared but then it all closed in again.

Lunch at upper Glen Devon res. I did briefly consider going round the shore edge on the ice but it ran out about 100m east of this pic so just as well I didn't. More fun trails followed, backtracking a bit. Ice was a-plenty and the studded tyres sailed across the lot.

The temps are on the rise from tomorrow into Monday before falling a bit. I suspect most of this snow will get wiped out but the rise should stabilise things up north and more will fall on high next week - we appear to be having a proper winter!

Sunday January 18th

I'd no idea if this ride would involve snow or not. In the event another high level expedition into the Ochills took me to some big patches of consolidated snow, frozen iron hard. Clearly the remains of last weeks dump but still more than expected. I spent some time playing on these but the weather was horrible - cloud down and varying amounts of hail and rain so I exited fairly quickly and took no pics. I've done some great snow patch hunting rides over the years, usually after big winters in the trad spring skiing months of March and April. That said, in Scotland you can get any kind of snow condition in December, January and February.... More snow incoming...

Friday 13th  to Sunday 15th February, real winter.

Day 1, bluebirds

Having spent several weeks watching vast amounts of snow fall, thaw / freeze / thaw cycles and a lot of murky / horrendous weather, this weekend, it finally came good.

As per, I'd taken a couple of days off as it was my birthday, in the hope of some winter fun. The last time this worked out was in '21, on my 50th and I had a fine snowy week. Since then it's just been wet...

So when the weather finally looked like it was going the right way, plans were hatched. I figured on some on piste time at first but, annoyingly, I realised it was school half term. Good snow, first decent weather for over a month, school hols = ski areas crowded out. So plan B was to head for remote hills, away from the madding crowd. I chose the hills west of the A9 at Drumochter, as I had a fabulous day of spring skiing in March 2022 here (actually the last time I did some proper turns) and I knew that there was enough easy terrain to be able to have a fun day out, whilst avoiding any avalanche activity. So up early, into the (already loaded up) motor and off up the A9. I arrived at Dalnaspidal lodge at 9.30, spent a lot of time faffing with kit and then marched off, snowy hills in sight. As usual, everything was bare on the road up (below about 600m anyway), despite there being a dusting of snow at home but as with the last time, I got a sudden sight of a solid white Ben A'Ghlo and my destination also looked to have full snow cover.

The walk in was longer than in '22, about 45 mins and the skin up was pretty marginal in places, and dodgy in others. I tried to link up patches of the newer stuff overlaying the old frozen snow, but it was pretty patchy requiring much side stepping, slithering and one slope where I was continually checking the gradient as the fresh snow was slabby and breaking a way under my skis.

Into the big white room. I was focusing more on travelling than putting in some turns so skied up and over Mam Ban then more hard snow ice to an un-named summit before actually removing skis, fitting spikes and walking down to get some shelter for lunch. I was on my S-bounds, with a grip base and half skins, which were on and off a few times. But the snow ice meant uphills were hard work. That said I had some joyous schusses, the sun was blazing, and I saw two mountain hares in their winter coats.

Further sliding and scraping followed and a couple of short downhill runs. 4 years away from downhill skiing meant it took a while to regain some confidence, which I didn't fully, but on the run back out I got down some pretty scraped burn lines without too much trauma, or crashes. The drive home was a chore, thanks to Cairngorm rush hour and roadworks but I was fair chuffed to have got a fab day in on sunny hills, after weeks of horrible weather.

Massive cornice collapse triggered avalanche on the hill above Loch Garry - you wouldn't want to be in the way of this monster. 

Day 2, fat bikes rule!

I actually had the car loaded with skinny skis, destination Ochills, after a bit of peering through the binnocs at a snowy Ben Cleuch. But a clearer view suggested it would be a fat bike day. So a quick u-ey, throw bike into car and off up to Glen Sherup. I should have ridden from home but, being my birthday week, I was keen to get straight onto the good stuff. 

The climb was hard but the snow well tracked and firm, only a few inches deep, even after I passed the magic 500m contour.

Then it got a lot harder - all the footprints turned off towards Tarmangie and a fresh untracked trail was before me. I ground to a halt immediately, dropped tyre pressures all the way down but still struggled. A couple of runners were coming up behind me so I went all out to get some momentum up. Patches of frozen bog kept appearing, then there would be some firm wind slab, followed by more deep, soft snow. A lot of huffing and puffing, swearing, walking and some pedaling got me back to tracked trails. I was now on a mission to get up to Ben Cleuch. 

Up to Andrew Gammel was a solid push but on the descent, I got a hint of the fun to come - big areas of slab that supported the tyres allowing me to float past and through many post-hole footprints. Oh yes! I cut across to the main Cleuch path in the hope it would be well tracked. It was plus large areas of frozen bog allowed an almost easy pedal up the final few hundred meters.

The summit after a lot of effort. On the descent the fun began - first a strip of old frozen snow next to the fence line then more firm windslab enabling a fast pace past several beleaguered walkers. Beyond Ben Ever, it was untracked snow again but this time downhill and also on firm slab.

This is why I persist with fat bikes and expend vast amounts of energy dragging the bike through snow - a wonderful descent, the rumble of powder loud under the wheels and the sun on high.

Food followed and a cruise round the windfarm. I actually saw bits of ice flying off one of the turbines so rode past them sharpish. Then a steep descent to Glendevon res and a hard ride round it. A breather on the road led back to the reservoir trail (mostly frozen and a snowy) to the car park.

Day 3, less optimal

I woke to more snow, but temps were up and it was all looking a bit wet. I figured on skinny skiing in the Ochills to try out my new boards as it should be more snowy than yesterday. There was 4" of (wet) fresh at Glen Sherup car park, so boards onto bag and march up the glen, skis on at the 450m mark. Up the track was OK, with a modest amount of heather hopping. Present were several new patches of drifted in snow off the south westerly wind. This and the old stuff from the previous south easterly's should mean plenty on the north facing slopes.

And there was. I was able to pick a line all the way round to Skythorn hill and then round this. Less pleasant was the weather. I'd climbed into the clag just after donning skis and now cold rain came on in earnest. Plans to push on to Ben Cleuch were shelved and I headed back down, roughly following my outward route, noting the potential for some downhill fun along the way. By the time I got back to the car I was soaked and starting to chill, despite a blistering downhill pace.

Plenty of snow still and more to come ahead of a mild spell so I'm looking forward to the next weather window!

Except I didn't. Long story short a minor 'health issue' prevented bike riding. I could have got some fab spring skiing done but it would have involved time off work I couldn't afford. So there we have it, winter 2025/26 is done for me (but still going on in the Cairngorms and the Ben). Still, a vast improvement on the last couple of years and the fatty got a good work out. Now, it's spring!