I'm on the start line again, 553 miles of trail ahead of me. Around me were the usual types, this year (a first) all wearing waterproofs. It was that marvelous rain type that is really quite wet, but allows the midges to have a go at you too. Prior to the previous evening, it had been dry for weeks at home and dryish for weeks across the whole of the Highlands. This on the back of the dryest winter on record. So fair to say seeing this lot come in on day 1 with worse to follow, including high winds, didn't exactly fill me with enthusiasm for my 7th attempt at this route. But I was here and I'd no choice but to give it a good go.
On the start, Alan as cheery as ever.8.30 came and off we went. The rain persisted up into Glen Lyon and then slowly faded away. Fortunately, this and the deluge the previous night hadn't had any impact on the rivers which were barely above tyre level. This year Alan had sent us round the north side of Glen Lyon, as per 16-19, and there is one rather large river to cross as opposed to several small ones. Then the sun came out! In fact as we hit the road, the temps soared and everyone was pealing off waterproofs and layers.
This was all sorts of good news but lots of noise from my rear brake wasn't. On stopping, I realised the brake was binding horribly, you actually had to put a bit of effort into turning the wheel. I'd not noticed as Glen Lyon is a tailwind assisted road descent. This was incredibly annoying as a similar issue had cropped up a month ago. I'd cleaned everything up and bled both brakes and all seemed well, including on a typically steep and long Ochills descent, my final test ride. I stopped to remove the caliper, pump the pistons in and out again and refit. It made BA difference so I squeezed the pads off the disk and avoided using the back brake. This got me over to Rannoch and Up the Ben Alder trail.
Despite the rain, the trails were dry and I had fun. I'd got going towards the front of the bunch and more or less maintained my place but my pace seemed fine so I kept on. A load of people passed me on the Glen Lyon road so that was fine. That said, I passed most of them on either the Gallabaich climb or the Ben Alder climb. As usual it was all very friendly with various brief conversations struck up with passing riders. Pete Aylward from the BB forum was riding again (last attempt also in '23 but post crash injuries meant he had to scratch at Fort A) but having problems with a slipping seat post - another issue he had thought he's sorted pre ride, much like my back brake.
No Ben Alder view this time. The bog hop to the climb was still dry though.
On the descent of the Bealach Dubh the back brake had to be used and it got worse and worse with horrible noises coming from it. I figured on giving it one more go at Culra Bothy and if I couldn't sort, I was out of there. No way was I doing this route on one brake! Anyway, mangled pad spring removed, push back pistons, spare Hope pads and spring in, we're away, fully functional. Bugger.
More good news. In '23 I was amazed to find the rotting old bridge over the Pattack gone and a nice new one in its place. The old one was piled up at the bank side. This year, I was similarly amazed to find the rather boggy track scraped out, a big drainage ditch dug and the latter half surfaced. Hoo-bloody-rah! The old bridge must have been buried on site somewhere - a fitting end.
Trail Angels!
I had a good blether with Donnie and Richie at the start of the Corrieairyack. I'd met them in the same spot in '23, being somewhat bemused that bikepacking was now a spectator sport. This time I accepted their dram as I'd nothing to lose. In the event the whisky went down like nectar and relieved some of the pain.
Jimmy's air B'n'B after a long, long climb, into a strong, strong wind.No view this year, situation normal.
Then Fort Augustus and pizza. Loads of people were there and "that was hard work" was a bit of a theme. Suitably stuffed, I headed up the GGW in search of the first likely bivvy spot as I was done. My fab '21 spot had been clear felled so on we go catching up with Alan just before spying another perfect spot. The midges were about speeding up pitch time, then it was in the bag, swat a few followers and lay back, 98 miles done. The rain came on soon after and continued until dawn. I know this as sleep largely alluded me - I just couldn't seem to switch off, despite using all my usual tactics. I think I was stuck on thinking about where I'd bivvy elsewhere en-route, given the weather and the realisation I'd be a half to a full day slower given the forecasted gales.
Thank god for the Deschutes. Totally dry inside! I was up and off sharp as the midges were out, then north into a brightening day and a freshening breeze. I felt a bit bleary eyed, given my lack of sleep but figured it would pass as the day progressed. It had been raining as I left but breaks in the cloud and even hints of sun would hopefully mean another day better than forecast. More good news was the Invermoriston community center toilets being open - much nicer than digging a hole whilst the midges got at you.
The climb out of Invermoriston is a brute and the wind was getting fresher and fresher. The trail beyond the road is a gem but it does climb a long way. I was on a serious go slow feeling utterly wabbit with no way of putting more than a token effort into pedaling. That said I made steady progress over the huge climb, noting with amusement Ramon from Spain hanging his cycling kit on a tree to dry just as the days first shower came through. I'd met him the day before and as with all Spaniards I've met, very friendly, a tenacious bike rider and totally unfazed by Scottish weather.
More climbing and no hiding from the wind on the windfarm tracks. I actually really enjoyed the Loch Ma Stack Trail, the rocks distracting me from the gale and the regular showers, now coming in every 10 minutes or so. As Alan had left that morning he said he was heading for the Cannich Campsite Cafe for breakfast. I'd been thinking of just bashing on as I had plenty of food on board to get me to Contin. But when I finally hit the descent I changed all plans. I needed food, caffeine and a rest, in order to recharge my batteries.
Pete and Alan were there (and another guy whose name I've forgotten) so we chatted and checked out the race action (!) The northern reaches of the route, in theory achievable that day, were disappearing into an unreachable distance. This was confirmed on the Struy to Orrin Track. The puddles had reappeared thanks to the rain but were still way low so progress should have been good. But the climb was hard and at times I felt I was crawling.
The sun came and went, I'd my jacket on but left off over trousers as I was boiling over when the sun shone.
All climbs on this route fit the dictionary description of a cycling 'hard climb' - twice as long as you think, always seeming to find the highest bit of terrain to go over and always turning into the wind just when you were wanting a bit of respite, and with always, always, one more bit. If you are on form you can just plough through this but I was not. I kept stopping on the pushes for no reason, just collapsing over the bars. I wasn't shouting or swearing (or crying,) I knew what was happening and I was eating and drinking loads, waiting for the energy dip to pass. But it didn't and when the track turned into the gale I was destroyed. I made the decision I was out then. Always a bad thing but I was out of options. It occurred to me to just stop and sleep but the constant showers (and no hydro bothy) precluded such a move.
Last shot on the route, Orrin dam. Surfs up! My load out was spot on for the weather. About the same, weight wise as '21 and about a kilo heavier than '23. Maybe that's why I was struggling...
I got to Contin eventually and spent ages just sat, eating and drinking. Even Irn Bru didn't work! I was burst. Alan was rightly scathing when I told him I was out. I knew I could recover eventually but the weather for the next day would be worse and suddenly I didn't see the point in going on, enduring a suffer fest for no good reason. I guess this is a consequence of having done the route four times before (including the exceedingly wet 2015 edition) - you've nothing to prove. Others had bailed already so I felt I'd done justice to my attempt and place on the group start. So on with the phone, find digs in nearby Dingwall, pedal off route. Even a descending tarmac road with a tailwind seemed hard work...
Food, beer and a lot of sleep followed, in an amusingly scuzzy 'hotel' not cheap but cheapest available. The next morning was sunny and breezy with some very large clouds around. I had breakfast in Tesco and then headed to Inverness via NCN 1. My legs were still pretty leaden and I was still struggling with the minor hills en-route so I was satisfied yesterday's energy crash wasn't just a blip. At Inverness I went up to Velocity cafe (now re-badged as something else) and loitered there for over an hour, noting the number of bikepackers passing through, probably off on the Badger. Then the bus home. Yes, you can get you bike on all city link services free! I'd booked this the night before as there were no bike spaces on any train service south all day.
My Mum pointed out afterward that I'd researched lots of bail out options and that my heart probably wasn't in this ride even before the start. Right as usual... Getting the bike on the bus was somewhat tricky but the journey south was fine and suddenly I was back home. Next task was to rescue the car so a scenic train ride to Tyndrum the next day followed. It felt a bit odd arriving in Tyndrum again recalling the start 78 hours earlier. Then it was a drive home and that was that. '25 Highland Trail attempt done.
I'd really hoped to get round as a fitting tenth anniversary of my first successful ride. The weather and trail conditions were far worse and the route much harder in 2015, but I was super motivated to do it. Plus it was a lot easier to get digs or bothies, something that is now much trickier so you are generally having to bivvy for every night. Fine in the dryness of 2023 but hard work in the wet. However, I didn't, and whilst a bit disappointed, the trail isn't going anywhere. I've ruminated on doing an ITT for a few years now and I think that my next attempt will be just that, hopefully when the weather is good.
As usual, I've been avidly dotwatching since bailing and it looks like there were a few epics out there. That said the completion rate is pretty high considering what we were up against.
I now need to do a proper bikepacking trip having failed to do this one. Watch this space...
Kit notes:- Deschutes, bora bivvy, tyvek ground sheet, Cumulus 150 quilt, neo air mat, exped pillow with a base layer to sleep in. No stove again. I wore Endura shorts, a base layer and my BB top, knee length sealskins socks, sealskins gloves, goretex gaiters, goretex over trousers and my ever reliable Paramo Quito jacket, now 12 years old and still kept me totally dry. My ageing Shimano goretex boots are done as they leaked and are generally wrecked. I've a new pair but I didn't get round to breaking them in.