Centuries and double centuries

Riding a hundred miles on a bike in a day still has something of a mystique amongst (road) cyclists. For a bikepacker, the off-road century is a must-do thing, and much harder. Doing five and a half in a row even more so! Despite various escapades in Scotland and Wales on various ITT's, many over a 100 miles, a road / gravel century is still something I like to do, always starting from the house using one of five circuits I've figured out over the years. All are largely on back roads, cycleways and the odd easy trail. The appeal is the amount of ground you can cover and the changing landscapes as you progress round the route. 

So far this year I've done three of them (one twice) as well as a bonus century riding south the other week. Non cyclists still seem to regard this as a huge distance to cycle but compared to the BB300, it's a straightforward undertaking. I'm at the point where I can just gather my gear together, jump on the bike and knock one out with little thought, using whatever of my routes the wind favours. It's all in the pacing, something I've got off to a fine art. And eating of course!

A few years ago I upped the ante and did a double century on a fab route up to and round Loch Rannoch then back again. I'd thought to repeat the route this year at some point and midsummer seemed the perfect opportunity. At one point I was going to do the 'run to the sun' ride from Carlisle to Edinburgh. But logistics to get there were a hassle and riding down would involve a lot of rainy headwinds. My usual midsummer overnighter also got canned due to the aforementioned rain - I've been rained on enough this year! So a day ride it was. A variation taking in the roads and hills east of the Tay valley was considered but this would lead me back though Perth. The nice thing with the route I did in '21 was that the last fifty-odd miles were all on quiet back roads, well off tourist routes and largely traffic free. This would be my route. 

So off we go. As I had breakfast the sun was already shining so I even slathered on sun tan cream in the face of a very sunny forecast. The wind was of mild concern as it was from the west which might throw a few headwinds at me at inconvenient points. But the route has a few bail out options so I figured to get going and see what happened.

A promising start - the Trossach hills in all their sunny glory. However the forecasted 'breeze' was a stiff wind. The route west is fairly sheltered though so it was of little issue at this stage.

At Callander the sun beat down and I stripped off arm warmers and gillet. Twenty odd miles of NCN 7 followed and I was a shade concerned about the amount of cloud around when I hit my first stopping point at the Killin Co-op. The next thing I new a fine dreich blew in and the sky darkened. Of course I'd not got a proper waterproof with me, on the strength of (two) weather forecasts.... It blew through quickly enough and as I left (Arm warmers and gillet back on) I ignored bail out number one (south Loch Tay road - 145 miles) and cracked on into a stiff breeze up Glen Lochay. The pubil climb took me away from a lot more murk looking west and a few more sprinkles came in but I was hopeful it would brighten up away from the westernmost point of the route.  

23 tailwind and gravity assisted miles down Glen Lyon revived me somewhat. I was not really feeling weary, just aware of the efforts I was putting in to that point, thanks to the wind. The sun re-appeared and thoughts of bail out number 2 (straight down to Ballinluig on NCN 7 - 165 miles) evaporated.

Even the climb out of Strath Tay didn't put me off as I hoofed up it in fine style, noting this was where I'd had a big energy dip the last time. The bright skies persisted on the Schiehallion road, this pointy peak cloud free. Better yet the feared headwind on this road wasn't, thanks to the vagaries of the terrain. I passed halfway here and noted with concern I was a half hour later than when I'd done the route in 2021, despite leaving the house 25 minutes earlier. I had 3 hours extra daylight however!

At this point you pass within half a mile of the return from the circuit of Loch Rannoch. Missing this would be the last bail out - 175 miles. But looking west revealed a generally brighter prospect than earlier, so on we go, commitment made.

Being fairly conical, Schiehallion was used by Nevil Maskelyne to estimate the weight of the earth in 1774. A few goes had been made at this but as Schiehallion is isolated from other hills the gravitational effect of it would not be skewed by other large lumps. To this point things were going well - the headwind heading west up the south road had largely been blocked by the woods. Plus I saw precisely no-one other than a couple of cars and camper vans. On the north road I commenced another lengthy tail wind leg - 31 miles this time - passing 200k on the way. As I'd turned the corner at the top end of the Loch I felt a certain liberation - all I had to do was ride home by whatever means...

The roadside laybys were full up - more campers than I'd seen when I was last here. It seemed a little more restrained than the anarchy that had developed here in the '90's but I dread to think of the mess being left behind. A few cars were around as people raced for the last spots, which I hoped to leave behind on the fine Loch Tummel road. This too was rammed with campers, every designated car park full and a few others wedged with cars and vans. I did note one had a parking ticket though!

On the final climb of this undulating road I diligently blocked a following camper van. As I crested the rise I glanced back at the drivers frown and disappeared down a fine, twisty descent, outpacing it by a mile. The effort required to do this caused a few grumbles from my legs but I'd successfully moderated my usual mid afternoon low spot by constant snacking. Contact points were OK and a minor twinge from my left knee had receded.

So Pitlochry at last noting I was still around 45 minutes later than my previous ride, so much for the tailwind speeding me up a bit! One final feed and a few things stashed for the final fifty-odd miles. Better still, the sun was still showing it's face and the sheltered route kept the wind off me. This had been of concern earlier as the last 40 miles would be into it. In the event, a combination of high hedges and various twists and turns meant it was of little impediment.

Contemplating the last climb out of Dunning was far worse than doing it. I'd fully recovered from my earlier efforts by now and got up it with only token protest from my 195 mile legs, the light fading and cloud gathering. But whilst there was rain around, I avoided it and finally, at 10.20pm, arrived home.

So the hour I'd lost in the first half of the ride was maintained to the end. I suspect the stiff westerly wind was largely to blame, although my digestive system played a part, needing to visit every loo I passed. That said overall stopped time was an hour and a half which is not much more than the last time. Despite having done such horrors as the BB300, I still felt a large sense of achievement as I cracked a beer and ate food before ten hours of sleep. The large amount of pedaling (as opposed to pedaling and walking) didn't throw up any major aches or pains. The aero bars were a boon and largely why my wrists, shoulders and hands are pain free as I type this. If I do this again, I'll be a bit more selective wind wise. After the last time I speculated about doing a 250 which  may still do at some point, albeit with a snooze somewhere!

KY12 to DL5 (and June BAM)

I was wanting to visit my folks at the start of a 2 week holiday so figured a bike ride down there was the thing to do. In a way it's unfinished business as in 1991, I tried to ride down there from Edinburgh in a oner and failed, largely thanks to a horrible cold but also due to taking the A68/697 which isn't the best way of doing the journey. That said, in 1992 on that years 'Watt Wheelers' midsummer ride, we did end up at Darlington (via Kielder) so I kind of did it back then...

In recent years I've played around with a few route options, west-ish and east-ish, so decided to take an option on both - down through the Borders and then back via Northumberland. As per, the weather forecast was somewhat variable but stiff north westerleys would largely favour me so off we go. I had thought of using the GB duro route for the first bit as I can get to it in 10k from home. But this was a bit out the way and would involve a couple of large dirt road passes, plus the weather suggested east would be dryer than west. So instead I crossed the bridge and headed through Edinburgh via various cycleways, quiet and busy streets. A very weird thing happens sometime after you cross the bridge - people ignore you. So in Fife, or elsewhere, when you pass another cyclist, you both exchange waves, Hi's, salutes or nods. Not in Edinburgh - everyone ignores you. This also applies to peds - on a Fife cycleway, you ting your bell, make sure they are aware of you, ride passed and say cheers, hi, or thanks. In Embra, just blaze past them. If you say 'Cheers' or 'thanks' they give you a funny look (or ignore you as they have headphones in.) I hate this place. A billion teenagers here to see some second rate fake popstar were also successfully avoided....

Anyway, after grinding my way up Lasswade Road I picked up a mighty fine cycleway which was curiously empty. I jumped off it at Loanhead for food sat in the sun and then rejoined it, recalling this was yet another of the many routes I built when I worked for Sustrans, over the Bilston Glen viaduct. It was all in fine condition and carried me onwards to Rosslyn, made famous after that utterly crap book about the holy grail...

Beyond here I linked onto a series of backroads to the hills. This was the route the WW (i.e. the Uni cycling club) used to get to the Borders. I've since been on it a few times on the motorbike but this is the first time cycling for many, many years. The complete lack of traffic was a welcome relief after all that city riding. Then off up the first of the routes proper climbs over the Moorfoots.

Looking back across Midlothian to Embra - quite a nice route all in all. This is on the B709 - a fabulous B road which goes all the way to Langholm. And this was my goal - to ride it in it's entirety, something I'd not actually ever done before. It's a cracker as most of it is largely empty of traffic, and the scenery is very pleasant.

Food was bought and eaten at Innerleithen, which now seems to be jam packed with full bounce e-bikes, the riders of which all seemed to scowl at me. I think they are trying too hard... South of Innerleithen is probably the nicest bit, over another largeish climb, then down through forestry and farm land to Tuishielaw. I stopped in the pub for a pint as I was way ahead of my predicted schedule and already thinking of alternative bivvy spots to a potential tin shed I'd spied on aerial photos. 

A leisurely trundle up the Ettrick water followed. I spied the shed I'd planned to use but the wind had done for it so just as well I wasn't relying on it! There are a couple more nearby as well as Dryfhead and Greensykes bothies, but after a few sprinkles and plenty of big clouds around, the sky had cleared again so I figured a bivvy was the way to go. I'd fully prepared to be well rained on but as per my ride a few weeks ago, narrowly missed various rain clouds and only caught a couple of sprinkles.

I topped out eventually (an easy climb, many hereabouts just make height steadily over many miles) and contemplated what I'd done, and the views.

So off we go, down the Esk valley. Soon enough I came upon Samye Lings Tibetan Monastery. I first encountered this on a clear and crisp February day which seemed appropriate. Seeing such a thing in the warm evening sunshine (or the rain) doesn't. It's been here for many years and has become a Borders institution attracting many rich idiots who have stressed themselves out, and are now seeking enlightened karma. They just need to buy a bike...

Watch out Budda, there's a big snake gonna get ya!

Of course history students will know that Buddism is far from free of hideous violence in the quest for domination, much like all religions.

Soon after you pass the Eskdalemuir Schoolhouse cafe, a fabulous place. I'd checked this out on line as I'd originally figured I'd get Sunday breakfast here, however it was now 6.30pm on Saturday. I knew the cafe would be long shut but the website went on about having a drinks license until 12am... It was a vane hope so imagine my grin when I saw that it was open for a pizza and pasta night! Oh yes, 2 slices and a bottle of ale please!

Some time later, I pedaled off under more dark clouds and an odd spot of rain. I piled into the first bit of woods I encountered and turned the bivvy radar full on. A bit of nosing around found a well sheltered spot in the trees. Up with the tarp and in, 148k done. Relaxation followed but there was an odd midge about so I kept in the bivvy bag.

It rained most of the night but eased off as I nibbled some (cold) breakfast and contemplated my next moves.

An OK spot and the sun was shining on me as I left. More pleasant pedaling followed down the Esk to Langholm. This place was a major disappointment however as nothing was open. I'd hoped for a cafe at least but there was nowt, not even a Co-op which is very odd for such a place. The garage provided a coffee at least and fortunately I had plenty of snacks with me. 

Now I'd left myself an option to add another night into the proceedings taking me into the Yorkshire Dales. But the weather wasn't looking good unless I went east plus I was keen to get to Mum and Dad's that evening. So after (yet again) giving up on the OS app, I fired up OSM and noted various cycle routes which would help me to get to Alston, from where I'd be able to hop over the bump to Teesdale, thence home.

So off again, along more back roads, as used a few times on the Motorbike, with a couple of short cuts on some fab single trackers. My heart and stomach was set on a cafe at Greenhead I'd spied on just such a motorbike trip earlier this year. Some time later I arrived, only to find it was also shut on a Sunday!! Fortunately the village hall next door had a farmers market on with tea and coffee.

The wall. There was actually a bit of cycleway up by the road which is impressive. Soon after I left this to drop into Haltwhistle where (thank Hadrian) there was a fab little cafe on the High street. Fried food and tea followed then it was more NCN to Alston. This was (mostly) good but typical NCN - lots of good route but with odd crap bits that spoiled it somewhat.

This viaduct was a belter but someone had extended there garden over the old line beyond it so you had to scramble down some steps and up a steep hill to the main road. Along this for a bit then a steep descent back to 100 yards from the viaduct... Hey ho. Further frustrations came in the form of yet another random puncture - no thorn or glass or nails, just some unknown spike jabbing into the tyre and a spray of sealant. Despite a small hole it wouldn't seal so I had to ram a plug in, which enlarged the hole so the plug didn't, so I had to ram another one in, which didn't seal, etc etc.

More gravelling followed and a nice back road to Alston. The last time I'd been here on a bike was in 1991 at the end of an epic tour which involved many miles, running out of money and a horrible 100 mile ride east into a headwind to Carlisle YH. The next day I staggered along the A689 (no cycleway in those days) to Alston with no food. On realising I was spent, I put my last 10p into a phone box, phoned my Mum asking to rescue me (pips went before she replied) and collapsed in the town centre rotunda hoping she would come to get me (she did, bless her.) So today, I was in a much better state and grabbed a last snack from the Co-op before the final 40 miles.

This started with the fearsome climb over to Yad Moss, reminiscing over many ski escapades here in my youth. I got up it at a steady SS cadence, looking at blue sky to the east and much cloud to the west, justification for cutting the ride short.

Cross and Dun Fell, much hated by GB Duro riders.

Looking down Teesdale and contemplating nigh on 13 miles of tailwind assisted descent.

One last heave out of Teasdale and then another 10 mile descent to West Auckland and a short hop to Mum and Dad's from there, 167k done.

After a couple of days of hard labour at Mum and Dads, I came home, but in the face of another iffy forecast and the opportunity of a cheap train ticket home I took the easy option of a train from Darlo to Embra. It all went well but Azuma trains bike spaces are **** Just as well I've abandoned my plan to do the GB Duro this year as my Jones would not fit in this space.

Leaving Embra was a struggle. Millions of glaikit tourists, a total change to the road layout and fucking tramlines made it somewhat hazardous. In my youth this was sport but these days it's just to much risk for not enough gain. There are lots of fancy new cycleways but a few bits seemed to disappear, the signs were tiny (and one pointed the wrong way) and the route convoluted. Plus ca change. I fought my way out eventually and finally contemplated the fair kingdom of Fife with a huge sigh of relief.

Not TLS as the low temps demanded I threw in some extra layers, not really needed in the event, thanks to getting colossally lucky with the weather once more. As per, the Stragg ate it all for breakfast. I keep contemplating something more exotic but nothing else out there quite meets my exacting needs; and the stragg just keeps delivering. It may be a bit heavy but it's idiot proof, tough, and no-one will try to nick it.

One last snack in Inverkeithing in the sun then a leisure trundle up the final miles.

I'll do the Northumberland variant next time as it looks mighty fine but I now need to do some mountain biking!

A Ride North

A mate who I'd not seen for a while was throwing a do at his Highland Estate (500 acres) this weekend. Originally I was just going to go up on a motorbike but in view of my somewhat low mileage this month, thanks to a weekend off the bike due to music things happening, I figured on pedaling up. The weather forecast was less than inspiring for the Friday at least which was monumentally frustrating as my music weekend involved lots of sitting on coaches and in concert halls whilst the sun split the sky. 

However, the forecasted damp day on Friday wasn't and the weather radar on the Beeb seemed to suggest an improving picture throughout the evening. I confidently predicted a deluge to start when I left, however in actual fact the sun came out, Briefly. Of course cresting the first hill out of the village I viewed a large cloud slowly progressing west along the line of the Ochills and looking north revealed many more. But to the east it was much brighter so I cracked on. I had thought of going up the A9 route but I was aiming for a tin shed I'd previously used, which meant the hillier route via Aberfeldy and Loch Rannoch.

There then followed a very nice bike ride - the joy of riding until last light on an overnighter. The route is nice but not adventurous - all on road and many A roads at that. But they were largely devoid of traffic and it made for extremely pleasant riding through fine Perthshire scenery. I also managed to miss some very large clouds. Every climb revealed more cloud but other than a few sprinkles I remained dry. I was passed by three lads on 125's going  up the Sma Glen, something you rarely see these days. When I was that age there were 100's and 125's everywhere. They were stopped at the picnic area so I actually rode over to have a brief chat and reminisce - they probably thought I was a silly old fart!

Descending down to Aberfeldy revealed a wall of black cloud to the west and North. It was slowly moving away from me but I figured I would ride right into it at my current pace. The Co-op provided food and a beer for later and I guess if I'd hung on for half an hour it would have dried up but I pushed on as I wanted to reach my digs before dark O'clock. I did almost run into the back of the rain but, apart from some drizzle, missed the lot - the roads were awash!

I hoofed it up the climb out of Coshieville and it brightened up as the light was fading, on the descent to Loch Rannoch. Climbing the last hill, I ended up taking my jacket off again and I even thought of bivvying. But everywhere was extremely damp after the rain, and whilst the midge forecast was saying it would only be level 1 up here it looked like a perfect midge night. Eventually I got to the turn off to my favourite tin hut just as it got dark and as expected no-one else was in residence.

Small but perfectly formed and a godsend at the end of a longish ride. I had a pleasant hour or so drinking, eating and reading, reflecting on a fab evening - 100k in five and a half hours -  before turning in. 

I was up fairly sharp as I had the same again to do that day. It was still quite grey as I hoofed it up the climb out of Trinafore and over to the A9. 

Cloud over the Gaik pass and Large pylons - the controversial Beauly-Denny power line. Some amount of fuss was made when this was going in but in fact the expected 'giant' pylons ended up as these things which also replaced two sets of small pylons along the same line.

Then it was up the cycle route to Kingussie.

The old road sections were getting a bit rough when I was coming down here a couple of years ago but this bit has been re-surfaced - 7.5m wide, all for bikes! So the whole route is now tarmac and a pretty good route all in all. The A9 is ever present but you are away from it for the most part.

The weather brightened as the morning progressed, I had a fine breakfast at the cafe in Dalwhinnie and called into Bothy bikes in Kingussie to have a chat with Dave. The sun came out as I left, at last, and I did a fine few miles on the Speyside way (hero gravel) before trundling up the back road to Aviemore. I was a bit early for the do so sat in the sun at the Bridge Inn having a couple of pints. Then off along the Dalfaber to Boat of Garten Cycleway - another one of my creations - followed by food and coffee in the sun outside the shop. I got to my friends place at 2 and much social pleasantness followed.

My mate gave us a tour of his property in a rather fine tracked truck. We also put in a couple of owl boxes on poles so a very active weekend.

Total distance 210k so my May mileage is looking a bit more like it. Mega negative karma today though as I got a lift home with a mate!

Cairngorms Tour and May BAM

I've been hoping to get up to the Cairngorms for a weekend all year. In fact all of last year too. This was on the back of my fab March 2022 weekend doing a variation on the classic Cairngorms tour. But the rubbish weather has kept me away - it's a feature of being so close to the area that I only want to ride there if it's sunny!

As noted in my last post, it was snowy and cold that weekend but finally, out of the blue came a sunny forecast for this weekend. And hot! 20 degrees plus! No more freezing your (whatever) off whilst cold rain sprays into your face!

I ruminated on various options starting in Blair Atholl, gateway to much good riding and the start of the Cairngorms Loop and Tour routes; and only an easy hours drive away. At first I was going to do the whole weekend adding in a loop round Ben Alder but then the weather started going on about torrential rain and thunderstorms on the Sunday, not something I wanted to experience in a mountain range. Also the Caledonia etape was on, on the Sunday, so the drive home would be slow. Therefore I figured on doing the basic Cairngorms tour, which at 200k and a mere 2500m climbing should be straightforward for a Friday evening, all day Saturday ride. And it was

TLS load out ready to go. 

After the usual bit of trail then 10 miles of road then cycleway I hit the dirt up the Gaik pass, the sun beating down and a stiff breeze shoving me along - bliss! After a hellish few months at work I was properly due this one

Heading up the strath.

When you do the first ride of the year round here it's always slightly nerve wracking wondering what damage the winter storms have done. We've had some killers since last October so I was expecting carnage. Beside the river there was certainly a lot of debris, obviously deposited by flood water, but the track was clear and I was pleased to see the river was still going under the pipe bridge after it had been restored in 2020.

I got it horribly wrong on the first bit of single track. Despite much dry weather the bogs were still present. I figured one would be best ridden through straight as there should be a hard bottom, so to speak. There was until I was in the middle whereupon the front wheel disappeared up to the disk in quality glop. I tried to heave it out but it was firmly glued in place. Where to put my foot? Into a similar bog, up to calf depth. After flailing about a bit I managed to extricate me and bike and then set to cleaning gunge off boot, (waterproof) sock and leg. Fortunately, although the boot was damp inside the waterproof sock had done it's job and my tootsies were dry.

Salvaging the remains of my dignity I proceeded. After this the single track was largely dry and huge fun. I'd been moaning to myself about my lack of rock riding in recent months so this got me back into the swing. Then a steady ride down the glen on the improving track as the sun sank. I was up for riding until dark and originally I'd figured I'd stop in the Gaik itself, or one of the side glens. However I was making good progress so figured the woods out of Drumguish would do.

Sun setting oh so slowly, a month and a bit out of the equinox. 

Turns out the woods wouldn't do as between the trees was dense heather, a tick haven. In the end I went for the spot I'd used in 2022 and had a horrible mozzie experience. I was largely confident they wouldn't be up and about yet as it had been -5 here the other week. The midge forecast hasn't even kicked off yet. I'd stopped a couple of times to test the air, so to speak, but whilst there were a few flying things about, nothing of the biting kind. My spot was next to a locked Bothy - Baileguish - on short grass in it's lea but still a bit breezy to offer further defense against any winged menaces. It was 10.10pm as I turned in. I nearly went bivvy bag only, but there was a fair bit of cloud about plus there would likely be a lot of dew as the temps dropped so up went the tarp and a pleasant evening followed.

Top spot, if there are no horrible flying biting things.

Departure was at 7.30 am (hardcore compared to my usual casual BAM mornings) and off I went up through Inshriach and Rothiemurchus forests. Dry trails, heat and sun - heaven! Better yet, given the early hour there was hardly anyone about so I felt my pace creeping up to make best use of this rare combo.

Glen more cafe provided breakfast as I contemplated more fab trails - one of my favourite sections of the route over Ryvoan to Abernethy then lots of fun trails to Dorback, then the usual ups and downs to Tomintoul. Off I went, hammering the still quiet trails, and ignoring the distance I had to do. At one point I blasted past a group of guys doing the same route but over three days. They were all loaded up with lots of bags and rucksacks - TLS guys!

The Egg path - last done on that infamous Cairngorms Loop group start in 2020.

I had a bit of route faffing in Glen Brown, trying to overthink it. I also managed to get my other boot wet thanks to the slippy rocks on one of the several burn crossings. The heat was building on the climb up to Tomintoul so a cold drink was in order. Then more fried food to fuel me up the long strath of glen Avon. The wind was of concern as it had gotten quite breezy but it must have been more west than south as I made much better progress up the glen than last September when the headwind was a blaster. I was really getting into my stride on the Loch Builg singletrack, a fixed grin on my face as this was shaping up to be a fabulous ride.  Up the Cullardoch climb was a bit arduous as the miles were starting to make there presence felt (and my enthusiastic pace.) But I had a good blast down the other side and decided to miss Braemar and the road riding out to head direct to Linn of Dee.

This was tremendously exciting - an adder! Better still, after the usual transition from smooth doubletrack to rough doubletrack to singletrack, I surprised another one (Male this time) which hissed at me before slithering into it's burrow. I'd hoped to stop for a final feed at White bridge but someone had beaten me to it. Next option was by the Geldie but a couple were ensconced there. It looked a bit iffy as the storms of last year have started to wreck the nice smooth bed the river has followed for the last 8 years since storm Frank in 2016. There was also a fair bit of water in it - nothing drastic but indicative of the fact that everything was still pretty wet... I don't like having an audience but a certain amount of determination and 29+ got me through dry. Finally by the Bynack burn I found a suitable rock to sit on and ate the last of my food.

Looking back to the cairngorms - this is a fav spot of mine

About to drop into the Tilt descent.

This was, as usual, a hoot. Clouds were gathering but I seemed to bypass them down the glens twists and turns. Every time I ride this trail I seem to find another challenge. I cleaned a few killer sections and fluffed some others - but all in all a fab run. Then the transition back to rough double track, smooth track then motorway standard estate road back to the start. It's a great way to finish and I contemplated what I'd just done as I cruised down the last few miles, a large grin on my face. Definitely one to remember and a fine opportunity grabbed. I've ridden these trails numerous times but in a way it just makes it all the more enjoyable - no adventure here, just lots of fun!

And a good ride - 195k in total in about 13 hours ride time.

More Fife wanderings and April BAM

Still no Cairngorm trip this month as it was looking like winter would be having another go up there this weekend. So instead I went with another tour of the fair Kingdom of Fife. Last August I did the southern bit of the coastal path out (well about half of it) and an inland route back. This time I went with the Northern section using a route I'd plotted a couple of years ago but never ridden in its entirety. Basically due north to the hills, turn right, keep going until you run out of land - about 100k - then back by the Pilgrims way - a further 100k!

This is what you are up against: rolling hills with a mix of forestry, natural woodland and farmland. The clear blue sky took a while to appear as I set out into gathering clouds and got rained on within 5 minutes of departure.... I then narrowly missed several downpours, only catching a few sprinkles before it finally cleared. I progressed East, reveling in riding fine (and dry) trails in the sunshine. There was a stiff easterly breeze but this would give me a helpful shove homewards the next day.

A particularly fine bit of trail along the Tay coast - all very easy but lots of twists, turns and occasional tree roots make it much fun.

The silvery Tay....

Shortly after this I hit the chippy at Newport which is a cracker - a fish tea was consumed sat in the evening sun. The Co-op provided supplies for later and the next day; and then it was the final easy miles along the coast to Tentsmuir forest. Now the last time I bivvied here I got savaged by mosquitos and had a truly horrible night. I knew it was far too cold for them today so bivvy spot finding involved scoping out the first likely spot and pitching up, guaranteed bug free. It's all pretty level and you can choose between grassy hillside, dense sitka or spaced out pine, depending on the weather. I went with a sheltered spot by a fire break in the hope I'd get some sun the next morning. 

Bivvy set up take 1. I had a very pleasant evening sipping beer and reading, whilst listening to various nightly noises, then turned in, confident that it would be a dry night so no need for the tarp...

Last September on the last night of my Mounth tour, I was similarly ensconced in a wood near Pitlochry. At one point I dreamed it was raining and woke with a start, only to see stars overhead. So I was somewhat shocked this night to have a dream that it was raining, only to wake up to find it was.... raining!

Fortunately my tarp was handy so I grabbed head torch, unzipped (totally non-waterproof) bivvy bag, ripped out the tarp and spread it over me and then dragged on jacket and boots, got out and got the tarp up in record time. Phew, I laid back in my slightly damp bivvy and relaxed once more. Then the rain went off....

Bivvy set up take 2 - it did actually rain a bit more a couple of times so that will teach me to believe a weather forecast! The dawn chorus was deafening but I snoozed some more and then had a leisurely breakfast before departing into the sun. 

And came across this - a couple of static caravans which looked like the usual hippy / off grid set up, but with a load of female mannikins posed around the place wearing various evening dress....Odd.

As I departed the forest, darker clouds were around, so I went with a fairly direct route home through the Howe of Fife via various easy tracks and back roads (and the Greggs at Cupar for breakfast part 2), finishing with an assault on the Lomond hills (after breakfast part 3 from the bakers in Falkland), which I've not ridden for ages, thanks to the horrible weather. Today, my bike ended up covered in dust! At one point I was hailed a by a chap on a rigid singlespeed who recognised my bike from Bikepacking.com's 'Bikes of the Highland Trail' no-one ever recognises me, just my weird bolide....

More sunshine over Loch Leven and the Ochills. That little lot came to 200k so I'm well pleased as my bike riding has been a bit hit or miss this year so far. May next and yet another pledge to hit the Cairngorms....

March Bivvy

Fair to say the weather since my last BAM has been a bit hit and miss, mainly miss. My bike riding has been somewhat curtailed as I've been down to Mum and Dads a fair bit this month as Dad is having a very hard time recovering from a knee opp and both needed some moral support. "The last one wasn't like this!" he said. You were 56 then Dad, not 83... 

I've managed a couple of longer rides and plenty of commuting so my mileage tally is no worse than other years, but I am itching to get somewhere less local and more mountainous!

A fine day (more or less) round Loch Rannoch. Alan Goldsmith had asked me to check out a track which avoids the wrecked bridge the route usually crosses out of Rannoch forest so an ideal excuse to do this fine circuit.

The bridge itself is fine, the abutment looks to have settled somewhat thanks to scour around it's base... Once upon a time it would have been partially barriered off and folk could take their chances, but we seem to be getting more risk averse in recent years. Annoyingly the gate into the forest is locked so no chance of people making their own judgements as to whether they can cross.

Anyway, with Dad currently safely in a respite care home for now this weekend was clear. The weather up North looked a bit iffy for Saturday and I had a ton of stuff to do in any case so local it was.

Even less imaginatively I used the same spot as last month. I'd thought of heading deeper into the woods but the prospect of a rare sunny day for the Sunday meant somewhere with a morning view was needed and this one would be perfect. A mighty fine night followed relaxing after fraught family dealings and total mayhem at work. Hazy Jane helped....

Dawn brought forth a deafening dawn chorus, which was nice, spring seems to have started! Then I snoozed some more and woke up thanks to screaming motorcycles on the Glen Devon road, at 8.30. I'd no idea if is this was GMT, BST, or TT but I didn't care, had a leisurely breakfast and headed for the hills

The view, faded out due to the sun!

Top spot this, in fact nicer than my more usual spot further east, which doesn't have a view. But it needs an easterly or else the rain comes in through the trees, as I found in August 2021. That said there wasn't a breath of wind all night and I could hear the clank of the nearby windfarm.

Look, it's still winter! In fact there were some bigger bits of snow on various north facing slopes, but as the saying goes - enough to be noticeable but not enough to be of any use.

Looking more wintery on the high hills up north, but for the first time since 2010 I've not been able to get skiing at all this winter. Opportunities were there but only if I could sneak away from work during the week, which has not been an option, sadly.

Later on I dragged the Triumph (motorcycle) out for some pleasantly quiet burbling around various back roads in the sun - why announce your presence to the entire world?

Back to easterly dreich tomorrow and mebbes even more winter so glad to have got a dry one in. Hopefully Cairngorms next month but all is in flux until fatha is safely home.

The Alternative Winter Event '24 (and Feb BAM)

So once again Shaffiq on the Bearbones forum kindly organised an alternative winter event for those unable to make the real one in Wales. I'm in for the Welsh Ride Thing this year so two trips down there in three months seemed a bit much. As per last year, protagonists get paired up with somebody, send them a handful of grid references in their local area, get some yourself, then ride round and bag them all.

As it happened, like last year, I had to send Shaff a load round the Peaks and Justin, fellow Scottish Winter Bivvy crew member, sent me mine. I provided a bit of guidance and inevitably, my local hills were Justin's focus, as they had been when John sent me GR's last year. 

I'd grabbed a Friday off work in the vain hope I'd get some skiing, but after a spectacularly crap winter, and some truly horrible weather, the temps were once again on the rise and there was nothing worth traipsing up a hill for, other than for walking or biking. So on the strength of a mild and dry(ish) forecast, I figured I'd go out and bag my GR's - 10 points all within a reasonable shout of home. After a certain amount of map gazing, I plotted a route to take them all in with a couple of options depending on how timings worked out - roughly 80 miles and a chunk of climbing, including the local high point on the summit of Ben Cleuch at 725m, on a variety of surfaces. After a leisurely morning and pack up of bike I got going, just after 12.

First trail, a nice single track by the Black Devon, a river I'd encounter a few times over the weekend along with it's big brother, the Devon. Note sun, not seen much of this of late and it made an already mild day positively spring-like.

GR1, listed as 'The Sunken Garden,' by Gartmorn Reservoir. Been past this loads of time and never noticed! Jones looking reasonably svelte given the mild temps, so yet again no winter gear or snowy bivvy. The made trail by the res was properly slurry-like so rather than follow it round it's north shore I cut through Alloa and due West, linking up with the River Devon just near where it emerges at the Forth. Later I would pass it's source.

Sunshine looking up to GR6 and a few bits of snow only - actually more than this time last year but still very little, hence me using the Jones rather than the Ice Cream Truck. I can actually see the summit of Ben Cleuch from my upstairs bedroom window so I can accurately gauge snow levels!

After various cycleways and trails (and more mud) I entered the grounds of Stirling Uni, GR2 on the bridge over the pond. A fair bit of route faffing ensued as it wasn't at all obvious how to get round the place. It was rammed with young people (obviously) and I felt slightly out of place until I passed some local dog walkers.

Quick snap before anyone wondered what I was doing. Wallace (as in Bill) Monument behind, also visible from my bedroom window if I lean out!

A bit more route faffing got me back to where I'd been earlier and then I backtracked a ways before commencing the days first of several large climbs up the flanks of Dumyat. I could have hoofed it straight up the Sheriffmuir road out the back of the Uni, but instead did this lengthy diversion off the straight route in a quest to maximise dirt time! The track up here used to be pretty rough and often covered in cow shit but it's recently all been planted with trees (mixed I'm pleased to say) and the track done up so it's now a good all weather through route, paralleling the one on the opposite side of the valley I'd first done last year.

I joined the Sheriffmuir road eventually after a fair bit of huffing and puffing and then spied my next GR, The Atlantic Wall. This, somewhat amusingly, is a length of concrete wall and bunkers built during the war after spies sussed out the German beach defenses and re-created them here (of all places) so they could practice blowing hell out of them, in order to determine how easy it would be to breach said defenses during the Normandy Landings. The Military had quite a presence hereabouts back then - there are various bits of infrastructure still just about visible, included a bombing range.

GR3 - One of the bunkers. Inevitably I gauged it's value as a bivvy spot but concluded that I would never be that desperate!

The remains of the wall. Well and truly hammered!

GR4 was advertised as 'Lifting Stones.' Apparently these are located all over Scotland so that brawny young people can prove their mettle by lifting them. Given my age and dodgy back, I'd no intention of indulging in such nonsense but in the event I could find no sign of them or the stone circle marked on the map at the same location....

I missed a further road section and two crossings of the A9 by following a track past three empty farms. I first passed this way 10 years ago and couldn't figure why they were empty, only to twig that this whole hillside is owned by Highland Spring as it's where they lift their water from. Although some of the land is still farmed, most of it is empty of livestock to avoid polluting the spring water (which is manifestly not 'Highland'!) One house was getting done up the last time I passed, but it was still empty. Another had been demolished and the final one looked about ready to fall down. A shame as I'm sure someone would live there if they were offered up for sale. Anyway, I splashed along the track down to the road and then started up an oft used climb which is a real killer on singlespeed - not steep enough to warrant a push but steep enough to require a big effort to get up. I was feeling a bit weary by this point and further climbing was in the offing so walked a chunk of it...

Upper Glen Devon Res, the source of the River Devon and my water supply. It's just over the watershed from the Highland Spring infrastructure so in effect, I get Highland Spring water out of my tap!

Scottish Water actually have a campaign to get people to drink tap water rather than buying over priced bottles of what is effectively the same stuff (up here and the North of England at least) even putting public drinking fountains back in! Of interest is the trail, which is a cracker.

GR5, or thereby. It's actually in the res itself - I'd mentioned to Justin I had a packraft! In the event I wasn't going to be humpfing another 5 kg with me so this was a close as I got. Another stone circle lurks under the water apparently. Last year this had been a very small puddle and the old walls, farm remains and road were visible. Full up today! 

This trail popped me out at the dam. I crossed this and faced something of a dilemma. GR 6 was just in view, the summit of Ben Cleuch. This would be the best point to stage an ascent from, being at 400m, plus I could use the windfarm track for a chunk of the climb. But it was now quarter to five and 6 would be Dark O'Clock. Not a big problem but from the summit it would be an hour or more to my next GR, in the grounds of Glen Eagles House and I figured wandering through with lights a'blaze might lead to adverse comment (and a rifle shot...) But if I missed this climb out I'd inevitably bottle doing it the next day and fail. So with little thought I turned the bars right and started up. 

GR6, 725m AOD. The climb actually went OK, the only annoying detail was mist flowing over the hill after it having been in the sun all day. That said it cleared somewhat at the top revealing the Forth valley and lots of lights. It was still largely light but heading down, darkness quickly fell. I ruminated on whether to keep on route and miss GR7 but on a whim decided to change course and head off the south side of the hills to get food at the Dollar co-op. I'd then ride up to my bivvy spot (close to GR 8) then grab it and 7 the next day. This would mean a loop and extra miles but would get me to my bivvy spot the quickest. A lengthy descent followed (yet another pair of Uber pads burnt out) with two substantial climbs thrown in. As had been the case all day, the trail was properly soggy. My feet were feeling damp and the bike plastered in gunge...

Dollar Co-op provided a cold tea and a couple of beers for later. Then off up the back road, a bit of main road (quiet as it's shut just east of my current location) and up the Dunning road, finally entering the woods of Glen Devon Forest at 8. There was a hint of rain in the air so I pushed on but got to the spot dry (dry!), got the tarp up sharpish and collapsed into my bag with some relief, having just ridden 90k in 8 hours. But all in all a great day and all in the dry (!!!) in spite of a somewhat marginal forecast.

Top spot this but only in an easterly. By rights there should be a good view but I woke to low cloud, mist and drizzle. It had rained (lightly) for most of the night but my labours of the previous day, plus the beer, led to a solid 8 hours kip. I had a leisurely breakfast then got going just after 10. 

GR7, the amusingly named Fanny Burn. I bivvied on Fanny Hill last year... I was effectively reversing my route - hoof up the last of the Dunning road climb then down the big track through Corb Glen and down towards Auchterarder before a back road to the bottom of Gleneagles. As I descended I dropped out of the mist and it dried up.

The nearest I got to GR8 - Glen Eagles Castle. At first I couldn't see how to get in, but as I reached a gate and a fairly obvious mowed path heading towards it a guy in an ATV turned up enquiring as to my destination. I instantly figured that the castle was probably off limits, being in the grounds of the big hoose, plus I couldn't be arsed getting into a rammy with the guy as he was pretty cheery, asking about the bike and what I'd been up to, so I headed up to the start of the drove road, grabbing this pic of the castle (and my thumb) - just a low mound.

Another long track climb followed (a lovely grassy one, this is a great route) various bits of trail and even a bit of the main road (also very quiet) as a penalty for changing my route the previous evening. I got to the start of the climb to GR9, however despite a sign pointing the path out, I faced a well tied up gate and no obvious path. Stuff it, I was not missing this GR out! So heave bike over the gate and push up a lengthy climb over sheep dung encrusted fields. 

GR9, Hoods Hill, near to Crook of Devon. There should be a trig point here but it seemed to be next to the service res which was barriered off due to being a construction site. So I sploshed down yet another sodden and slurry filled track, the last GR nearly in site. I rejoined the Devon once more on a nice trail...

GR10 (at last) The Devils Mill - no mill, just a local name for the large gorge the Devon drops through here.

Rumbling Bridge - or two bridges! I've been over this hundreds of times but I don't often have a nosy at the gorge these days, which is surprisingly deep and rocky, considering the largely benign landscape hereabouts.

So that was it. A few miles of cycleway, trail and backroad got me home just after 2. I'd done 145k with 2500m of climbing in about 12 hours of riding. As with last year I enjoyed the whole thing - plotting the GR's, working out various ways of bagging them and then riding it all. The bike was absolutely filthy, thanks to the extreme wetness of this winter but as usual it was flawless. Just as I finished washing it, the rain came on.

Cheers to Justin for coming up with the GR's - they made a good solid challenge of a route, plenty of ace riding and a few new corners in my gaff I'd not been to before. Also cheers to Shaff for organising. March next and a desire to hit the Cairngorms as per 2022. We'll see what the weather pans out like...