Wednesday 29 July 2015

A Leisurely Cairngorms tour

Its fair to say that the weather this year has been pretty crap. Winter below 500m involved a lot of wind and rain. Above there was plenty of snow but storm force winds and skiing don't really work. Spring wasn't much better and as for the Highland Trail....

There was a brief respite in June with a couple of good weeks including my assault on the capital trail in midsummer. Thereafter is was back to more wind and rain with only a brief glimpse of the sun here and there.

I was keen to do a weekend trip and after a couple of abortive goes finally made it out on the last week in July. I'd blagged a Monday off and the weather forecast wasn't too bad so I stuck to a tried and tested formula - drive up to Blair Atholl after work, abandon the car in the visitor center car park and head up the long strath that is Glen Tilt. 


Glen Tilt single track. Up or down its peachy

I'd last done this in early May, to the accompaniment of much rain and then even snow. So today it was most pleasant to be twiddling my way up the glen in sunshine with a stiff breeze behind me. My timings were identical to the last time but darkness was over an hour later so there was no hurry. I passed my frozen campsite of May and carried on to the ruins of Bynack Lodge, somewhere I've been meaning to camp for years. Another tent was already there so I moved away and pitched up. The evening stayed pleasant and I woke to more dryness and warmth.


The Geldie was low and as usual the run out to Linn of Dee was bliss. For a change I missed out Braemar and headed to the Linn of Quoich. From here there is a good track up the glen that I had last ridden in 2014 on a cold April day with the rivers full of snow melt. Today it was lovely with the smell of juniper and bog mirtle strong in my nose, even the midges were nowhere to be seen! From the track end a good path continues east ish. This is not marked on the OS but was put in by the NTS as a way to get to Ben Avon from the Quoich. Its very pleasant rolling in and out of the scots pine woodland, climbing steadily but easily. It was also dry, dry! 

Beyond the woods it becomes more of a stony trail but easy going with only the crossing of the upper Quoich water a challenge. Thereafter it climbs more steeply to join the main trail out of Glen An ti-Sluggain. 

Looking back down the Quoich Water

Looking up towards Ben Avon

Now usually I might turn north towards the vast amphitheater of Ben Avon and climb over into Glen Gairn and then down the fab single track. Today I was keen to explore Glen An ti-Sluggain and I'm glad I did. The trail was easy but passed through a narrow rocky gorge containing the ruins of an old lodge. Somewhere above me was the famous secret howf but not knowing where, I couldn't be bothered hunting for it this fine sunny day.


At Alt Durie I turned north once more and started the steady climb over to Glen Gairn. For a change I turned off on a lesser track which doesn't climb as much. Its pretty rough though but made for a fine challenge and a more interesting descent than the blast down the Cairngorms loop route. 


Near the top looking across to Loch Builg

Phew, there was a bridge - it was shown on the map but that doesn't necessarily mean its actually there... Then it was the short climb up to Loch builg and the fine single track into upper Glen Avon. The sun was shining but I knew rain was expected that night. I was in full on touring mode so on the cruise down to Tomintoul I decided I would stop at the hostel. There is an unofficial campsite next to the games field but there are no facilities so its a bit rough and ready. If I was going to wild camp I was going to do it properly, likewise if I was going to pay, I wanted some luxury (and a few beers!)

So I got to the hostel early enough to have a siesta before tea, a wander round Tomintoul and (of course) some fine ales in the pub.

The next morning was indeed wet and I was in no rush, only needing to get to Aviemore. I had a leisurely start and headed down to the Fire station Cafe for breakfast. Thereafter it was the usual route via Glen Brown, the egg path and Abernethy. The rain had stopped by the time I set off and soon enough the sun was out again. 

From Abernethy I went up the Ryvoan pass noting that the track across the top had indeed been re-surfaced since my last visit last year. Odd as it wasn't that bad and it only really goes to the bothy.

Then it was down glen more and, of course, the mandatory stop for a beer at the Glen more cafe and bar. Suitably fortified I headed along the old logging way to Aviemore and to my mates place. More fine food and drink and a somewhat late night followed....

Monday dawned grey and breezy. I had to head back to Blair Atholl that day but instead of the usual Gaik route I decided to chance the Minigaig as it offers a much more entertaining route. Instead of following the official Right of Way I headed first into Glen Feshie and then climbed steeply out of the glen just after the lodge. 

Glen Feshie

This route links the Minigaig summit to Glen Feshie and misses the now vague and little used Minigaig route north of the pass. Its a big, long climb but my form was still feeling the benefit of my earlier ITT's so I got up no bother, faffed a bit on the steep descent off the trig point and marched firmly up the other side. Beyond here its a case of pick a sheep track and follow it. The riding is generally OK, despite being off path and I soon descended to the main Minigaig route.

Descending it showed just how little use this route gets these days. When I first rode this some 10 years previous the path was clear and quite eroded. Now much of it is overgrown and its starting to vague out in places. I know the route well however and the GPS also kept me right. 

Last dod of snow on the Minigaig. On my trip over here in the snow in March I was riding about 2m above this burn line on a nice compacted layer of spring snow.

I wasn't sure how the final descent would go as its a steep climb when you do it south to north. In the event it was a gem and all rideable with care. Then it was a case of the easy roll out down Glen Bruar, a further climb over into Atholl estate and another easy track back to Blair Atholl.

After the ardors of much of my riding so far this year this was a fine easy tour. It was so relaxing be able to take my time, not stress about timings or worry about finding camp spots. Proper cycle touring!