Last year I'd allowed myself to be persuaded to attend a motorcycle rally / festival - the 'Adventure Bike Festival,' that is, a large gathering of middle aged blokes on their large 'off road' motorcycles. Friends who'd persuaded me also convinced me to join them on a tour of Wales afterwards. So I'd booked a fortnight off work, which left the first weekend free to do some bike riding. Lo and behold, a heatwave was also been touted for this weekend so plans were made. Of course the weather chopped and changed with thunderstorms being mooted at one point. In the end, it looked like a few showers would be around Friday and Saturday, with Sunday looking rather damp. So I figured on a Cairngorms tour with an extra bit to get up to my pals place in Speyside for a BBQ on the Saturday night.
I've done this route with variations more times than I can recall, however in terms of smiles per mile, it scores very highly, particularly if you get the weather right. I got to Blair Atholl just as a very heavy shower came on, but it lasted all of one minute before the sun re-appeared. After a fish tea and a final ruminate on which way I should go round (i.e. the normal way up the Gaik, or in reverse up Glen Tilt) I headed up Glen Tilt, solely due to it looking sunnier east rather than north. That said, it's been a few years since I'd done it this way and I felt I needed to add at least some variation into the proceedings.
The trundle up the glen was a joy - in warm sunshine and a gentle breeze to push me along and keep the midges at bay when I stopped to appreciate the view. I paused at the Tarf water bridge for a beer ahead of the singletrack climb. Most people advise going east to west so it's a downhill but it's actually fun either way. I got up most of it, despite being SS and emerged at the watershed at half 8.
I'd been a bit wary of the midge situation, despite a level one being forecast but my pauses had been midge free so far. Bivvy-wise I thought of making my way up one of the hills near to the Tilt watershed to minimise the chances of an encounter, but in the end I went with Bynack lodge as there was no one else to be seen. Maybe they were all in the Red Bothy!
This is an ace camping spot. Sure enough the midges were about but I managed to set up and get in the bag midge free. I tried out my 'flextail' bug killer but as far as I could tell, it didn't work. In view of the forecast I went tarp free and after a dram or four slept soundly until first light.
Somewhat murky, and a bit damp thanks to a heavy dew. I slept for another hour but decided to get going just after 6 as I had a fair ways to go and would hopefully get up the first climbs of the day before the heat.
Breakfast was procured at Greens (Nee the Co-op) in Braemar, courtesy of a Fisher and Donaldsons steak and haggis pie, followed by a fudge custard donut. I nearly went with the coffee tower but I always end up with most of it in my beard!
So onwards and upwards into clearing skies and hot sun. I faffed to find the new 'shared use' path that was finished last year but, although it does miss the A93 out to Invercauld, starts in the middle of a load of steep and rooty singletrack.
The Cullardoch climb followed and I paused at the top to dry out quilt and bivvy bag. They were only a bit damp but the hot sun and breeze made for ideal drying conditions, utilising some odd wire mesh baskets covering patches of heather. Not entirely sure what this is meant to be doing. The view was fab and I noted the only snow visible anywhere - two bits on the south end of Ben Avon. Quite how these had survived is a mystery!
Then it was the usual route south to Tomintoul. I saw many other bikepackers, one with a dog and trailer, others on the usual mix of machines. Best of all, I spied an Eagle floating above the hillside opposite. More food at the Firestation cafe in TT followed and texts with the friends I was staying with that night indicated they were heading up to do a lap of the Glenlivet trails. I figured on joining them but had an hour to kill so ground up the Speyside Way climb up Carn Daimh and hit the trails off this, looping back round to the start and the cafe. I found one 'off piste' bit which was nice and noodly but the made stuff was the usual, i.e. it would be fun on the gravel bike but easy on the Jones, bags and all.
After a cold coke (it was now roasting) Rob, Iona and Alex appeared and we rode the trails back round to my high point of an hour ago. It was fun riding with the others and I guess this is where such places score as there is no challenge required, you can just have a blast and a laugh.
We got back up to Cairn Daimh again and I left them to finish the loop, descending off the SSW back to the road for a leisurely trundle to their place. A mighty fine BBQ followed and much chit chat, beer and good cheer.
The next day was still breezy with rain a coming. I blagged a lift to Nethybridge (steadfastly not taking up an offer of a lift back to Blair Atholl) and headed south via the standard Cairngorms tour / loop route. Again, no challenge but lots of good riding on bone dry trails.
I spied this sign on Ryvoan pass. Just as I finished reading it, I heard a heavy tread and the crack of branches and there, right behind me, was the Capercaillie!! Or was it the Jaberwockie...
Needless to say it was actually nowhere to be seen, but this is the first time I've seen this tactic to keep people away from them. The ride south was fab as usual, with very few people about and lots more dry trails.
I did think of an extra loop to bag Ben Alder and another night out but the weather to the west looked decidedly ropy. So far I'd caught one heavy shower whilst passing by Loch Morlich requiring jacket on, plus a few sprinkles came and went. But straight south looked a better bet. I diverted to Kingussie for one last weather check and a Co-op meal deal, and decided that the Gaik it was. It was still pretty breezy but I made it all the way up the Glen only needing to don jacket once.
I do like this trail. Scores for this pass is 17 times, 20 up and down Glen Tilt! I think I need to ride somewhere else for a change.
Oh bloody hell. This pipe bridge has been here for many, many years. In 2012 the river ploughed through the ground I'm stood on and the bridge was bypassed, remaining redundant until 2020. This led to a lot of troublesome river crossings here, particularly in 2014 post storm Bertha. In 2020 the estate restored the river to it's original line under the pipe bridge and did a lot of work with very large rocks and gabions. This has all been to no avail. Worse, the pipe bridge a k downstream was also wrecked (but just passable) and it had survived all the 2012 storms, Storm Bertha and Frank. The thing is, when I was here a year ago, all was well and I couldn't recall any storms over the incredibly dry winter. On reviewing my own weather data and asking a few friends, it does look like there was a big rain storm in January, during one of the many temperature spikes and on dry ground so I guess this must have done it. Oh well, we'll wait and see what the estate does this time...
Anyway, I rolled down the glen and back along the cycleway, reflecting on a fab day and weekends bike ride. So motorcycling next and then it's July. Once again, the year is racing by!