September BAM, the Monega

So last months (and the month before's) assertion of doing something more interesting next month has come to pass but no multi day extravaganza... Yet again my September holiday plans went pear shaped. I'd actually penciled in the UKSS champs for this weekend but that went west as I'd agreed to visit Mum and Dad for various reasons. I still hoped to do a decent tour or even an Autumn HT if the weather was looking favourable. Then Dad ended up in hospital (out now, all good). Then a weather shocker and a further Thursday commitment squeezed my available window into an overnighter. Again. Encouraged by a decent forecast for the Tuesday and a hopefully dry Wed morning I ruminated (and faffed) and ended up in the motor heading up the A9 for a Dunkeld start, destination.... somewhere.

On the GPS was a route I'd done in 2017 that went via various trails and the Capel Mounth to Ballater; and a route I'd done in 2018 via the mighty Monega Pass (alt 1000m) to Braemar. I nearly kept on up the A9 to Blair Atholl and more Cairngorm fun but it looked a bit murky further north and my (nowadays very low) tolerance for traffic saw the Birnam turn made and a rapid getaway. I guess I was desperate to be pedaling after a bike free weekend plus it was sunny!

And for a starter were the fine trails up to Lochs Ordie and Oisinneach (Beag and Mhor.) These are famously boggy (As per the SWB 2021) although in 2018 were bone dry. Today they were somewhere between these extremes...

Lots of extremely pleasant doubletrack followed plus some extremely pleasant bogs, but actually fine overall as I went round the south side of Loch Oisinneach which misses the horrors either side of Sarah's bothy.

On the singletrack climbing away from the main trails, quality tussocks.

I was committed to the Monega route by this time, as the route I'd used in 2017 would be a bit much given sunset at 7.30 or so. And there the hills were, in the sun! Between me and them (well Kirkmichael and the upper reaches of Glen Islay) were about 13 miles of empty back roads. But that was alright. I could have chucked in the Rob Roy way route from Ennochdhu to the Spital and down to Lair but I was aware of the time, sunset and the gathering clouds so tarmac was the way.

A famous sign (on the front cover of the Scottish Hill Tracks book for years) To this point it had been highly sunny although bigger clouds loomed to the north. It's about 30k to Braemar from here including the minor matter of a climb to 1000+m and around 12k above 900m. That said it's actually doubletrack the whole way, more or less. But it is a great route progressing from road to track to the leap up the ridge, a wall of hills in front of you. Near the top, two large birds of prey suddenly appeared. One flapped in a circle and a small bird suddenly flew away from it. Looks like the eagle didn't quite have a firm enough grip on it. Once it had flown the eagle then rejoined its mate and they both circled away from me. Fabulous.

c500m vertical of pushing to the summit of Monega hill. It's pretty steep in places but otherwise just a straight slog, no scrambling. But we ain't done yet.... 

Nav-wise there are a number of epic fails you could make here, but you'd likely soon realise, i.e. as you plummeted into Caenlochan Glen. The Glenshee Ski centre is the escape route as the top of the Glas Maol Pommer looms out of the murk. You could drop down this and up the Coire Fionnh tow back out to the Cairnwell, cafe and toilets. Also the miles of ski fences would guide you if you just headed north, However despite cloud now obscuring the summit of Glas Maol and a stiff breeze (which I'd feared would be gale force but wasn't) I was doing well, so on and up we go.

Being so close to the summit of Cairn a Cleise I figured I should divert to its summit - 1062m. Ben Avon dimples in view. You can head further east off here picking off Tolmount, Fafernie, Cairn Bannoch, Broad Cairn and a precipitous descent into Glen Muik. Or you could throw in Lochnagar if you are keen. This is probably the longest high level traverse do-able by bike in the UK. I'll do it one day but only if it's sunny and with a light breeze, with plenty of daylight, i.e. not today.

Looking back to the Monega ridge. I'd had a few spots of rain but it looked like the sky was clearing. The Lomond hills are just visible in the far distance. For todays ride I'd thought of a more usual Fife expedition over the Lomonds, Pilgrims Way and back via the coastal path which would have been wall to wall sunshine. Hey ho, here I was so get on with it.

I regained the landrover track and clattered off down the long descent. There are a couple of short climbs on the way but soon enough I was dropping into Glen Callater. I had one panic when I stopped to see if there were any signs of life at the bothy only for my back brake to disappear just as I set off again. Some frantic pumping yielded nothing and much front wheel slithering ensued as I brought the plot back under control. I hit the valley bottom and brake pressure magically re-appeared. There is clearly something wrong with this brake (see 'Not the Highland Trail') but I'm damned if I can figure out what. Anyway, despite being empty, I rode away from the bothy, Braemar my destination. It had taken some 2 hours to do the whole traverse.

Tootling down to Braemar on the back road I noted a perfect bivvy spot in a patch of sitka woodland. Ideal - I headed into town, grabbed some supplies from Greens and then back for a fine pitch up. The gale of earlier had dropped so a peaceful evening followed and a sound sleep. The wind reappeared later and woke me but once I'd decided it wasn't going to drop a branch on me I drifted back off.

The next morning. Annoyingly, as I was packing up a sprinkle of rain came in. It was somewhat gloomy (and very breezy) however the wind was still in the south east so hopefully would give me a bit of a shove down Glen Tilt. Breakfast 2 was partaken of in the little retail area behind the high street (benches under cover) then I headed off, the rain varying between dreich and...rain.... I was fairly relaxed about this, even if it was contrary to last forecast I'd seen pre-ride. The current forecast suggested it might cheer up later ahead of a deluge so any vague thought of a second night out was shelved.

My Passage of Glen Tilt was somewhat damp with full on heavy rain for the last miles. I was wary as the rocks on the trail are definitely of the slippery when wet variety. I passed three other people on bikes with bags attached, presumably doing the Cairngorms tour. As expected, some of the trickier sections were well slippy so a fair bit of footing (walking) did ensue but I managed to avoid a drastic fall into the abyss. Given my poor record for injuries of late, this was a relief. 

The SE wind varied between in my face and behind me as the glen made it's turns, finally spitting me out at Blair Atholl as the rain went off and the sky cleared somewhat. A fun ride down the riverside path followed and after lunch at Pitlochry I went with the old NCN83 route finishing with a long length of track back to Dunkeld. Total distance 107 miles! 

The NTS are doing stuff to the Bynack, Geldie and Dee - making piles of rock and old tree trunks. You typically do this sort of thing on heavily canalised water courses to improve habitat and reduce flow velocity but I'm pretty sure these rivers are wholly natural already. A bit of research suggests this is being led by the River Dee Trust trying to improve salmon habitat upstream. If we get another Storm Frank (or even a Muckle Spate) I can see these being scoured clear, so here's hoping for an epic storm free winter until they bed in a bit.

Another clean across the Geldie. The channel on the east side is getting quite deep and there are a few large rocks to catch you out.

I always like this view, knowing I don't have to cross the Tilt, stagger up the climb and splosh my way to Fealar Lodge and the last climbs on the CL300. That said, the rivers today were still low.

Jones looking quite feisty with the Chronicles on - first time I've used these for a few years and I'm liking them. Burly, grippy but actually pretty easy rolling on hard surfaces. As I sat here eating a Heron suddenly swooped into the little dell and sat looking optimistically for a fish - no chance in that burn, but pretty cool in the middle of Pitlochry.

August BAM, BSB.

So much for an interesting August bivvy. I'd various plans for a weeks holiday, including a Highland Trail ITT. That said, I was needing to get down to Mum and Dad's for a few days so this plan was pretty much canned in favour of an east coast ride down there. Then a couple of weeks before my holiday, I failed to complete a log hop and bashed in a rib (third time in under 12 months) and then the week before, I bashed my back in - working on one of the motorbikes squatted down, over-balanced and fell backwards onto another motorbike whose foot rest dug right into the muscle that goes up by your spine. Ouch. Worse, a few days later (no sign of it healing) it let go big style and I could barely walk. 

So the Friday before my week off saw me in A&E (no big deal just take it easy and take paracetamol) and any plans for a bike trip out of the window. Fortunately, I could still ride a motorbike so took my smallest one on a fun route south and spent some QT with the folks.

A couple of day rides have been done, including one that turned into yet another high temperature epic. But my back is still sore! So a bog standard local bivvy was on the cards, and I chose nearby Devilla forest.

Preston Island (not an island) on the Forth estuary. It is an artificial piece of land made up of the burnt ash from nearby Longannet Power station, now defunct. It's also a nature reserve, the big fenced off area being ideal for various birdies to live, undisturbed. Grangemouth across the water has always lit up the night sky hereabouts. Ineos man is saying he's going to shut it all down and do recycling instead. We'll see.... 

Bivvy spot near to where I was in March. It was pretty still and quite warm, so the down jacket was redundant. Annoyingly there were a few mozzies about so I retreated to the bivvy bag for my usual evening of reading and drinking beer. A sound and long sleep followed. Today I did a usual loop via the Stevens Bakers in Dollar. Then it started raining, which was completely unforecasted. Hey, ho...

Got a week off in September so hopefully something a bit more interesting then.

July BAM take 2

Bonus July Bivvy! The weather was looking good for Friday evening / night / Saturday morning and horrible for Saturday afternoon, so I figured a bivvy ride in the local woods would be a way of cashing in on this, as well as adding to my nights out tally. Thanks to my lame attempt on the Highland Trail I only bivvied once in May, instead of 5 times. I had a vague notion to hit 20 nights out this year so figured this one would at least be a start, although I doubt I'll hit this target. Any road, as soon as work on Friday was done, I was off. 2 hours later I'd climbed up to Coalcraigie Hill (alt 450m) and pitched up. A straightforward route and the trails were still pretty dry. The only annoyance was my usual route across Castlehill res dam was blocked by a site compound and a large scaffold. This does my nut in - it's a key route linking Glen Devon with the various forests off the Dunning road, and a core path to boot. But there had been no pre-warning, no diversion, no nothing. I will write to various people explaining my disappointment with their piss poor site management...

View back home. The views all around were fab, with the Forth and Tay Estuaries visible, the hills above Dundee (and Dundee itself,) Embra, the Pentlands and the Perthshire hills through which I'd cycled last weekend.

A fine evening followed. I had tea sat out before the dreaded midge turned up. So I retired to the Deschutes (inc. mesh inner for max luxury) and checked out the sunset. Beers helped...

A solid nights sleep followed with one loo break, fortunately largely midge free as the temps has dropped. Then at 7.30 I got going with breakfast. Annoyingly, a brief rain shower came through and oddly, despite a dry night, the Deschutes was soaked inside. 

A gloomy morning...

That said, by the time I got going, the cloud was breaking and there were hints of blue sky. Various trails followed, heading back west over the large climb over the pass by Greenlaw to avoid more shenanigans on the Castlehill res dam. The sun was beating down! Not what was in the forecast but I wasn't complaining.

Much greenery on the old ROW between Auchterarder and Glen Devon, thanks to a warm / wet / dry summer so far. This used to be a well used track which I suspect saw a fair bit of vehicular use for many years. But like a few others round here forestry has replaced farming and not even agricultural vehicles are using it so in places it was getting a bit overgrown.

Given the weather, with still no sign of rain, I threw in an extra loop over Seamab hill and got home just as the rain started.

I've a week off in August so hopefully something a bit more interesting, bivvy wise....

Cool nights and hot days

We've had some pretty crazy weather this year so far - driest winter on record, dryer spring and then it's turned into a real mix of temps, rain, sun and wind. My mum is complaining that they have barely had a drop of rain since March down her way and parts of the south are officially into drought conditions.

I'd penciled in this weekend to do a 200 miler as per last June and a couple of years ago. But another heatwave was due over the weekend with 30 degrees predicted across Scotland, so this seemed a bit much. A bivvy was the next option as I could really trim the weight down given warmth and total dryness. Then I figured on mixing the two - do the double century but throw a sleep in. This would mean riding into the evening and cooler temps, then hopefully most of the ride home would be done before things got too hot the next day.

So 5pm saw me pedaling west on the Stormchaser, just my lightweight pertex bivvy bag, mat and quilt in the seat pack. I planned a variation of the 200 miler I'd done before without the loop round Loch Rannoch, substituting a loop into Angus on a new road.

Callander was reached quickly enough, despite using a route that adds miles but avoids all main roads. It had started out at 27 degrees but sitting by the river drinking a cold can, things were cooling down nicely. I had the fab cycleway to Killin largely to myself and on the final descent through the forest it was almost chilly. That said, you'd occasionally pass through patches of very warm air indicating an inversion in progress but with the trees retaining pockets of heat. All interesting stuff!

Anyway, I hit Killin Co-op and sat out eating a lot of food. I even had a beer to celebrate the perfect bike riding.

So north we go, into the fading light. There was a huge scout camp up Glen Lochay and folk were sat out, but when I stopped the midges were there. Not too bad, but I was wondering if a shed stop would be a better bet than trying to bivvy outside. The sun was setting but you'd need to be up high to see it and even the summit of the pass is surrounded by hills. I got down the potholed descent in the last of the light but kept lights off as long as I could on the easy pedal down Glen Lyon.

I passed several groups of campers, all with fires. When I think of all the publicity this year about camp fires and the resulting moor fires, I give up. I guess at some point someone will end up burning themselves (or worse, someone else) to death and then maybe people will start listening to common sense... Then I was surprised by (and surprised) an oncoming cyclist, also with no lights and probably doing the BD as he had bags on. We hailed each other but kept on. Finally on the descent to Bridge of Balgie it was now full dark so on with the lights and onward.

More easy riding followed down the glen. I kept thinking I should be bivvying, given the lateness of the hour, but apart from a few yawns I was feeling fit, so I stuck to the plan. At times it was pretty cold (15 degrees!) and I began to notice more night time animals - hooting owls, snipe and a hedgehog ambling across the road. The air was full of bugs, most of which ended up in my eyes but nothing nasty, like mosquitos... And on the long climb out of Coshieville, there were loads of toads sat on the road, obviously enjoying the still warm tarmac, and oblivious to all around them, including me. I saw a few squashed ones, sadly, but avoided squashing any more. The distance was telling by now and the descent was taken carefully, given the late hour (it was now Saturday,) and more toads.

Tummel Bridge was deserted naturally, it being after 1. I started the long climb out of Rannoch over to Glen Errochty, the hut my target for the day as although there were less midges around it would make things easier. It had been empty on my last three visits so a van parked at the bottom of the track up to it was of concern. However as I went up the track, lights doused thanks to the full moon, the alarm suddenly went off and was quickly silenced, suggesting someone was in the van and not in the hut. Sure enough, the string tying the door closed was in place - what a relief!

I sat back having a snack and a dram, reflecting on the previous 9 hours. 107 miles was as long a ride as I'd ever done on a Friday evening. Even our midsummer rides back in the '90's wouldn't have come this far, this quick. Soon enough I felt my eyelids droop and crashed out.

Much cracking and banging as the corrugated iron expanded in the strengthening sun woke me at 6. It would be cool for a while so I reckoned on getting going, despite less than four hours sleep.

Small but perfectly formed.

Morning view

As I rolled down Glen Errochty I felt OK, not the bleary eyed drudgery of my second day on the HT. A couple of cars came up the road, probably heading to work in the big hotel at Rannoch, but otherwise I had the place to myself, right down to Blair Atholl. The temps were rising but an easterly breeze was cool. Pitlochry provided a proper breakfast, courtesy of Greggs, sat in the shade. I'd be seeking shade from here on in.

Of which there was very little for the next few miles, over a large climb into Strathardle. The air was crystal clear however, making me wonder if I shouldn't have been up a hill somewhere as the views would be stunning. This was my only real A road bashing of the ride and a few cars and bikes were around but they all disappeared on a cracker of a new road out of Glenshee, climbing over a large moor to Alyth. There are few other wee roads round here, all off the beaten tracks of Glen Shee and the Angus glens. A few roadies coming the other way indicated its popularity. Looking south I realised I was seeing the Lomond Hills and the backside of the Ochills - home was almost in sight! But still a ways off, so keep pedaling...

Alyth provided Breakfast number 3 from a cafe which crucially had an outside seating area in the shade. I was starting to feel pretty weary, my lack of sleep catching up, as well as the heat. Beyond here, the temperature hit 30 degrees and stayed there.

Even the bike appreciated the shade!

I was now on the network of unclassified roads linking east Perthshire and Angus, through which I've pedaled a couple of times on my Mounth and Moray tours. It's easy going but I was craving every bit of shade. The easterly was now behind me which actually made things worse as I could have done with the cooling breeze. Beyond Woodside your on a local short cut route so a fair few cars came past, and beyond the A93 there was more traffic using this road to avoid Perth. There is a new bypass now but obviously the penny hasn't dropped yet... I cared not a fig for the cars I held up on the narrow and twisty road as the heat was really getting too me. I reached Stanley and dived straight into the shop for more cold drinks and an iced Lolly, sat under the village green trees and blessedly cool shade.

To Dunning I left all traffic behind but two climbs brought on the beginnings of the dreaded bonk. So more shade, cold drinks and food were needed. I poured a liter of iced water over me, making me gasp, but necessary to keep cool on the Dunning climb. I ground up slowly but steadily, my wet shirt preventing me boiling over, helped by a stiffening breeze, thank goodness!

Eventually both me and the temperature were heading down. The last climb on the Knockhill road was in the shade and finally I was home, 103 miles done but taking over 9 hours thanks to all the stops. I was utterly exhausted. 

I lazed around in the garden all afternoon to the accompaniment of many cold drinks and an ice cold beer (perfect storm, not sure if that was appropriate or not!) and contemplated what I'd just done. 210 miles total, just shy of 4000 metres of climbing over generally easy terrain. Riding into the night had been fab as usual and the hut a great stopping point. I should have probably slept for longer, starting in the hottest part of the day but again riding into cooler temps. Hey ho, I've a full day to recover and then we are back to rain and cold again...

Cairngorm Tour '25

Last year I'd allowed myself to be persuaded to attend a motorcycle rally / festival - the 'Adventure Bike Festival,' that is, a large gathering of middle aged blokes on their large 'off road' motorcycles. Friends who'd persuaded me also convinced me to join them on a tour of Wales afterwards. So I'd booked a fortnight off work, which left the first weekend free to do some bike riding. Lo and behold, a heatwave was also been touted for this weekend so plans were made. Of course the weather chopped and changed with thunderstorms being mooted at one point. In the end, it looked like a few showers would be around Friday and Saturday, with Sunday looking rather damp. So I figured on a Cairngorms tour with an extra bit to get up to my pals place in Speyside for a BBQ on the Saturday night.

I've done this route with variations more times than I can recall, however in terms of smiles per mile, it scores very highly, particularly if you get the weather right. I got to Blair Atholl just as a very heavy shower came on, but it lasted all of one minute before the sun re-appeared. After a fish tea and a final ruminate on which way I should go round (i.e. the normal way up the Gaik, or in reverse up Glen Tilt) I headed up Glen Tilt, solely due to it looking sunnier east rather than north. That said, it's been a few years since I'd done it this way and I felt I needed to add at least some variation into the proceedings.

The trundle up the glen was a joy - in warm sunshine and a gentle breeze to push me along and keep the midges at bay when I stopped to appreciate the view. I paused at the Tarf water bridge for a beer ahead of the singletrack climb. Most people advise going east to west so it's a downhill but it's actually fun either way. I got up most of it, despite being SS and emerged at the watershed at half 8. 

I'd been a bit wary of the midge situation, despite a level one being forecast but my pauses had been midge free so far. Bivvy-wise I thought of making my way up one of the hills near to the Tilt watershed to minimise the chances of an encounter, but in the end I went with Bynack lodge as there was no one else to be seen. Maybe they were all in the Red Bothy! 

This is an ace camping spot. Sure enough the midges were about but I managed to set up and get in the bag midge free. I tried out my 'flextail' bug killer but as far as  I could tell, it didn't work. In view of the forecast I went tarp free and after a dram or four slept soundly until first light.

Somewhat murky, and a bit damp thanks to a heavy dew. I slept for another hour but decided to get going just after 6 as I had a fair ways to go and would hopefully get up the first climbs of the day before the heat.

Breakfast was procured at Greens (Nee the Co-op) in Braemar, courtesy of a Fisher and Donaldsons steak and haggis pie, followed by a fudge custard donut. I nearly went with the coffee tower but I always end up with most of it in my beard!

So onwards and upwards into clearing skies and hot sun. I faffed to find the new 'shared use' path that was finished last year but, although it does miss the A93 out to Invercauld, starts in the middle of a load of steep and rooty singletrack. 

The Cullardoch climb followed and I paused at the top to dry out quilt and bivvy bag. They were only a bit damp but the hot sun and breeze made for ideal drying conditions, utilising some odd wire mesh baskets covering patches of heather. Not entirely sure what this is meant to be doing. The view was fab and I noted the only snow visible anywhere - two bits on the south end of Ben Avon. Quite how these had survived is a mystery!

Then it was the usual route south to Tomintoul. I saw many other bikepackers, one with a dog and trailer, others on the usual mix of machines. Best of all, I spied an Eagle floating above the hillside opposite. More food at the Firestation cafe in TT followed and texts with the friends I was staying with that night indicated they were heading up to do a lap of the Glenlivet trails. I figured on joining them but had an hour to kill so ground up the Speyside Way climb up Carn Daimh and hit the trails off this, looping back round to the start and the cafe. I found one 'off piste' bit which was nice and noodly but the made stuff was the usual, i.e. it would be fun on the gravel bike but easy on the Jones, bags and all.

After a cold coke (it was now roasting) Rob, Iona and Alex appeared and we rode the trails back round to my high point of an hour ago. It was fun riding with the others and I guess this is where such places score as there is no challenge required, you can just have a blast and a laugh. 

We got back up to Cairn Daimh again and I left them to finish the loop, descending off the SSW back to the road for a leisurely trundle to their place. A mighty fine BBQ followed and much chit chat, beer and good cheer.

The next day was still breezy with rain a coming. I blagged a lift to Nethybridge (steadfastly not taking up an offer of a lift back to Blair Atholl) and headed south via the standard Cairngorms tour / loop route. Again, no challenge but lots of good riding on bone dry trails.

I spied this sign on Ryvoan pass. Just as I finished reading it, I heard a heavy tread and the crack of branches and there, right behind me, was the Capercaillie!! Or was it the Jaberwockie...

Needless to say it was actually nowhere to be seen, but this is the first time I've seen this tactic to keep people away from them. The ride south was fab as usual, with very few people about and lots more dry trails.

I did think of an extra loop to bag Ben Alder and another night out but the weather to the west looked decidedly ropy. So far I'd caught one heavy shower whilst passing by Loch Morlich requiring jacket on, plus a few sprinkles came and went. But straight south looked a better bet. I diverted to Kingussie for one last weather check and a Co-op meal deal, and decided that the Gaik it was. It was still pretty breezy but I made it all the way up the Glen only needing to don jacket once.

I do like this trail. Scores for this pass is 17 times, 20 up and down Glen Tilt! I think I need to ride somewhere else for a change.

Oh bloody hell. This pipe bridge has been here for many, many years. In 2012 the river ploughed through the ground I'm stood on and the bridge was bypassed, remaining redundant until 2020. This led to a lot of troublesome river crossings here, particularly in 2014 post storm Bertha. In 2020 the estate restored the river to it's original line under the pipe bridge and did a lot of work with very large rocks and gabions. This has all been to no avail. Worse, the pipe bridge a k downstream was also wrecked (but just passable) and it had survived all the 2012 storms, Storm Bertha and Frank. The thing is, when I was here a year ago, all was well and I couldn't recall any storms over the incredibly dry winter. On reviewing my own weather data and asking a few friends, it does look like there was a big rain storm in January, during one of the many temperature spikes and on dry ground so I guess this must have done it. Oh well, we'll wait and see what the estate does this time...

Anyway, I rolled down the glen and back along the cycleway, reflecting on a fab day and weekends bike ride. So motorcycling next and then it's July. Once again, the year is racing by!

Gravel Biking

I've had a gravel bike since 2017, my much loved, used and abused Surly Straggler. Last summer I upped the game with a bargain priced Salsa Stormchaser frameset, giving more tyre clearance and less weight. To date my rides on both these bikes have been a mix of road and generally easy trail, a few tours and some long days, exclusively on my own. A mate persists in referring to them as hybrids and (often rightly) points out I'd be better of fitting a set of fast rolling tyres to the Jones....

This went through my mind as I set off on a gravel sportive round the Trossachs, destination for numerous road and trail rides from the house, in the company of nigh on three hundred others. I'd signed up as part of a vague new years resolution to try to do stuff that was a bit more social. Being fairly local and organised by a small group who'd done a lot of work to develop waymarked trails round QE forest, it seemed a good shout. Based on feedback from someone who'd done the shorter version last year, it looked to be fairly low key without the high numbers (and over-crowding) of things like the dirty riever. 175k and 3300m were the advertised numbers but the final route included a bonus climb and a few other tweaks bumping the climbing to 3700m.

Training involved doing the Highland Trail. Or not as it turned out, but I was fairly confident I had plenty of leg to get round. Motivation nose dived on being told the start time was 6.30 am. I'd typically do such a thing starting at 10 and riding into the evening.... Then I nearly threw it at 3.30am on the morning of the ride having failed to sleep for more than a few minutes. So I wasn't in the most positive frame of mind on arrival at Aberfoyle at a bleary-eyed 5.30am, not helped by a truly horrific level of midges. The torrential rain of the previous day had gone off and the forecast wasn't too bad but everything around me was sodden, hence the death midges!

I pedaled up to the start and much walking around in circles waiting for the off followed, in order to avoid the midges. I'd bumped into a fellow BB forum member, Paul (I'd my full team colours on which he clocked) who was running Jones bars on his SC machine. We'll come back to this. My biggest concern was either to go off too quick and blow up at the halfway point or end up in a sleep deprived energy-less grind as per day two of the HT. We ruminated on the route but both being veterans of the BB200, figured that with no tussocks or death marches would be fine.

Finally at 6.40 we were off. The front runners who were actually racing (and a load of the 'challenge riders' who'd tagged along behind) had left at 6.30 so alarmingly I was at the front. 

One of the nice things about doing a paid and organised event is that people take your picture. Thanks to Ben Fitzhugh, official event photographer, for this and the other images. Just off the start and stood up already!

I strove to keep the pace well down to the first climb which is very familiar to me - up NCN7 from Aberfolye to the forest drive, usually done at mile 70 or so on one of my Trossachs bashes from the house. I utilised my steady single speed rhythm, and overtook a lot of people, feeling massively self conscious as everyone around me was on gears. The forest drive was car free so I had a good blast down to the venechar cycleway, passing a few folk on the way for a clear run. The sun was now shining and the heat was building on a loop above Callander. 

Clattering down to the A81 near Callander.

A few pedestrians were encountered on the cycleway north but soon enough the route picked up a track I'd done a couple of years back and the second big climb, more overtaking...

The descent of this is rough and I noted three people fixing punctures, all pulling tyres and fitting tubes. One guy was carrying his bike! In fact I'd already passed a few folk messing with flat tyres so it looks like I'm not the only one to have huge faffs with punctures.

Puncture chaos...

Confident in my food supplies I rode through the first feed station and onto the great trossachs path which I've done a few times and one that should provide much fun. That said, it would also provide an opportunity to over do it and either crash or blow up. I passed more people along here, including one guy I'd yo-yo with for the remainder of the route. But, although I was feeling a little weary, I'd plenty of leg so kept on. The descent was slippy and rocky but I got down in good order catching a group near the bottom as well as noting the beginning of the days first precipitation. It was interesting riding with others. It seemed like many would hammer past me on the flats but then immediately reach for their granny gears on any kind of climb. So of course there was much passing and re-passing, me fearing that I was getting in peoples way with my unique pace. Nobody moaned though...

Fine dreich came and went and views west revealed no hills but much clouds. The 'bonus climb' followed looping off the Loch Katrine road with what promised to be a somewhat precipitous descent. I got up most of it on the pedals, with still no leg or energy issues. The descent was good fun although pretty slippy in places and quite stony. I was still passing people but it was all very good natured. 

Action shot on a nice noodly singletrack. Jaunty cap angle deliberate of course...

Finally I was riding west round Loch Katrine, passing the halfway point at quarter past eleven.

Stronachlachar pier was checkpoint and feed station 2. I stopped here for a while drinking coke and eating some of the offerings. I wasn't really feeling hungry, indicating a higher pace than is my wont but I'd still not blown up so all was well, apart from more clouds of midges and no sign of the forecasted stiff breeze.

More great trossachs path out and back by road before heading into the top end of QE forest. I kept reminding myself I was here for fun so made the most of the swoops and turns, knowing another big climb was coming and ahead of this a longish loop round more fire roads. Thanks to the rain, the surface of these and many others was glue like, adding to the effort. On dry day it would have been easy going....

The climb was duly ground up, pedaling all the way. As soon as I hit the descent I passed two people pulling tyres and fitting tubes. I'd noted a lot of people with very soft tyres, which seems to be established wisdom. I was running 45/50 psi, less than my usual and a bit harsh; but zero punctures was the pay back. Looks like those foam inserts are a waste of space also as I passed a few people carrying them!

The descent was long and the end hailed the final check point. I grabbed a couple of snacks, drank more coke and had another banana before hitting what would be the final climb. Less welcome was a very sloppy trail thanks to forestry works. It wasn't for long fortunately and off the top the track was a good one taking you in a big loop almost to NCN7 south before diving back into the depths of the woods. Annoyingly the on/off fine dreich got a bit incessant up here and I ended up donning jacket. Further annoyance was in the form of various rattles and bangs from the bike. First I noted the GPS dangling off it's leash, then I noticed one of the bottle cages was about to go AWOL, then I noticed a bolt had fallen out of the lower mudguard mount. This was all sorted in jig time but gave an indication of the length of rough riding I was doing.

I was convinced there was another loop and climb to do after this but as usual I didn't bother checking the gps, I just got my head down and pedaled. On finally stabbing the GPS screen to see how far I'd come it indicated 169k i.e 6 to do - so much for the extra climb! The sun reappeared as well and soon enough I was on the last trail (including much roots and rock steps) then people were cheering me across the line. It was coming up to 4pm making my time 9hrs 20. Despite the faffing my stopped time was 40 minutes, my pacing had been pretty much spot on with no major energy dips, although a decent nights sleep beforehand would definitely have helped, but overall a good show.

A small person handed me a medal and a (low alcohol) beer, I chatted with the guy I'd yo-yo'd with and others about the vagaries of single speed. I noted Mike Debernardo, last seen at Tyndrum, chatting to a couple of other Highland Trail finishers so congratulated him on that and had a quick chat about the weather. Then the sleep monsters started to take hold so I pedaled back to the car and headed home for a lot of food and a long, long sleep.

On seeing the results, I discovered I was 29th person to finish of the challenge riders and tenth over 50. So actually a much better showing than I'd first thought. I also found out that someone did it fixed! 

Whether I do this or such a thing again, I'm not sure. I did actually quite like bumping into people along the way so maybe I'm not as anti-social as I think. That said, a staggered start time over an hour or so would better suit my temperament and sleep patterns. I could see myself falling into the 'let's do it faster' trap or at least 'let's do it after a decent nights sleep' but we'll see. Bike-wise I would say that flat or loop bars and a fast rolling 50mm tyre would have been a far better bet, i.e. what Paul had. I was only on the drops for the descents and as usual, the climbs dictated your overall pace. At least I never got a puncture!

(Oh no) Not the Highland Trail!

I'm on the start line again, 553 miles of trail ahead of me. Around me were the usual types, this year (a first) all wearing waterproofs. It was that marvelous rain type that is really quite wet, but allows the midges to have a go at you too. Prior to the previous evening, it had been dry for weeks at home and dryish for weeks across the whole of the Highlands. This on the back of the dryest winter on record. So fair to say seeing this lot come in on day 1 with worse to follow, including high winds, didn't exactly fill me with enthusiasm for my 7th attempt at this route. But I was here and I'd no choice but to give it a good go.

On the start, Alan as cheery as ever.

8.30 came and off we went. The rain persisted up into Glen Lyon and then slowly faded away. Fortunately, this and the deluge the previous night hadn't had any impact on the rivers which were barely above tyre level. This year Alan had sent us round the north side of Glen Lyon, as per 16-19, and there is one rather large river to cross as opposed to several small ones. Then the sun came out! In fact as we hit the road, the temps soared and everyone was pealing off waterproofs and layers.

This was all sorts of good news but lots of noise from my rear brake wasn't. On stopping, I realised the brake was binding horribly, you actually had to put a bit of effort into turning the wheel. I'd not noticed as Glen Lyon is a tailwind assisted road descent. This was incredibly annoying as a similar issue had cropped up a month ago. I'd cleaned everything up and bled both brakes and all seemed well, including on a typically steep and long Ochills descent, my final test ride. I stopped to remove the caliper, pump the pistons in and out again and refit. It made BA difference so I squeezed the pads off the disk and avoided using the back brake. This got me over to Rannoch and Up the Ben Alder trail. 

Despite the rain, the trails were dry and I had fun. I'd got going towards the front of the bunch and more or less maintained my place but my pace seemed fine so I kept on. A load of people passed me on the Glen Lyon road so that was fine. That said, I passed most of them on either the Gallabaich climb or the Ben Alder climb. As usual it was all very friendly with various brief conversations struck up with passing riders. Pete Aylward from the BB forum was riding again (last attempt also in '23 but post crash injuries meant he had to scratch at Fort A) but having problems with a slipping seat post - another issue he had thought he's sorted pre ride, much like my back brake.

No Ben Alder view this time. The bog hop to the climb was still dry though.

On the descent of the Bealach Dubh the back brake had to be used and it got worse and worse with horrible noises coming from it. I figured on giving it one more go at Culra Bothy and if I couldn't sort, I was out of there. No way was I doing this route on one brake! Anyway, mangled pad spring removed, push back pistons, spare Hope pads and spring in, we're away, fully functional. Bugger.

More good news. In '23 I was amazed to find the rotting old bridge over the Pattack gone and a nice new one in its place. The old one was piled up at the bank side. This year, I was similarly amazed to find the rather boggy track scraped out, a big drainage ditch dug and the latter half surfaced. Hoo-bloody-rah! The old bridge must have been buried on site somewhere - a fitting end.

Trail Angels!

I had a good blether with Donnie and Richie at the start of the Corrieairyack. I'd met them in the same spot in '23, being somewhat bemused that bikepacking was now a spectator sport. This time I accepted their dram as I'd nothing to lose. In the event the whisky went down like nectar and relieved some of the pain.

Jimmy's air B'n'B after a long, long climb, into a strong, strong wind.

No view this year, situation normal.

Then Fort Augustus and pizza. Loads of people were there and "that was hard work" was a bit of a theme. Suitably stuffed, I headed up the GGW in search of the first likely bivvy spot as I was done. My fab '21 spot had been clear felled so on we go catching up with Alan just before spying another perfect spot. The midges were about speeding up pitch time, then it was in the bag, swat a few followers and lay back, 98 miles done. The rain came on soon after and continued until dawn. I know this as sleep largely alluded me - I just couldn't seem to switch off, despite using all my usual tactics. I think I was stuck on thinking about where I'd bivvy elsewhere en-route, given the weather and the realisation I'd be a half to a full day slower given the forecasted gales.

Thank god for the Deschutes. Totally dry inside! I was up and off sharp as the midges were out, then north into a brightening day and a freshening breeze. I felt a bit bleary eyed, given my lack of sleep but figured it would pass as the day progressed. It had been raining as I left but breaks in the cloud and even hints of sun would hopefully mean another day better than forecast. More good news was the Invermoriston community center toilets being open - much nicer than digging a hole whilst the midges got at you.

The climb out of Invermoriston is a brute and the wind was getting fresher and fresher. The trail beyond the road is a gem but it does climb a long way. I was on a serious go slow feeling utterly wabbit with no way of putting more than a token effort into pedaling. That said I made steady progress over the huge climb, noting with amusement Ramon from Spain hanging his cycling kit on a tree to dry just as the days first shower came through. I'd met him the day before and as with all Spaniards I've met, very friendly, a tenacious bike rider and totally unfazed by Scottish weather.

More climbing and no hiding from the wind on the windfarm tracks. I actually really enjoyed the Loch Ma Stack Trail, the rocks distracting me from the gale and the regular showers, now coming in every 10 minutes or so. As Alan had left that morning he said he was heading for the Cannich Campsite Cafe for breakfast. I'd been thinking of just bashing on as I had plenty of food on board to get me to Contin. But when I finally hit the descent I changed all plans. I needed food, caffeine and a rest, in order to recharge my batteries.

Pete and Alan were there (and another guy whose name I've forgotten) so we chatted and checked out the race action (!) The northern reaches of the route, in theory achievable that day, were disappearing into an unreachable distance. This was confirmed on the Struy to Orrin Track. The puddles had reappeared thanks to the rain but were still way low so progress should have been good. But the climb was hard and at times I felt I was crawling.

The sun came and went, I'd my jacket on but left off over trousers as I was boiling over when the sun shone.

All climbs on this route fit the dictionary description of a cycling 'hard climb' - twice as long as you think, always seeming to find the highest bit of terrain to go over and always turning into the wind just when you were wanting a bit of respite, and with always, always, one more bit. If you are on form you can just plough through this but I was not. I kept stopping on the pushes for no reason, just collapsing over the bars. I wasn't shouting or swearing (or crying,) I knew what was happening and I was eating and drinking loads, waiting for the energy dip to pass. But it didn't and when the track turned into the gale I was destroyed. I made the decision I was out then. Always a bad thing but I was out of options. It occurred to me to just stop and sleep but the constant showers (and no hydro bothy) precluded such a move. 

Last shot on the route, Orrin dam. Surfs up! My load out was spot on for the weather. About the same, weight wise as '21 and about a kilo heavier than '23. Maybe that's why I was struggling...

I got to Contin eventually and spent ages just sat, eating and drinking. Even Irn Bru didn't work! I was burst. Alan was rightly scathing when I told him I was out. I knew I could recover eventually but the weather for the next day would be worse and suddenly I didn't see the point in going on, enduring a suffer fest for no good reason. I guess this is a consequence of having done the route four times before (including the exceedingly wet 2015 edition) - you've nothing to prove. Others had bailed already so I felt I'd done justice to my attempt and place on the group start. So on with the phone, find digs in nearby Dingwall, pedal off route. Even a descending tarmac road with a tailwind seemed hard work...

Food, beer and a lot of sleep followed, in an amusingly scuzzy 'hotel' not cheap but cheapest available. The next morning was sunny and breezy with some very large clouds around. I had breakfast in Tesco and then headed to Inverness via NCN 1. My legs were still pretty leaden and I was still struggling with the minor hills en-route so I was satisfied yesterday's energy crash wasn't just a blip. At Inverness I went up to Velocity cafe (now re-badged as something else) and loitered there for over an hour, noting the number of bikepackers passing through, probably off on the Badger. Then the bus home. Yes, you can get you bike on all city link services free! I'd booked this the night before as there were no bike spaces on any train service south all day. 

My Mum pointed out afterward that I'd researched lots of bail out options and that my heart probably wasn't in this ride even before the start. Right as usual... Getting the bike on the bus was somewhat tricky but the journey south was fine and suddenly I was back home. Next task was to rescue the car so a scenic train ride to Tyndrum the next day followed. It felt a bit odd arriving in Tyndrum again recalling the start 78 hours earlier. Then it was a drive home and that was that. '25 Highland Trail attempt done.

I'd really hoped to get round as a fitting tenth anniversary of my first successful ride. The weather and trail conditions were far worse and the route much harder in 2015, but I was super motivated to do it. Plus it was a lot easier to get digs or bothies, something that is now much trickier so you are generally having to bivvy for every night. Fine in the dryness of 2023 but hard work in the wet. However, I didn't, and whilst a bit disappointed, the trail isn't going anywhere. I've ruminated on doing an ITT for a few years now and I think that my next attempt will be just that, hopefully when the weather is good.

As usual, I've been avidly dotwatching since bailing and it looks like there were a few epics out there. That said the completion rate is pretty high considering what we were up against.

I now need to do a proper bikepacking trip having failed to do this one. Watch this space...

Kit notes:- Deschutes, bora bivvy, tyvek ground sheet, Cumulus 150 quilt, neo air mat, exped pillow with a base layer to sleep in. No stove again. I wore Endura shorts, a base layer and my BB top, knee length sealskins socks, sealskins gloves, goretex gaiters, goretex over trousers and my ever reliable Paramo Quito jacket, now 12 years old and still kept me totally dry. My ageing Shimano goretex boots are done as they leaked and are generally wrecked. I've a new pair but I didn't get round to breaking them in.