Moray Meanderings

The "Moray Triangle" is now so well known that someone should publish the route on bikepacking.com. I'll not bother as the GPX from this week's ride round this route resembles a dropped plate of spaghetti...

I didn't actually mean to do it. Inspired by Jimmy's and Sean's escapades on the Badger Divide, I hatched a plan to pedal along to Callander and then do the Badger route up to Schneckie, cut east on a route following various tracks and trails (roughly the Pictish trail route) then head south by some suitable means. However the weather looked horrible for the Saturday evening and Sunday and as I've done pretty much all of the BD route this seemed a bit pointless. Up east looked drier and my new gravel bolide was duly contemplated for such an undertaking. But I've kind of done that and whilst it is very pleasant, I was fancying something a bit more interesting, riding wise. So I duly rode round the procrastination loop a few times before taking the radical step of going onto the Scotrail website and seeing where I could get to on the Saturday. Answer? Up the Inverness line. Aviemore seemed a good bet so I coughed up and did a map re-appraisal.

The train journey went OK after a leisurely pedal down to Inverkeithing. Up to Perth took an eternity as it stops at every station and I had to wait 40 minutes for the schneckie train. This was rammed so a bit of creativity was needed to wedge the Jones in amongst a bunch of carbon gravel bikes with minimalist bags on. I found a seat next to the train drunk who was cheery enough although he did cause a certain amount of carriage embarrassment when his girlfriend phoned and he answered on speakerphone allowing us all to hear about his domestic problems...

Departing the train at Aviemore was a relief for about 1 minute. The entire town was rammed with extremely large motorbikes and their extremely large owners. Oh gawd it was 'Thunder in the Glens' the Harley Owners Group rally that takes place every year up here. I'd my heart set on a pint in the Bridge Inn but it was queued out the door. There was a terrible band playing 'rock' dross and there were far too many people strutting around wearing leather waist coats. Grumbling mightily and resisting the temptation to shout "you are all *******" I got out of there fast. Then I berated myself for such negative thoughts as this lot were no worse than us lot in a way and people being into stuff, whatever that stuff may be, is a Good Thing. I prefer the minimalism of my Triumph, however. Then I recalled my last encounter with this rally which was in August 2014 when I pitched up on my successful Cairngorms loop Ride, in fact my first successful ITT. 10 years ago to the day!

The chippy at Dalfaber is a good 'un and Hog free so I grabbed a fish supper and sat under the next door Co-op awning scoffing it whilst a few sprinkles came through. The forecast for up here was also not that great but after grabbing a few supplies at the Co-op and getting going properly, the sun did shine.

On the trail at last, NCN 7 north, the relief of leaving all behind boiling off me like steam. I built this route in 1998 and it's survived the test of time. Part of the same scheme was improving a track over the hill from Boat of Garten to Carrbridge. This has now been abandoned by Sustrans as the NCN, alas. Instead you have to use the not that quiet B road. Last year, Transport Scotland consulted on sorting this route out but nothing has materialised on the ground yet. I suspect the consultants fees for prepping the options and doing the consultation will have been several times what it cost to do up the track over the hill.... 

Right, enough of all that, l'm on holiday! And a new trail!! This was via the wee road east then north from Carrbridge and up into the hills north of the A938. I'd tried to do this track a few years ago from the north but couldn't find it on the GPS as it wasn't shown on my 2010 version of the maps. Of course I conveniently forgot this fact today, until I was heading into the wilderness and trying to fathom turns. According to the GPS I was in the middle of a blank nothingness. Fortunately, and for the first time, my OS app on the phone worked and I was able to work out where to go.

A good 'un!

This eventually spat me out on the Lochindorb road and thence onto the Dava way. Now I'd figured on dossing in the wee hut about halfway along the route and as it was after 8, I was ready for a bivvy. So I cruised along with the help of a stiff breeze and plenty of sunshine on high. I passed an old brick built hut with its window out and a fair bit of muck on the floor, and figured this would be plan B. I got to the Halfway hut a few minutes later only to discover someone else in residence! Bugger. He was cheery enough and even offered to shuffle over to let me in but it's really only a one person hut (the sign on the wall notes "This is not a bothy!") Now what. It would probably rain in the night so a shed would be handy. Plus I was done for the day and didn't fancy yet another mad thrash trying to find a decent bivvy spot before it got dark. Right then, back to the alternate shed.

This is scuzzy - the window is out and the floor covered in muck. That said, although the door was open, there was no evidence of the sheep having been in, or the usual smell of it having been used as a toilet. I swept as much of the dirt up as possible with a bit of heather, wondered if I should just pitch the tarp up next to it, then got my gear out and sat out in the cool breeze having a beer and contemplating my journey to this point. As the sun set, coolness drove me inside and into my bag. Whisky helped me pass the hour to bed time and a sound sleep followed.

The far more salubrious halfway hut. Actually a nice little interpretation center with info about the history of the rail line and area.

The next morning dawned with clear blue skies. After a quick pack up I departed in search of nice trails and breakfast. The Dava way took me into the woods around the mighty river Findhorn where I picked up the fab riverside trail. This was empty at the early hour and I duly hooned it big style down to the Logie Steading cafe for breakfast, my head louping after too much whisky the night before. A large amount of food and tea followed, then.... more ace riverside trails. I rode back up the road a ways and crossed the river in search of more singletrack on the west bank. It's all a hoot and well worth spending some time here.

Some of the trails are quite precipitous!

The Findhorn is pretty spectacular as rivers go with a lot of its course in this monster gorge. I'd love to see it in spate!

Not a bivvy spot as it was locked - actually one of several well used fishing huts. The porch offers some shelter however!

I exited the trails to check out Darnaway forest and another possible shed, which turned out to be a water tank.... It's raised up above the ground so you could kip under it, in a pinch. There then followed an excess of road riding on NCN 1 to Nairn and a fine harbourside cafe. An American chap was asking after my bike so we chatted about various outdoor adventures and I gave him some shouts about stuff to do hereabouts.

The sea.

So off we go on the Moray Coastal Trail. After a bit of faffing through the dunes I picked up an easy trail into Culbin forest. There is a ton of single track in here so I tried to bag as much as I could. On emerging onto the beach I noted a large amount of grey cloud incoming. After the sunny start, it had steadily clouded over so this looked like rain on the way, contrary to any weather forecast I had seen to that point. Hey ho....

Sure enough, a wee while later the drizzle started. I'd originally planned to bash along the trail past Roselisle forest and Burghead, maybe getting to Lossie woods for a bivvy. But the trail between Hopeman and Lossie is a bit slow going through the dunes and I'd rather do this in nice weather. I'd an inkling it would dry up later so I figured that the best way to manage the rain was to stick to woods and ride pretty much every track I could find and remember from previous visits.

This edifice is smack in the middle of the forest. It's not marked on any maps but offers a fine view of the Moray Firth, the Northern Hills and the rain.

The somewhat monochrome view, thanks to the gloomy weather. It is one of the appeals of the coastline hereabouts - around you it's all woodland and rich farmland, but the distant panorama of high hills reminds you that you are in the heart of the Highlands.

More wanderings took me to the far eastern edge of the Forest. I can see the pub from here! This is the end of a track that used to go onto the beach, erosion has done it's work so there is a now a 20 foot drop. If you ever cruise along the beach to this point, beware of the tide as it comes in mighty quick. A few years ago we nearly got caught out by this, heading for this track. We had to back track sharpish to find a spot to get off the beach!

This lot seemed to be making an awful meal of rigging their boat. A block on the map revealed itself as a well secured boat shed which would not be a bivvy spot as even if you could get in, the chances are you'd end up floating....

Despite it coming and going, the rain never really got that heavy and when I finally exited the forest, the horizon did indeed look to be clearing. I cruised along more back roads that NCN 1 follows, past Benromach Distillery and out along the River Findhorn once more to Findhorn itself. I'm told the Findhorn Foundation is in financial difficulties so maybe the hippy camp will have to up sticks and depart. There was no real evidence of this on the ground though and a few more luxury 'eco' homes seemed to have appeared. On approach, the rain did actually get quite heavy, despite the horizon now being all clear. So of course I had to go to the pub to sit it out. In fact I ended up eating here (£21 for an average burger and chips and a pint) whilst contemplating my onward moves and digs.

Right, I'll head to Burghead, grab some evening snacks and a beer or three from the Co-op and then head back into the woods for a bivvy. This worked incredibly well, as I bagged as much of the fab singletrack as I could remember, scoped out a spot, grabbed beers, headed back and got settled in.

All clear on the trail approaching Roseisle Forest.

Whilst sat on the loo earlier that day, I noted a tick crawling across my leg. It must have got caught up in my shorts or something as it didn't look like it had sank its teeth into me. I was somewhat wary of more in my woodland retreat but the only insects I noted were devils coachman beetles, which are rather large and tend to curl their abdomens up, scorpion like, which is a bit alarming. Anyway, a very pleasant evening ensued, followed by a sound sleep.

I was up and away early, back to the Co-op in Burghead for breakfast. Oh joy of joys, they had a hot food counter with bacon and sausages - one of each in a roll please! Better still, I say out on the sea front eating this, contemplating a fine sunny morning.

So off we go. To Hopeman, the coastal trail is a cycleway but beyond here it gets more interesting. A bit of heaving up some steps leads you to a lovely gravel singletrack which twists and turns its way long the top of the low cliffs.

The trail, and more fab views north, with the ever present sea a fine backdrop. Then it got much better (after getting a bit worse) A few k short of Lossiemouth. The nice path dumps you onto the beach and the high tide route is a somewhat overgrown and vague line through the dunes. I'd struggled with this section the last time I did this route, got lost and ended up in the adjacent golf course. Today the tide was well out, so I hit the beach and cruised easily along the sand, all the way to Lossie. 

On the beach

Hard to tell what this was - A Minke whale, I suspect. I'm glad I approached it upwind as after taking this pic and riding off, the smell was appalling...

At Lossie, I indulged in more cafe culture having a nice and expensive cappuccino on the harbourside, sat out in the sun, the sun!

This is a new bridge put in a few years ago to replace the old wooden footbridge across the bay. If you can't ride the beach, you have to ride out of the town on the road and get into Lossie forest further along. Today I rolled off the bridge, onto the sand and fairly flew along the beach, finally leaving it as the tide was coming in and the shingle a bit hard going. 

A short push up over the shingle bar got me onto a rough trail along the edge of the forest.

Gun emplacements are dotted along the coast, along with miles of tank stoppers. Looks like a certain amount of anarchy goes on here, given the graffiti, fire sites and much evidence of use by motocross bikes. They would make a good bivvy spot, but probably not on a weekend...

Finally I emerged at Kingston, did a nice trail to Garmouth and then joined NCN 1 at the fine old railway bridge. From here it was all on the Speyside way up to my friends place at Blacksboat. I should have scoped out a route through Ordiqueish and Ben Aigen forests but ended up just following the SSW.

Oh dear, looks like the Spey is changing it's path. hopefully the route can be moved inland a bit.

Another great old railway bridge. This is actually the main Inverness to Aberdeen line.

Looking back down the Spey to Fochabers and Garmouth.

After spending two days helping my mate Rob stapling tyvek to his new steading roof, I bottled a ride home as the weather was looking a bit damp. I've done this a few times now so saw no need to do it in the rain. Instead I had an easy pedal to Aviemore by various means and then trained it down to Gleneagles, finishing with a very damp passage of the Ochills.

Total distance was 220 miles. The 'triangle' is defo worth doing and you can throw in a few variations to add interest. So a good trip for my August Bivvy. September next but Dad is having another crisis so not sure how it will pan out...

July BAM

Actually two bivvies this month, but they were near identical...

I'd hatched a plan to do some exploring of a few trails around Perthshire, all within a reasonable ride from the house, i.e do-able in a weekend. For the most part it would be fairly benign with only a crossing of a large moor between Glen Lednock and Glen Almond offering any significant challenge.

The first attempt took place a couple of weekends ago in the face of a pretty good forecast. I figured on getting going Friday evening to get some of the miles in, bivvying in the woods off the Dunning road, again.

I got there in good time, the sun shining into my spot as it sunk towards the horizon. Of concern were a few midges about but I was able to get pitched up without too much running around and dived straight into the bivvy bag to conclude a slightly less fraught week (rail line open so back to business as usual) with a dram and a beer.

Plenty of sleep followed and a gentle breeze kept the winged menaces at bay as I made a cuppa and contemplated my onward moves. It was a bit overcast and rain was in the forecast but nothing to drastic. 

Nice morning view in any case...

I shared breakfast with this elderly Robin (lots of grey feathers!) who was quite friendly.

They appear to be replacing the blades / hub on this turbine. This windfarm hasn't been up to much - two have gone on fire and there is always at least one out of action....

On packing up, I noted the absence of any form of waterproof jacket in my kit. Given how routine this all is, these days, I was somewhat miffed. And out of options. I couldn't contemplate a ride without it as I had no other layers and I wasn't going to try to buy one en-route as I have enough already!

So much for that then. I did at least manage to do a decent ride on the way home so the trip wasn't all wasted. Later I went for a run on the motorbike around the area I'd hope to get to cycling and only caught one sprinkle of rain in the early evening....

Attempt number 2 took place the following weekend. I'd got the Friday off so in theory could extend the trip. Of course the weather wasn't looking too good Friday or Saturday and it was also looking pretty horrible for the Thursday evening. However on getting home from work, the heavy showers hadn't materialised and still weren't evident after tea. The bike was nearly ready to go so I threw the rest of my gear on it (waterproofs definitely included) and headed out. As expected a lot of large clouds suddenly appeared. A half mile out of the village the roads were awash, and the rain came and went. I nearly threw it at that point but much blue sky following the clouds led me on. And it did indeed clear up, the stiff breeze kept the midges at bay and I had another pleasant evening, this time in the opulent luxury of the Deschutes.

The following morning revealed much cloud and a stiff, cool breeze. Whilst I had all my gear I was lacking motivation somewhat. I figured on grabbing breakfast in Auchterarder where I would review forecasts and route and see what was what. This was via one of the old drove roads that cross the hills, now upgraded to a motorway standard forest road, in view of the whole area being planted. The only cafe open looked a bit upmarket so Co-op breakfast it was, actually sat out in the sun, albeit with an occasional sprinkle of drizzle. 

The forecast fueled my lack of motivation with downpours being predicted for the whole area all afternoon and evening. I think a lot of my problem is that being so close to this area, I can be choosy when I visit it, so schlepping though the rain seemed like a waste of a trip. Saturday and Sunday were looking better so I'd head home and do something on those days. By way of penance I threw in a few fearsome climbs via another old drove road and a couple of long pushes. The rain actually held off until the last half hour, whereupon it did indeed rain heavily on and off for most of the afternoon.

Anyway Saturday ended up being mostly sunny and Sunday a roaster. No overnighter, just a nice ride round various North Fife trails and a good walk.

Very sunny over the Lomonds, for a change

Loch Leven and the Cleish hills, I took this photo to try to capture the kestrel hovering on the right hand side then noted the other hovering thing at the top left! Kes aces it, I think...

Centuries and double centuries

Riding a hundred miles on a bike in a day still has something of a mystique amongst (road) cyclists. For a bikepacker, the off-road century is a must-do thing, and much harder. Doing five and a half in a row even more so! Despite various escapades in Scotland and Wales on various ITT's, many over a 100 miles, a road / gravel century is still something I like to do, always starting from the house using one of five circuits I've figured out over the years. All are largely on back roads, cycleways and the odd easy trail. The appeal is the amount of ground you can cover and the changing landscapes as you progress round the route. 

So far this year I've done three of them (one twice) as well as a bonus century riding south the other week. Non cyclists still seem to regard this as a huge distance to cycle but compared to the BB300, it's a straightforward undertaking. I'm at the point where I can just gather my gear together, jump on the bike and knock one out with little thought, using whatever of my routes the wind favours. It's all in the pacing, something I've got off to a fine art. And eating of course!

A few years ago I upped the ante and did a double century on a fab route up to and round Loch Rannoch then back again. I'd thought to repeat the route this year at some point and midsummer seemed the perfect opportunity. At one point I was going to do the 'run to the sun' ride from Carlisle to Edinburgh. But logistics to get there were a hassle and riding down would involve a lot of rainy headwinds. My usual midsummer overnighter also got canned due to the aforementioned rain - I've been rained on enough this year! So a day ride it was. A variation taking in the roads and hills east of the Tay valley was considered but this would lead me back though Perth. The nice thing with the route I did in '21 was that the last fifty-odd miles were all on quiet back roads, well off tourist routes and largely traffic free. This would be my route. 

So off we go. As I had breakfast the sun was already shining so I even slathered on sun tan cream in the face of a very sunny forecast. The wind was of mild concern as it was from the west which might throw a few headwinds at me at inconvenient points. But the route has a few bail out options so I figured to get going and see what happened.

A promising start - the Trossach hills in all their sunny glory. However the forecasted 'breeze' was a stiff wind. The route west is fairly sheltered though so it was of little issue at this stage.

At Callander the sun beat down and I stripped off arm warmers and gillet. Twenty odd miles of NCN 7 followed and I was a shade concerned about the amount of cloud around when I hit my first stopping point at the Killin Co-op. The next thing I new a fine dreich blew in and the sky darkened. Of course I'd not got a proper waterproof with me, on the strength of (two) weather forecasts.... It blew through quickly enough and as I left (Arm warmers and gillet back on) I ignored bail out number one (south Loch Tay road - 145 miles) and cracked on into a stiff breeze up Glen Lochay. The pubil climb took me away from a lot more murk looking west and a few more sprinkles came in but I was hopeful it would brighten up away from the westernmost point of the route.  

23 tailwind and gravity assisted miles down Glen Lyon revived me somewhat. I was not really feeling weary, just aware of the efforts I was putting in to that point, thanks to the wind. The sun re-appeared and thoughts of bail out number 2 (straight down to Ballinluig on NCN 7 - 165 miles) evaporated.

Even the climb out of Strath Tay didn't put me off as I hoofed up it in fine style, noting this was where I'd had a big energy dip the last time. The bright skies persisted on the Schiehallion road, this pointy peak cloud free. Better yet the feared headwind on this road wasn't, thanks to the vagaries of the terrain. I passed halfway here and noted with concern I was a half hour later than when I'd done the route in 2021, despite leaving the house 25 minutes earlier. I had 3 hours extra daylight however!

At this point you pass within half a mile of the return from the circuit of Loch Rannoch. Missing this would be the last bail out - 175 miles. But looking west revealed a generally brighter prospect than earlier, so on we go, commitment made.

Being fairly conical, Schiehallion was used by Nevil Maskelyne to estimate the weight of the earth in 1774. A few goes had been made at this but as Schiehallion is isolated from other hills the gravitational effect of it would not be skewed by other large lumps. To this point things were going well - the headwind heading west up the south road had largely been blocked by the woods. Plus I saw precisely no-one other than a couple of cars and camper vans. On the north road I commenced another lengthy tail wind leg - 31 miles this time - passing 200k on the way. As I'd turned the corner at the top end of the Loch I felt a certain liberation - all I had to do was ride home by whatever means...

The roadside laybys were full up - more campers than I'd seen when I was last here. It seemed a little more restrained than the anarchy that had developed here in the '90's but I dread to think of the mess being left behind. A few cars were around as people raced for the last spots, which I hoped to leave behind on the fine Loch Tummel road. This too was rammed with campers, every designated car park full and a few others wedged with cars and vans. I did note one had a parking ticket though!

On the final climb of this undulating road I diligently blocked a following camper van. As I crested the rise I glanced back at the drivers frown and disappeared down a fine, twisty descent, outpacing it by a mile. The effort required to do this caused a few grumbles from my legs but I'd successfully moderated my usual mid afternoon low spot by constant snacking. Contact points were OK and a minor twinge from my left knee had receded.

So Pitlochry at last noting I was still around 45 minutes later than my previous ride, so much for the tailwind speeding me up a bit! One final feed and a few things stashed for the final fifty-odd miles. Better still, the sun was still showing it's face and the sheltered route kept the wind off me. This had been of concern earlier as the last 40 miles would be into it. In the event, a combination of high hedges and various twists and turns meant it was of little impediment.

Contemplating the last climb out of Dunning was far worse than doing it. I'd fully recovered from my earlier efforts by now and got up it with only token protest from my 195 mile legs, the light fading and cloud gathering. But whilst there was rain around, I avoided it and finally, at 10.20pm, arrived home.

So the hour I'd lost in the first half of the ride was maintained to the end. I suspect the stiff westerly wind was largely to blame, although my digestive system played a part, needing to visit every loo I passed. That said overall stopped time was an hour and a half which is not much more than the last time. Despite having done such horrors as the BB300, I still felt a large sense of achievement as I cracked a beer and ate food before ten hours of sleep. The large amount of pedaling (as opposed to pedaling and walking) didn't throw up any major aches or pains. The aero bars were a boon and largely why my wrists, shoulders and hands are pain free as I type this. If I do this again, I'll be a bit more selective wind wise. After the last time I speculated about doing a 250 which  may still do at some point, albeit with a snooze somewhere!

KY12 to DL5 (and June BAM)

I was wanting to visit my folks at the start of a 2 week holiday so figured a bike ride down there was the thing to do. In a way it's unfinished business as in 1991, I tried to ride down there from Edinburgh in a oner and failed, largely thanks to a horrible cold but also due to taking the A68/697 which isn't the best way of doing the journey. That said, in 1992 on that years 'Watt Wheelers' midsummer ride, we did end up at Darlington (via Kielder) so I kind of did it back then...

In recent years I've played around with a few route options, west-ish and east-ish, so decided to take an option on both - down through the Borders and then back via Northumberland. As per, the weather forecast was somewhat variable but stiff north westerleys would largely favour me so off we go. I had thought of using the GB duro route for the first bit as I can get to it in 10k from home. But this was a bit out the way and would involve a couple of large dirt road passes, plus the weather suggested east would be dryer than west. So instead I crossed the bridge and headed through Edinburgh via various cycleways, quiet and busy streets. A very weird thing happens sometime after you cross the bridge - people ignore you. So in Fife, or elsewhere, when you pass another cyclist, you both exchange waves, Hi's, salutes or nods. Not in Edinburgh - everyone ignores you. This also applies to peds - on a Fife cycleway, you ting your bell, make sure they are aware of you, ride passed and say cheers, hi, or thanks. In Embra, just blaze past them. If you say 'Cheers' or 'thanks' they give you a funny look (or ignore you as they have headphones in.) I hate this place. A billion teenagers here to see some second rate fake popstar were also successfully avoided....

Anyway, after grinding my way up Lasswade Road I picked up a mighty fine cycleway which was curiously empty. I jumped off it at Loanhead for food sat in the sun and then rejoined it, recalling this was yet another of the many routes I built when I worked for Sustrans, over the Bilston Glen viaduct. It was all in fine condition and carried me onwards to Rosslyn, made famous after that utterly crap book about the holy grail...

Beyond here I linked onto a series of backroads to the hills. This was the route the WW (i.e. the Uni cycling club) used to get to the Borders. I've since been on it a few times on the motorbike but this is the first time cycling for many, many years. The complete lack of traffic was a welcome relief after all that city riding. Then off up the first of the routes proper climbs over the Moorfoots.

Looking back across Midlothian to Embra - quite a nice route all in all. This is on the B709 - a fabulous B road which goes all the way to Langholm. And this was my goal - to ride it in it's entirety, something I'd not actually ever done before. It's a cracker as most of it is largely empty of traffic, and the scenery is very pleasant.

Food was bought and eaten at Innerleithen, which now seems to be jam packed with full bounce e-bikes, the riders of which all seemed to scowl at me. I think they are trying too hard... South of Innerleithen is probably the nicest bit, over another largeish climb, then down through forestry and farm land to Tuishielaw. I stopped in the pub for a pint as I was way ahead of my predicted schedule and already thinking of alternative bivvy spots to a potential tin shed I'd spied on aerial photos. 

A leisurely trundle up the Ettrick water followed. I spied the shed I'd planned to use but the wind had done for it so just as well I wasn't relying on it. There are a couple more nearby as well as Dryfhead and Greensykes bothies, but after a few sprinkles and plenty of big clouds around, the sky had cleared again so I figured a bivvy was the way to go.

I topped out eventually (an easy climb, many hereabouts just make height steadily over many miles) and contemplated what I'd done, and the views.

So off we go, down the Esk valley. Soon enough I came upon Samye Lings Tibetan Monastery. I first encountered this on a clear and crisp February day which seemed appropriate. Seeing such a thing in the warm evening sunshine (or the rain) doesn't. It's been here for many years and has become a Borders institution attracting many rich idiots who have stressed themselves out, and are now seeking enlightened karma. They just need to buy a bike...

Watch out Budda, there's a big snake gonna get ya!

Of course history students will know that Buddism is far from free of hideous violence in the quest for domination, much like all religions.

Soon after you pass the Eskdalemuir Schoolhouse cafe, a fabulous place. I'd checked this out on line as I'd originally figured I'd get Sunday breakfast here, however it was now 6.30pm on Saturday. I knew the cafe would be long shut but the website went on about having a drinks license until 12am... It was a vane hope so imagine my grin when I saw that it was open for a pizza and pasta night! Oh yes, 2 slices and a bottle of ale please!

Some time later, I pedaled off under more dark clouds and an odd spot of rain. I piled into the first bit of woods I encountered and turned the bivvy radar full on. A bit of nosing around found a well sheltered spot in the trees. Up with the tarp and in, 148k done. Relaxation followed but there was an odd midge about so I kept in the bivvy bag.

It rained most of the night but eased off as I nibbled some (cold) breakfast and contemplated my next moves.

An OK spot and the sun was shining on me as I left. More pleasant pedaling followed down the Esk to Langholm. This place was a major disappointment however as nothing was open. I'd hoped for a cafe at least but there was nowt, not even a Co-op which is very odd for such a place. The garage provided a coffee at least and fortunately I had plenty of snacks with me. 

Now I'd left myself an option to add another night into the proceedings taking me into the Yorkshire Dales. But the weather wasn't looking good unless I went east plus I was keen to get to Mum and Dad's that evening. So after (yet again) giving up on the OS app, I fired up OSM and noted various cycle routes which would help me to get to Alston, from where I'd be able to hop over the bump to Teesdale, thence home.

So off again, along more back roads, as used a few times on the motorbike, with a couple of short cuts on some fab single trackers. My heart and stomach was set on a cafe at Greenhead I'd spied on just such a motorbike trip earlier this year. Some time later I arrived, only to find it was also shut on a Sunday!! Fortunately the village hall next door had a farmers market on with tea and coffee.

The wall. There was actually a bit of cycleway up by the road which is impressive. Soon after I left this to drop into Haltwhistle where (thank Hadrian) there was a fab little cafe on the High street. Fried food and tea followed then it was more NCN to Alston. This was (mostly) good but typical NCN - lots of good route but with odd crap bits that spoiled it somewhat.

This viaduct was a belter but someone had extended there garden over the old line beyond it so you had to scramble down some steps and up a steep hill to the main road. Along this for a bit then a steep descent back to 100 yards from the viaduct... Hey ho. Further frustrations came in the form of yet another random puncture - no thorn or glass or nails, just some unknown spike jabbing into the tyre and a spray of sealant. Despite a small hole it wouldn't seal so I had to ram a plug in, which enlarged the hole so the plug didn't, so I had to ram another one in, which didn't seal, etc. etc.

More gravelling followed and a nice back road to Alston. The last time I'd been here on a bike was in 1991 at the end of an epic tour which involved many miles, running out of money and a horrible 100 mile ride east into a headwind to Carlisle YH. The next day I staggered along the A689 (no cycleway in those days) to Alston with no food. On realising I was spent, I put my last 10p into a phone box, phoned my Mum asking to rescue me (pips went before she replied) and collapsed in the town centre rotunda hoping she would come to get me (she did, bless her.) So today, I was in a much better state and grabbed a last snack from the Co-op before the final 40 miles.

This started with the fearsome climb over to Yad Moss, reminiscing over many ski escapades here in my youth. I got up it at a steady SS cadence, looking at blue sky to the east and much cloud to the west, justification for cutting the ride short.

Cross and Dun Fell, much hated by GB Duro riders.

Looking down Teesdale and contemplating nigh on 13 miles of tailwind assisted descent.

One last heave out of Teasdale and then another 10 mile descent to West Auckland and a short hop to Mum and Dad's from there, 167k done.

After a couple of days of hard labour at Mum and Dads, I came home, but in the face of another iffy forecast and the opportunity of a cheap train ticket home I took the easy option of a train from Darlo to Embra. It all went well but Azuma trains bike spaces are **** Just as well I've abandoned my plan to do the GB Duro this year as my Jones would not fit in this space.

Leaving Embra was a struggle. Millions of glaikit tourists, a total change to the road layout and fucking tramlines made it somewhat hazardous. In my youth this was sport but these days it's just to much risk for not enough gain. There are lots of fancy new cycleways but a few bits seemed to disappear, the signs were tiny (and one pointed the wrong way) and the route convoluted. Plus ca change. I fought my way out eventually and finally contemplated the fair kingdom of Fife with a huge sigh of relief.

Not TLS as the low temps demanded I threw in some extra layers, not really needed in the event, thanks to getting colossally lucky with the weather once more. As per, the Stragg ate it all for breakfast. I keep contemplating something more exotic but nothing else out there quite meets my exacting needs; and the stragg just keeps delivering. It may be a bit heavy but it's idiot proof, tough, and no-one will try to nick it.

One last snack in Inverkeithing in the sun then a leisurely trundle up the final miles.

I'll do the Northumberland variant next time as it looks mighty fine but I now need to do some mountain biking!

A Ride North

A mate who I'd not seen for a while was throwing a do at his Highland Estate (500 acres) this weekend. Originally I was just going to go up on a motorbike but in view of my somewhat low mileage this month, thanks to a weekend off the bike due to music things happening, I figured on pedaling up. The weather forecast was less than inspiring for the Friday at least which was monumentally frustrating as my music weekend involved lots of sitting on coaches and in concert halls whilst the sun split the sky. 

However, the forecasted damp day on Friday wasn't and the weather radar on the Beeb seemed to suggest an improving picture throughout the evening. I confidently predicted a deluge to start when I left, however in actual fact the sun came out, Briefly. Of course cresting the first hill out of the village I viewed a large cloud slowly progressing west along the line of the Ochills and looking north revealed many more. But to the east it was much brighter so I cracked on. I had thought of going up the A9 route but I was aiming for a tin shed I'd previously used, which meant the hillier route via Aberfeldy and Loch Rannoch.

There then followed a very nice bike ride - the joy of riding until last light on an overnighter. The route is nice but not adventurous - all on road and many A roads at that. But they were largely devoid of traffic and it made for extremely pleasant riding through fine Perthshire scenery. I also managed to miss some very large clouds. Every climb revealed more cloud but other than a few sprinkles I remained dry. I was passed by three lads on 125's going  up the Sma Glen, something you rarely see these days. When I was that age there were 100's and 125's everywhere. They were stopped at the picnic area so I actually rode over to have a brief chat and reminisce - they probably thought I was a silly old fart!

Descending down to Aberfeldy revealed a wall of black cloud to the west and North. It was slowly moving away from me but I figured I would ride right into it at my current pace. The Co-op provided food and a beer for later and I guess if I'd hung on for half an hour it would have dried up but I pushed on as I wanted to reach my digs before dark O'clock. I did almost run into the back of the rain but, apart from some drizzle, missed the lot - the roads were awash!

I hoofed it up the climb out of Coshieville and it brightened up as the light was fading, on the descent to Loch Rannoch. Climbing the last hill, I ended up taking my jacket off again and I even thought of bivvying. But everywhere was extremely damp after the rain, and whilst the midge forecast was saying it would only be level 1 up here it looked like a perfect midge night. Eventually I got to the turn off to my favourite tin hut just as it got dark and as expected no-one else was in residence.

Small but perfectly formed and a godsend at the end of a longish ride. I had a pleasant hour or so drinking, eating and reading, reflecting on a fab evening - 100k in five and a half hours -  before turning in. 

I was up fairly sharp as I had the same again to do that day. It was still quite grey as I hoofed it up the climb out of Trinafore and over to the A9. 

Cloud over the Gaik pass and Large pylons - the controversial Beauly-Denny power line. Some amount of fuss was made when this was going in but in fact the expected 'giant' pylons ended up as these things which also replaced two sets of small pylons along the same line.

Then it was up the cycle route to Kingussie.

The old road sections were getting a bit rough when I was coming down here a couple of years ago but this bit has been re-surfaced - 7.5m wide, all for bikes! So the whole route is now tarmac and a pretty good route all in all. The A9 is ever present but you are away from it for the most part.

The weather brightened as the morning progressed, I had a fine breakfast at the cafe in Dalwhinnie and called into Bothy bikes in Kingussie to have a chat with Dave. The sun came out as I left, at last, and I did a fine few miles on the Speyside way (hero gravel) before trundling up the back road to Aviemore. I was a bit early for the do so sat in the sun at the Bridge Inn having a couple of pints. Then off along the Dalfaber to Boat of Garten Cycleway - another one of my creations - followed by food and coffee in the sun outside the shop. I got to my friends place at 2 and much social pleasantness followed.

My mate gave us a tour of his property in a rather fine tracked truck. We also put in a couple of owl boxes on poles so a very active weekend.

Total distance 210k so my May mileage is looking a bit more like it. Mega negative karma today though as I got a lift home with a mate!

Cairngorms Tour and May BAM

I've been hoping to get up to the Cairngorms for a weekend all year. In fact all of last year too. This was on the back of my fab March 2022 weekend doing a variation on the classic Cairngorms tour. But the rubbish weather has kept me away - it's a feature of being so close to the area that I only want to ride there if it's sunny!

As noted in my last post, it was snowy and cold that weekend but finally, out of the blue came a sunny forecast for this weekend. And hot! 20 degrees plus! No more freezing your (whatever) off whilst cold rain sprays into your face!

I ruminated on various options starting in Blair Atholl, gateway to much good riding and the start of the Cairngorms Loop and Tour routes; and only an easy hours drive away. At first I was going to do the whole weekend adding in a loop round Ben Alder but then the weather started going on about torrential rain and thunderstorms on the Sunday, not something I wanted to experience in a mountain range. Also the Caledonia etape was on, on the Sunday, so the drive home would be slow. Therefore I figured on doing the basic Cairngorms tour, which at 200k and a mere 2500m climbing should be straightforward for a Friday evening, all day Saturday ride. And it was

TLS load out ready to go. 

After the usual bit of trail then 10 miles of road then cycleway I hit the dirt up the Gaik pass, the sun beating down and a stiff breeze shoving me along - bliss! After a hellish few months at work I was properly due this one

Heading up the strath.

When you do the first ride of the year round here it's always slightly nerve wracking wondering what damage the winter storms have done. We've had some killers since last October so I was expecting carnage. Beside the river there was certainly a lot of debris, obviously deposited by flood water, but the track was clear and I was pleased to see the river was still going under the pipe bridge after it had been restored in 2020.

I got it horribly wrong on the first bit of single track. Despite much dry weather the bogs were still present. I figured one would be best ridden through straight as there should be a hard bottom, so to speak. There was until I was in the middle whereupon the front wheel disappeared up to the disk in quality glop. I tried to heave it out but it was firmly glued in place. Where to put my foot? Into a similar bog, up to calf depth. After flailing about a bit I managed to extricate me and bike and then set to cleaning gunge off boot, (waterproof) sock and leg. Fortunately, although the boot was damp inside the waterproof sock had done it's job and my tootsies were dry.

Salvaging the remains of my dignity I proceeded. After this the single track was largely dry and huge fun. I'd been moaning to myself about my lack of rock riding in recent months so this got me back into the swing. Then a steady ride down the glen on the improving track as the sun sank. I was up for riding until dark and originally I'd figured I'd stop in the Gaik itself, or one of the side glens. However I was making good progress so figured the woods out of Drumguish would do.

Sun setting oh so slowly, a month and a bit out of the equinox. 

Turns out the woods wouldn't do as between the trees was dense heather, a tick haven. In the end I went for the spot I'd used in 2022 and had a horrible mozzie experience. I was largely confident they wouldn't be up and about yet as it had been -5 here the other week. The midge forecast hasn't even kicked off yet. I'd stopped a couple of times to test the air, so to speak, but whilst there were a few flying things about, nothing of the biting kind. My spot was next to a locked Bothy - Baileguish - on short grass in it's lea but still a bit breezy to offer further defense against any winged menaces. It was 10.10pm as I turned in. I nearly went bivvy bag only, but there was a fair bit of cloud about plus there would likely be a lot of dew as the temps dropped so up went the tarp and a pleasant evening followed.

Top spot, if there are no horrible flying biting things.

Departure was at 7.30 am (hardcore compared to my usual casual BAM mornings) and off I went up through Inshriach and Rothiemurchus forests. Dry trails, heat and sun - heaven! Better yet, given the early hour there was hardly anyone about so I felt my pace creeping up to make best use of this rare combo.

Glen more cafe provided breakfast as I contemplated more fab trails - one of my favourite sections of the route over Ryvoan to Abernethy then lots of fun trails to Dorback, then the usual ups and downs to Tomintoul. Off I went, hammering the still quiet trails, and ignoring the distance I had to do. At one point I blasted past a group of guys doing the same route but over three days. They were all loaded up with lots of bags and rucksacks - TLS guys!

The Egg path - last done on that infamous Cairngorms Loop group start in 2020.

I had a bit of route faffing in Glen Brown, trying to overthink it. I also managed to get my other boot wet thanks to the slippy rocks on one of the several burn crossings. The heat was building on the climb up to Tomintoul so a cold drink was in order. Then more fried food to fuel me up the long strath of glen Avon. The wind was of concern as it had gotten quite breezy but it must have been more west than south as I made much better progress up the glen than last September when the headwind was a blaster. I was really getting into my stride on the Loch Builg singletrack, a fixed grin on my face as this was shaping up to be a fabulous ride.  Up the Cullardoch climb was a bit arduous as the miles were starting to make there presence felt (and my enthusiastic pace.) But I had a good blast down the other side and decided to miss Braemar and the road riding out to head direct to Linn of Dee.

This was tremendously exciting - an adder! Better still, after the usual transition from smooth doubletrack to rough doubletrack to singletrack, I surprised another one (Male this time) which hissed at me before slithering into it's burrow. I'd hoped to stop for a final feed at White bridge but someone had beaten me to it. Next option was by the Geldie but a couple were ensconced there. It looked a bit iffy as the storms of last year have started to wreck the nice smooth bed the river has followed for the last 8 years since storm Frank in 2016. There was also a fair bit of water in it - nothing drastic but indicative of the fact that everything was still pretty wet... I don't like having an audience but a certain amount of determination and 29+ got me through dry. Finally by the Bynack burn I found a suitable rock to sit on and ate the last of my food.

Looking back to the cairngorms - this is a fav spot of mine

About to drop into the Tilt descent.

This was, as usual, a hoot. Clouds were gathering but I seemed to bypass them down the glens twists and turns. Every time I ride this trail I seem to find another challenge. I cleaned a few killer sections and fluffed some others - but all in all a fab run. Then the transition back to rough double track, smooth track then motorway standard estate road back to the start. It's a great way to finish and I contemplated what I'd just done as I cruised down the last few miles, a large grin on my face. Definitely one to remember and a fine opportunity grabbed. I've ridden these trails numerous times but in a way it just makes it all the more enjoyable - no adventure here, just lots of fun!

And a good ride - 195k in total in about 13 hours ride time.