Of course you always end up spending more money on new bits (brakes, bars, stem, seatpin, headset, cables, etc. etc) but it went together fairly quickly and a few test rides as part of my usual adventure commutes showed it was a nice handling bike and comfy to boot. Long mudguards were an issue. You could get them in the US but not in the UK - the usual story of UK importers failing to see an upcoming trend. Fortunately I could buy them through Amazon although by the time you added import fees, postage and VAT they were nigh on £50.... Still I now had a sorted tourer that would take on anything you could throw at it. All I needed to do was to give it a proper test and do a tour.
The pleasant weather we've had this year still seemed to be persisting in September so after a quick squint at the forecast, Friday was booked off work and a plan was hatched. As it happened Iona was helping to organise a girls only mountainbike race in Inshriach Forest, south of Aviemore and the race base was at Laganlia outdoor centre. A bash was planned for the Saturday night post race and un-official camping would be available. Right then that's where we are going! The bike was loaded, using my now de-rigeur bikepacking set up.
I had a leisurely start, departing the house at about 10. I followed various back roads and bits of cycleway west through Clackmannashire and past Stirling. Then it was a bit of A road to Bridge of Allan followed by quiet back roads along the Teith valley to Doune and then Callander. I stopped at Callander for an early lunch, noting with some concern the somewhat cloudy and murky skies to the west. The forecast had been for sunshine and a cool breeze so this didn't bode well. Sure enough on departing Callander on the cycleway, a cold dreich blew in. Fortunately the cycleway quickly disappears into woodland so waterproofs were avoided. This is the start of a long length of off-road cycleway all the way to Killin. It follows a mix of paths, tracks and a long length of disused railway line including the famous Glen Ogle line and viaduct. Years ago I worked for Sustrans and I'd been involved in constructing a lot of this route. It's a corker and well worth a ride. I bombed along it on the fargo, having particular fun on the wee trail up past the falls of Lenny. We used to stay in an old CTC hut near Loch Lubnaig and used this path as the route to the Lade Inn near Callander. The ride home was always done seriously under the influence and lead to many crashes and silliness......
A while later, I passed by the hut and it still seems to be intact and owned by the CTC. Whether its still used, I have no idea. Beyond this point you pass some Forestry Commission chalets then its another nice section alongside the loch with a couple of narrow trails and some forest track. At Strathyre I stopped for a late lunch, sat outside in the now warm afternoon. There followed a short road section and then a great section on an old military road followed by more railway line to an old viaduct. This had all been my project and this was only the second time I'd ridden it. Nobody else was around so more fast paced riding followed.
This bridge replaced a center span of a viaduct which was removed when the line was shut. It turned into a mission of a scheme as the Contractor assembled it incorrectly which meant it didn't fit. Basically they had measured the skew wrong and offset the two big tubular arches 500mm out.... There followed two weeks of very long hours (for the contractor) taking it to bits and putting it back together; whereupon it was raised into place again, this time successfully. By the look it had just been re-painted and looked fab.
Soon after it was the long climb up a series of steep switch backs to the upper rail line. Finally the sun was shining so I stopped on the old viaduct to take in the views. This line used to get regularly blocked by landslips. When Mr Beeching was reviewing Britain's rail network with a view to rationalising it there was a particularly bad slip on this line and the decision was made to shut it there and then. 50 years later and its back open again, albeit for bikes, peds and horses.
My legs were starting to tire by this time. I've done a fair bit of bike riding this year, broken collarbone excepted, but nothing really long distance. Still I had plenty of recovery time on the long descent to Killin but after another short road ride it was straight into the humongous climb out of Loch Tayside over to Glen Lyon. Oddly I felt OK up this but a few more patches of dreich came through making me feel a bit dubious about camping. I was aiming for an FC basic campsite beside Loch Rannoch but another huge climb lay between me and it.
This is over the Lairig Ghallabhaich. I rode this in 1994 and had vague memories of it being OK but with some big puddles along the top. The first part of the climb was steep but fine given my nice low bottom gear. It did seem to go on a bit though and after leaving the forestry more dreich came in leading to me having to dive into waterproofs. Then the track roughened substantially and kept climbing. Its the usual story. When its the end of a long day, your not sure of the route and the weather is closing in, big moor crossings like this seem to go on for ever. I was also finding the limitations of a bike with dropped bars and 50mm tyres over the rocky track. It was just a case of keeping it in a low gear and twiddling your way along. Eventually I reached a gate into more forestry and soon enough was bombing down a smooth forest track. I skidded to a halt at a junction looking for the nice descent we'd climbed up on that day in '94. After a bit of faffing and nose following I got on it and what a nice descent it is. The map shows it as a double track but its a nice smooth path beside the river and under pleasant pine trees. The rain had stopped and the sky was clearing once more.
At the bottom I had a bit more faffing finding a way across the river to the campsite that I could see opposite. Then it was a quick throw up of the tent, a wash in the bathroom (no showers) cough up a fiver for the privilege and then make a late tea. Couscous, cheese and smoked sausage, yum.... At least I had cookies for afters! Then it was into the tent as the midges were coming out (in September!) read book and crash out after what had been a long day - nigh on 85 miles.
The next morning was somewhat grey and damp - a low lying mist which soaked everything and allowed the midges full reign. I cowered in the tent making breakfast then packed up and made a sharp exit to beat the winged menaces. I was aiming for a track / path from the north side of Loch Rannoch to Dallnaspidal Lodge on the A9. The mist was clearing as I cycled round the head of the loch revealing steeply wooded slopes and bigger hills to the north. The map indicated two tracks out of Rannoch which joined some way above an estate house. I took the first one but it was pretty rough for the most part and made for hard work on the fargo. Once it joined the other track it improved to a smooth estate road which climbed steadily for several miles. The map showed a building near the end of this track which I hoped would be a bothy.
Duinish - a bothy right enough. It was a bit rough and ready but would make a nice stopping off point. It was now quite sunny and warm so I sat outside for an early lunch. The track continues to a bridge over the Alt Shallain and then fades into the moor. The map showed about 1.5k of path before another track alongside Loch Garry was joined. This path turned out to be a vague line and an argocat track. I followed the argo track until it ventured into a flat, wet area then traced the vague path line along the foot of the hillside. This avoided the prodigious bog land between me and the loch. In fact everything was pretty dry so soon enough I was back on good track all the way to Dallnaspidal. From here I stuck to the Sustrans cycleway all the way to the turn off for Laganlia. For once I stopped at the cafe just off the A9 and Ralia. Its the usual over priced tourist affair but my need for coffee and cake outweighed any financial considerations.
The A9 cycleroute is pretty good, using bits of the old road and sections of new path. From Ralia it follows the road to Newtonmore, a fine bit of cycleway to Kingussie and then the back road to Insh and Feshie Bridge. All pleasant pedaling with a stiff tailwind. On arrival at Laganlia I was greeted by a large volume of people. By this time the race was largely done so I'd arrived just in time for the social bit. Effectively I was gate crashing this event but being pals with one of the organisers got me in buck shee. So I availed myself of the barbeque and soon enough got stuck into the beers. I met a few folk I've known over the years including a few I'd not seen in ages. Ionas' partner Rob was there as he'd been a race marshall. So there followed a very convivial late afternoon and evening which went on to the wee small hours. I'd taken the precaution of pitching the tent before the ale flowed too freely so I was able to crash out easily enough when the drink finally ran out.
Sunday morning dawned warm and sunny. I went in search of breakfast, aware that my tent was pitched on the course of the kids dirt crit (i.e. race) due to start later on. Then it was pack up, say cheerio to all and commence by journey home. As part of a tour I did in 2010 through the Western Isles, I came back via Aviemore. Iona joined me for part of my journey south on her then newly acquired fargo, keen to test it out on the Gaik pass. So it was fitting that I should do the same on mine today. There was a bit of a stiff headwind heading up Glen Tromie but its a great route and well within the fargos capabilities.
Even the short single track section was taken care of without too much grief. Again it was just a case of getting into the granny gear and trundling slowly, but steadily along. After the usual faff crossing the Eddendon water I was soon bombing down the doubletrack at high speed.
Emerging at Dalnacardoch presented a choice of routes. I could stick to the NCN south to Perth and thence home via a good mix of wee roads. I could probably do this in one go but I had the Monday off as well so a longer, more scenic route was on the cards. From Dalnacardoch there is a great mix of wee roads over to Trinafour, Tummel Bridge, Aberfeldy, Crieff and then home. How far I'd get along this was debatable after a late start but there should be plenty of camping options so I was fairly relaxed. Its a hilly route but there was very little traffic so I was able to maintain a steady pace that suited my somewhat tired legs.
Aberfeldy provided a late lunch stop and then it was over the big moor to Sma Glen and finally Crieff at around 5pm. I knew of a campsite attached to a mini trail centre a few miles along the A84 west of Crieff so this seemed like a good stopping point. It was actually only about thirty odd miles home but I didn't have any lights with me so this was a no-no. Crieff Co-op provided food and beer for the evening and then I spun along the main road which was empty at this hour. It did cross my mind that the site could be shut, given that it was a Sunday night out of season but on arrival, a guy appeared to sign me in and indicate where to camp - basically anywhere. Given the midge situation I avoided the woods and pitched on one of the fields in the light breeze. It was pretty much dark by this time so I sat in the gloaming eating, reading and drinking. A perfect way to end an 85 mile day and this mini tour.
The next morning I had a leisurely start given my short journey home. This was dispensed via more great wee roads, none seeing any traffic, finishing with the steady climb out of Dunning, home by lunchtime.
As a test for the Fargo this trip was spot on. I did nearly 250 miles and it was super comfy, I definitely found its limits but it also showed that it could deal with rougher trails, you just had to go slowly. I was less convinced by the Salsa Woodchipper bars as these seemed to put your hands at a funny angle and weren't that comfy on the hoods. So yet another pair of bars is probably required at some point. This will probably be my last trip of 2013 but I've already got some ideas for trips next year. This weekend has also shown I can do back to back long(ish) days so I'm seriously considering entering the Highland Trail next year....
