A Room with a View

For my April BAM I always try to do a proper trip rather than yet another local woodland excursion, however looking back over the years I rarely succeed at this. So this year wasn't much different although I did get a bit further afield. Given the weather, which was slated to turn wet by the end of the weekend, I really should have done something exciting, involving Ben Alder or the Cairngorms. However as usual, I couldn't be bothered loading up the car and heading north, doubtless along with most of the population of Central Scotland, it being the Easter holidays. I did scope a route around Perthshire but this generally involves a fair bit of road riding or else another drive to some suitable start point. So in the end, the Ochills it was, however given the fab forecast I figured on something a bit more interesting than my usual woodland retreat.

This involved one of the many lengthy climbs to the higher summits, from Glen Quey up an Ochills standard grassy and tussocky track. This was pushed in it's entirety however the effort is always worth it, and this evening more so as the view West, to the hills I'd pedaled through the previous weekend, was stunning as the sun set. After some thought I kept on to Tarmangie Hill, stood on it's summit contemplating the view and then retreated to the Sitka Spruce tree I'd kipped under in January 2020, now lying on its side, and settled on a level spot just below it.

Bivvy bag only! I'd just re-read Ron Farmer's 'The Book of the Bivvy' so the inspiration from that and the zero percent chance of rain across three weather forecasts led me to drag it out.

People talk about scoring a room with a view when booking a hotel, well this view would be hard to beat anywhere and cost not a penny. The lumps and bumps are tree pits as this whole hillside is to be planted. I suspect it will be more sitka as they have been planting much of the Ochills with them in recent years, all part of the carbon credit scam which everyone seems oblivious to. So instead of the species rich grassland of these uplands, they will be turned into yet another sterile mono-culture. Anyway, I set these thoughts aside as I took in the view to the accompaniment of a fine ale. 

The moon was already shining and soon the stars joined in for further panoramic viewing. The temps dropped but not to the hard frosts of the previous week and I'd the heavy quilt with me so was plenty warm.

Book reading followed along with some fine whisky as I relaxed in my eerie. It's a funny feeling knowing you are very likely the only person in the whole range of hills and everyone else would be stuck in front of the dross on TV. 

A sound sleep followed, waking at first light, then again to the dawn chorus in the tree and finally at 8.30 as the sun was now beating down. I had a leisurely breakfast and spread out the quilt to dry. All my stuff lay around me, again making me wonder how you finesse a bivvy bag only sleep if it's raining, without everything getting wet. Answer? You don't...

So now what? As many trails as possible to cash in on the dry conditions. I headed West to Cleuch for more views although it was pretty hazy so I left sharpish on the long descent to the upper Glen Devon res. On a whim I carried on into Glen Bee but up to the low bump of Kinpauch Hill. Off this there is a fine single track descent which is a narrow rocky slot in places, a rarity in these hills and good practice for the forthcoming Highland Trail....

Soft focus looking down Glen Bee.

Auchterarder Co-op once again provided an early lunch but sat out in warm sun rather than the damp cold of February. Then more trails up to Corb, round Stronachie Forest and a finish with Glen Devon forest and the usual route home.

Total distance was 106k with a creditable 2700m of climbing, almost in BB territory! My only aches were from wrists. I'd taken the near sacrilegious step of ditching the loop bars from the Jones as I wanted something wider. I'd a pair of Ritchey Kyotes lying around so fitted these on a short stem robbed from the ICT. These worked really well on the steppy descents but seem to cause an inordinate amount of wrist pain in the last couple of hours. Back to the loops then...

So, May next. I might try to get away for Bank Holiday weekend, otherwise it will be more Highland Trail bivvies! 

Way out West

April has always been one of my favourite months as you quite often get fine weather but it's too early for the dreaded midge. April spring skiing is also a particularly fine thing to do but, alas we've not had a suitable winter for this since 2020 and we were all locked in our basements that year. This year, April has been fab (so far) after a winter of very odd weather. Instead of the binary mix of south westerly gales and rain, or north easterly icy blasts and snow, we had many weeks of calm, cold conditions but little precipitation, rain or snow. Thanks to the temperature spikes our winters are seeing more of these days, there was no build up of snow that might have led to some truly wonderful spring skiing. Instead the hills were bare and various ptarmigan and mountain hares wandered around looking mightily conspicuous in their winter coats.

Last weekend ended up being a pearler though. We were slated for our bi-annual trip to Lochgoilhead in Argyll to do more temperate rainforest restoration that has now been going for 25 years. We've only done a couple of dozen acres which is very little in the grand scheme of things but it's been immensely satisfying work. We've had a few ups and downs over the years and the future isn't looking so good for this project as the local group are slowly retiring or disappearing with no new blood coming up. We are also getting older and the work harder as the trees get bigger!

Anyway, given the weather, I decided to cycle up and back for a change with my mate Dave kindly agreeing to take my stuff across, including beer. I'd already booked the days off on the off chance so when the weather set fair, I was well chuffed.

After some rumination, I stuck to a fairly tried and tested route similar to one used on a tour I did in 2021, but with a few variations. I was away by 9am sharp, some low cloud around and a stiff, cold wind blowing me west. Out to Callander by one of a few variations (Hillfoots, Bridge of Allan, Dunblane, Doune) getting there in record time. At this point I was thinking I might get to the outdoor centre too early but figured I could laze around plenty if so, given the strengthening sun and rising temps.

The Venechar cycleway was pleasingly deserted and on a whim I tried to get up a singletrack short cut I've been meaning to do for a while. It was still somewhat soggy in places, causing me to curse my decision to leave off mudguards (there would be more of this later) and as usual, I should have done it down rather than up but it got me to a new view of Loch Drunkie:

Stormy looking pretty racy sans mudguards. I would regret this later....

At first the forest drive was empty and I wondered if it hadn't open to vehicles yet. Whereupon four cars appeared in quick succession, all of which seemed surprised to see a cyclist coming towards them. I wish they would shut this down as it's a pest! You can miss a chunk out on a better surface and after this I was soon onto the cycleway to Aberfoyle and a much needed Lunch as breakfast was now 4 hours ago.

The sun was beating down as I made my way through QE forest. Height is made in fits and starts until you hit the road for the final pull. The Argyll Highlands were revealed as I crested the rise. What a fab feeling knowing that soon I would be right amongst them. 

On the backroad route the NCN follows. I figured that Balloch Country Park would be mobbed so went with an alternative into the back of the town. This involved a fairly rough trail but it was short lived and shaved a few miles off. As expected Balloch was crowded so I scooted right on through and onto the Lomond cycleway.

It was coming up to three so I had plenty of time in hand. I'd be returning by the Lomond cycleway in any case so figured the 3 lochs way would be more fun. Up into Glen Fruin, making height all the time, then finally onto the track that traces a line above the naval base. Yet another powerline replacement scheme was in progress (the whole of Scotland is getting done, apparently) and the track had been re-constructed. Most of it was super smooth but several large puddles from the mega dump trucks using it again made me curse my mudguardless bike!

More sunshine, and the view south.

Pullman coaches on the West highland line.

At the Glen Douglas road I could have descended to the A814 for the last few miles to Arrochar, but the sun, the desire to avoid all road traffic and the 'Arrochar 4.5k' sign led me on. I know this section well and it's pretty rough with a substantial climb then a descent in a series of fits and starts, some of which is pretty steep.

The high point, the Cobbler in all it's glory.

I got down the substantially washed out track in fine style at a very low speed, only to wash the front out on the edge of a rut which dumped me on the ground. Leg and forks were a bit grazed but no harm done...

Then more entertainment on the steep and steppy single track to the town. Fortuitously, this took me pretty much to the coffee kiosk where I figured a brew would be just the thing as I was feeling a bit weary after all that excitement and a large climb lay between me and ride end. Then I saw the pizza menu! I'd already rushed to jump in ahead of a couple exiting a parked car who would doubtless procrastinate over what to have, so when the person serving stated the pizza would be 10-15mins I was well happy. I'm not racing but I still like to minimise unnecessary delay.

So I sat in the sun, viewing the hills and feeding my face. What could be better. Soon enough it was time to go. I grabbed a pie and a few snacks for post ride recovery purposes then set off along the A83, using the footway and a section of the old road past a former torpedo testing station. This used to be fairly intact and should have been either done up as a museum or flattened. In the event neither was done, thanks to the MOD abandoning it's responsibilities yet again, then inevitably someone set fire to it so all that remains is a dilapidated shell that no-one seems willing to do anything about. Hey ho, I'd a big hill to climb.

And what a climb, at the end of a long day. Legs were more or less still functioning and the pizza was starting to kick in so I ground my way up with only token grumbles. You get a good view of the main road and the large queues waiting at the give and take past the landslip defenses which is always nice. 

No sign of the avalanche shed construction yet but speaking of landslips, a sign at the top of the hill proclaimed the track down to Loch Goilhead was shut due to a landslip. 'Men at Work' and 'Construction Site' signs led me to figure I could probably get through. The road down the glen would have been fine but you get a fair bit of traffic on it on a Friday evening so the track was my preference. Of course, the monster landslip had been fixed and most of the track work complete with several large pieces of machinery parked up for the weekend. So why couldn't someone knock down the closed signs then? After my slip earlier I was keen not to do a proper job and the track surface was proper marbles so my pace downwards wasn't much faster than on the climb. Soon enough I was back on the road however, and pedaling the final couple of miles to my destination. Total distance 105 miles in 9hrs 40 minutes so a grand day out by any measure!

After a modest amount of recovery time, beer followed and much good cheer. Then further work on our nice bit of woodland. The extreme dryness meant no fires but we got a good amount of work done with several vast piles of brash created which we will duly burn in November.

Homeward bound then! I'd already decided I was going to do it in a oner on the Sunday afternoon / evening. The direct route takes you back through the Campsies using what is also a familiar route. This works out at about 85 miles and I figured the last three hours or so would be in the dark. So I left the site at 3, wandered back to the centre and got myself organised, departing at 4, the sun splitting the sky. 

Back over the big bump and more steady riding down Glen Croe. At Arrochar I took a punt on the 3 Lochs Way path to Tarbert which involved a very large climb and several fallen trees. Oh well, it's better than the A83 (or specifically its footway) and once on the Loch Lomond cycleway I put the hammer down.

Oh dear. I made good progress but every single parking layby was chocker block and the sections through the various villages were mobbed. Worse, on two occasions I came across cars parked totally blocking the cycleway, well away from the parking areas. Yes it was too much trouble for people to cart their stuff from the car park to their picnic spot so they drove there instead and clearly gave no thought to anyone trying to get down the path by wheelchair, pram or bike. The second car was being loaded by a young woman so I made my view clear of her poor parking. Inevitably she responded with a load of 'what's your problem' type of stuff indicating that, like many others, she sees no issue with driving or parking her car however she pleases. My tolerance for this has dropped off a cliff in recent years....

Anyway, the sections on the old road not accessible by car were fab and I got my revenge on the shared use path alongside the road by cruising past about 200 cars queued back from the Balloch roundabout.

Balloch was chaos so I blasted through toot sweet heading for my short cut of Friday. Cruising along the dead end wee road was a massive relief after all that!

Last look back to the Loch Lomond hills. 

A new trail followed on what looked like the old road and part of the John Muir Way and something called the Finnich Trail. Apart from a few soggy bits it was a good 'un so adds another thread to my east / west routes. I diverted to Kilearn Co-op for water and caffeine but had enough food from the lunch left overs to see me through.

So another race against the dark. Fortunately the stiff easterly of Friday was just a breeze. Darkness fell eventually as I approached the Carron res. I had one last food stop and then did the final bit of climbing as the temps dropped. It was quite strange cresting this final climb as suddenly, the lights of the Forth valley were laid before me, the fab scenery of Arrochar gone but the dim lines of the Ochills to my left a welcome home. Much chills on the descent and more layers added then the back road route to the Kincardine Bridge, a bit of cerebral confusion on the best route from here to home, and then home at just after 11, exactly 7 hours from departure.

Fair to say I was chuffed with this as I'd thought I might still be going by midnight. A zero percent beer seemed appropriate to recover and celebrate, followed by 10 hours sleep and a lazy morning eating and resting further.

So what a cracking weekend and something I'll try and do again. No bivvy though so I need to get out this weekend or else BAM is a bust!