I do like a tour and try to do one every year. This one would take me from home up through Perthshire and Angus to the vast back road network of Aberdeenshire. Then I'd check out some Moray Coastline, drop by my friends place in lower Speyside and then tootle my way home via some suitable route and a fine shed I'd discovered a couple of years ago. I'd meant to start on Sunday but fear of lots of shops being shut on Monday thanks to Queenies appointment with boot hill lead me to delay until Monday. When touring I want to stop at as many eating and drinking establishments as possible!
The weather forecast was all over the place as usual with the Beeb showing white cloud and 12% chance of rain across most of Scotland - i.e they hadn't got a clue what the weather would do. So I was pleasantly surprised to wake up to sunshine. I'd ruminated on various routes but aside from the weather, the clincher was the midge forecast - level one for the east but threes and fours for the west and central Highlands. No contest, I'd been clobbered by the wee buggers a fair bit this year so was determined to avoid them for this trip. I also had my sights on bothies, huts and other howffs for this reason. Of course I could have used hotels but I'm a cheapskate!
Rather a lot of faffing ensued. I'd actually got packed up on the Friday but a final check of the weather indicated a jump (upwards) in temps so out with the heavy quilt and Deschutes and in with the Cumulus 150 and tarp. I didn't hit the road until after 11. Then I remembered I'd not put the OS mapping for the north of Scotland on the new gadget so had to turn back after a mile or so and faff with that. Bloody hell, I thought I'd got this stuff off to a fine art. Oh well, still less hassle than flying!
Finally I was rolling. The earlier hassles evaporated in the sunshine and I settled into my now well practiced easy pedal on the Straggler. For a change I decided to head for Perth to avoid another go at the Dunning climb. It's a pretty good route overall with only a bit of traffic to contend with as you enter the city. On the north side it's all off road on a cycleway along the flood defenses. These were built in the '90's and unfortunately got overwhelmed just after completion due to an unseasonal 200 year flood. Since then nothing has come close!
By the banks of the Silvery Tay (again - I've been over and passed this mighty river many times this year) Straggler in touring mode.
There then followed a few hours of meandering northeast-ish along various minor roads, through lots of pleasant rolling countryside, the large hills of the Angus glens to my left. Much the same route I used on my tour in 2020 but none the worse for it as it's all easy riding. The GPS is a good thing for this as navigating by map would have taken ages - I wasn't in a rush but it was about 100 miles to my nights accommodation so I was for making steady but un-interrupted progress. Of course the weather soon departed from the forecast, quelle surprise, as vast rain clouds started to appear and interject themselves in my path. Amazingly I missed the lot, catching only a few sprinkles and often riding on roads that were awash from a recently departed deluge. This is probably setting me up for some horrible weather in the future (BB300?) but it may simply be the reward for dealing with so much horrible weather in years past...
As expected all shops were shut apart from the Edzell village shop which supplied crisps, coke and chocolate. To Fettercairn some light but steady drizzle came in, typical given what was to come. Which was the (in)famous Cairn O'Mounth road from Fettercairn to Banchory. I'd last ridden this in 2011, actually on the day King mark 2 and his bird got married so quite fitting really. Then I'd nailed it on my Cotic X with a 30/34 granny gear. Today would be different but having got up the Cairnwell in June on the Strag SS I had the bit between my teeth. The drizzle had been getting persistent but as I started on the climb past Clattering Brig it eased off and the darkening sky showed breaks in the cloud and even some blue sky.
So off we go. It's actually steeper than the Cairnwell - 14% in places. But a much nicer climb being more of the twisty, turny variety, rather than a relentless grind up a straight road. And up it I got! That said I was on the limit a couple of times and made use of a layby off one of the hairpins to catch my breath before the final pull. I also noted much on-road graffiti (keep going! No Pain No Gain! allez! etc.) which seems to be a feature of such hills these days. This one is now advertised as being part of a series around Aberdeenshire - there are signs at the top and bottom with gradient etc. so I guess that's why. Cue more hand ringing by the anti-cycling brigade.
Somewhat gloomy but the rain was now off and the cloud clearing
View north to Clachmaben which I'd climbed back in May
I bombed the descent and turned left off the road (77kph, 80 still alludes me), Char Bothy my destination. There was a car parked at the track end so I figured on at least one other occupant and hatched various plan B's given the drying weather and the possibility of the other occupant being a weirdo. But a stop at a burn for water revealed a cloud of mozzies! Bothy or bust then...
In the event it was unoccupied. Many may appreciate the experience of meeting a stranger in a bothy for a chat and shared experiences but I have to confess I was happy to be only in my own company. I grabbed water and set to making food. There then followed a very pleasant evening eating, reading and sipping some fine Speyside whisky. I reflected on the day thinking that most of it had been a simple progression along a route rather than a particular challenge or other difficulty which seems to be an essential part of cycling these days. All very relaxing though and the final climb did add a bit of spice to the proceedings.
Quite a salubrious bothy although no fire which is why I suspect it sees little overnight use. The visitor book showed lots of day visits but only a few over-nighters, including the MBA who had been in a couple of nights previous.
The next morning dawned sunny so I packed up and high-tailed it to Banchory for a large fried breakfast (and the loo.) I'd plugged a route into the GPS which would take me roughly north to Banff on the Moray coast. Included were a couple of forest sections for some variety. From Banff my plan had been to head for Fochabers and then to Blacksboat by the Speyside Way. But I was already thinking of doing some of the coastal cycle route. I'd see when I got there.
There then followed a lengthy ride through rural Aberdeenshire on pretty much all empty 'U' roads. You are quite close to Aberdeen at first and a couple of B roads I crossed or used for a bit had a bit more traffic but the rest of this quite considerable area was very quiet. Approaching Pitfichie forest I checked the route which was a bit of a loop so decided to miss it out. The next bit looked to be more in line with where I was headed (although I was already starting to lose track of where I was) so I'd do that instead. Before entering the woods I started on a climb signed as the 'Lords Throat' which looked quite interesting so I suspect I'll be back! Anyway I turned off on a small track which quickly deteriorated to a stony, then rocky single track, climbing steeply in a series of switch backs. I'm sick of hearing all these twerps asking 'can you ride a gravel bike on this trail' Don't ask, just try it and see what happens! Of course being singlespeed makes it much easier as you just get off and push... That said I actually got up quite a lot of it and soon enough it emerged on a better track.
Mither Tap - these pointy ex volcanoes are littered across the land hereabouts. The rest is rich rolling farm land with oddly named hamlets at regular intervals - Echt, Monymusk, Durno, Inverythan (Ythan wells is nearby both on the River Ythan. I think there may be some welsh link to these names but it escapes me) being but a few. After this was a fast descent back to the road and then onwards through more rolling countryside. I kept looking for a view of the sea (which in reality was still a ways off) but there seemed to be another ridge of low hills over everyone I climbed.
By the time I reached Turrif I was feeling somewhat weary. Despite the easy terrain, the constant ups and downs were adding up. They are very low but the vertical profile looked like a cardiogram of me on the Cairn O'Mount last night! Turrif revealed itself as a small but slightly faded town with a fine bakers shop that provided a much needed late lunch. The oil industry in nearby Aberdeen has led to much wealth in this area but it's on it's uppers these days and it's starting to show. Goodness knows what the future holds for Aberdeen though given that the oil and gas industry, once seen as the saviour of the economy, is now seen as a pariah to the environment and so doomed... We'll see. I suspect pragmatism will of necessity creep back in so Aberdeen may have a couple more generations of industry.
From Turrif I followed NCN 1 north to Banff on the Moray Coast. I lingered on the prom for a bit watching the sea and decided to abandon my route through yet more rolling countryside to Fochabers and instead follow the coast west to some suitable point for a kip
Looking back to Banff and Macduff
On NCN 1 looking back to Cullen. NCN1 is actually a great route along here - it follows a mix of off-road cycleways along the seafront, longish sections of old railway line and mainly empty back roads. Riding along the coast was extremely pleasant. Waves crashed against the beach to my right, a more relaxing noise you'd be hard to find, and after miles of rich farmland, the Highlands re-established themselves with views north to the Caithness hills. Once again the vagaries of wind changes were favouring me with a gentle breeze helping me on my way. The bike whizzed along underneath me, my low gear requiring minimum effort to keep us moving. Who wants all the hassles of foreign holidays? Not me, not with this going on. One section of the railway path after Cullen is getting a wee bit rough but mostly its great fun and easy going with a long section of tarmac to Buckie.
Gravel-tastic on the way to Findochty
Buckie provided chips and supplies for the rest of the evening and then it was more back roads to this rather fine old railway bridge over the river Spey:
This would have made a good bivvy spot (by the river not on the bridge!) but it was still a bit early. I've been across this a few times so in theory I was on familiar ground but my memories of the distances were vague. NCN1 is mainly well signed with distances as well as directions. Some of the distances indicated were a lot longer than what my failing memory had thought. I could have headed up the Speyside way from here to within a shout of my pals place but decided to keep on east, Culbin forest my thought for a bivvy. But a sign to Elgin at 14 miles and Forres 28 knocked that idea back. I was becoming aware that I'd been on the go for a fair old time so plan B was needed. Roseisle forest, not far out of Elgin was the answer and should be good for a dry and sheltered spot.
Darkness fell on the approach to Elgin and a pleasant surprise was the new cycleway that traced a line along the north side of the town, instead of a convoluted route through it that my old OS mapping was showing. There were actually a fair few nocturnal dog walkers along here but someone had installed illuminated road studs at intervals along the route. As I approached with my eye melting light they came to life and so the peds knew I was coming and scattered (joke.) A few more miles of back road followed then I made a nav bad decision to hit the B road for what I thought would be a more direct route to the woods. Despite the hour a fair bit of traffic was on this road, no idea why! Anyway a couple of miles of this and I turned off into the woods and the main car park, noting both the loo and the burger bar I'd discovered here last year.
I headed west along the coastal path route looking for a spot. I wanted to keep away from the car park and loo but I was feeling pretty weary by now so didn't want to go too far. Having been through here on the fatty a few times I knew the lie of the land and was confident I'd find a good spot. My biggest worry was storm Arwen destruction but there was surprisingly little - odd given its exposed location. I headed for the shore line and found a perfect sheltered hollow. Better yet the sound of waves coming in 50 meters away would be most relaxing. I'd been worried that the mozzies or midges would be about and had a plan in my head to dive into waterproofs and head net before setting too. In the even there were none! It was now 9.30pm and I'd done 120 miles. The tarp went up in lightening fast time as I feared the winged menaces would suddenly appear, but apart from a few moths and other unidentified flying things there was nothing of the biting kind. I sipped some whisky, reflected on a fine day and then bang! Out like a light.
The next morning - sunny again. Typically it had clagged in the previous evening and I'd been in fear of a wet bivvy. In the event I'd again narrowly missed some big showers and got set up dry. A heavy shower had come through later on and the wind did indeed get up at first light, disturbing my repose. I had also been shocked out of a doze by a bright light shining around (at 5am!) I feared night time nutters or poachers but it looked like someone with a head torch going along the nearby coastal path - probably an army type commuting to the nearby Kinloss base.
If I'd waited half an hour I could have had breakfast at the burger bar as the chap was setting up as I exited the loo. Instead I pedaled off into the breeze thinking I'd get to Forres before breakfast. Much fried food fueled me for an easy run over the hill to Knockando on the Spey and a trundle up the railway path / Speyside way to Blacksboat.
A pleasant afternoon and evening followed with R & I. It was somewhat wet the next morning but it cleared by the time I was ready for the off. No drama today, just a leisurely run along to Grantown and Nethy bridge, where I had lunch. A local chap sat down on the table next to me and it turned out he was from Methill originally and remembered the railway line to Leven before it closed. So we chatted about the new line and the prospects it would bring new life to the place. The sun was shining full on so I decide to do Ryvoan as a change. I've not been over this on the Straggler so it would add a bit of interest to what would otherwise be a fairly straightforward route.
Coffee and more food at the Glenmore Cafe then the entertaining blast down the logging road to Coylumbridge. I'd meant to pick up the Speyside way from here but forgot... Oh well, the back road to Insh was quiet and I did the last bit on the 'way to Kingussie. More delays here as I called into Bothy bikes for a catch up with Dave who seems to be enjoying his new locus. A fair few paying customers came and went so it's good to see things are still going well after the pandemic rush for bikes. Yet more food from the Newtonmore co-op preceded further easy pedaling down the A9 cycle route. Despite the ever present traffic on the nearby A9 I enjoyed the riding and the oh so familiar hills up which I've walked and skied quite a bit now. I caught the tail end of a few showers down here and looking back north revealed many just missed black clouds - I've never had such luck with the weather! Over the pass the sky cleared once more and a fine evening looked in prospect.
I reached the turn off to Trinafore as dusk was falling, hoofed it up the climb with ease, my digs not too far away. It's a good spot being not too far off the road and fairly easy to get to. Unlike my last visit all was clear around so I could have tarped it in the woods but I was after an easy time. More food, and 'Goose Island' IPA ended a fine days ride.
Compact but comfy and quite warm.
'Twas quite misty at first light which enabled a stealthy escape but the fog was lifting all around as I passed through Tummel Bridge and up another lengthy climb over to the Tay valley. The cafe at the top of the hill provided Carrot cake and coffee for breakfast - they don't serve anything savoury so needs must. I grabbed a few more snacks then set off into the strengthening sun. Next up was the famously huge climb out of Kenmore. I've not been over this for....30 years?? not far off. I was pleased to get up most of it with only the double arrow section pushed... Near the top a rider was coming the other way. I looked up at him between gasps and realised I recognised him - actually one of four of us that crammed into the breeze block hut next to the Pennine Bridleway above Widdale Head on the 2016 YD300. I even recalled his name (David) - one of the Highland crew who did the route that year. Not bad given my memory these days and very odd really as he shot past so I only had a brief glance and he was gone before I could hail him.
Last view of the hills.
My only bit of (empty) A road bashing took me to the Sma Glen and then home via more wee roads and yet another passage over the Dunning road climb!
Total distance was just over 400 miles. The bike was flawless and I'm really into single speed touring now - it can be hard work on the hills but it makes for very easy riding on the flat and much freewheeling on the many descents. Once again it was all incredibly relaxing, despite the long days, and there is plenty more to do up that way on a future trip.
That's the easy bams over with, although I've had plenty of weather challenges this spring and summer, despite the fab weather. The BB300 is next and I suspect my weather luck is about to run out. But after the heat of the summer I'm quite looking forward to some cool autumn bivvies.
