So Sunday morning saw me take an early train up to Blair Atholl. It was a bit damp as I bought food in the shop and crammed it into various bags on the bike. I've been using frame pack / seat pack / bar roll for a couple of years now and its definitely the way forward. I've been trying to cut some weight so this trip was to be a further evaluation of what I did and didn't need on the Highland Trail. Anyway as I pedalled up the long climb that is Glen Tilt the weather brightened up and the sun came out.
The beast, ready to go
The singletrack beyond the Tarf Water is quite techy and this was my first real go at such riding with most of my gear on the bike instead of the more trad rucksack. In the event I was surprised at what I was getting up, only bigger steps stopping me.
Sunshine at Bynack Lodge. It was quite cool as I ate lunch but the sky still looked pretty bright and I had plenty of gear on. The geldie was a bit high but no major drama. Rather than head to Braemar and the usual route to Glen Gairn I decided on the spot to follow the trail I'd discovered the previous August. This goes up the Quoich water on a double track and then follows a path not shown on the map roughly north east through the woods. I'd been surprised to see a couple on bikes with skis on their rucksacks at the track end - they talked of amazing spring snow conditions on Ben Avon. Little did I know what this was to mean later on..... Still the trail was pretty dry for April and again the bike was handling it all well, despite the bags.
On the climb off the main Ben Avon path the cloud rolled in followed by a fine dreich. I met a chap who asked me if I'd seen his D of E group anywhere (I hadn't) so he ran off back down towards Invercauld. Passing over the top of the climb the rain suddenly became quite heavy and very cold. Nothing for it but to carry on, picking my way down this extremely challenging trail. I got across the Gairn no bother so I was fairly relaxed about the rest of the route. The rain cloud passed over and the weather cleared once more. As previously reported this trail is a cracker and I was soon well into it.
Lower down you re-cross the Gairn again. It was still low so I had no other burn crossing worries. This lasted for about a hundred metres where I came a cross a side burn which was flowing off Ben Avon itself and a raging torrent. Hmm, there had been no issue with this last year. Snow melt was the answer after a winter that had seen some of the biggest snow depths for many a year, but all over 500m. (below that it had just rained a lot). Foolishly I tried to step across on rocks to keep my feet dry, but a slip saw me plunge in, feet wet and boots full. Bugger, so much for goretex boots and waterproof socks. I squeezed as much water out as possible but then a short while later I came across another raging torrent and just plunged right through it.
(End of year edit - this ended up the first of many many problematic river crossings I got embroiled in, in 2014!)
Another heavy rain shower came through and suddenly, the thought of camping somewhere paled. I hit the double track eventually but was a bit alarmed by the footbridge over the Gairn (now also a raging torrent) as one of its handrails had fallen onto the deck making for a tricky crossing, the river roaring below....
Rolling out down the Gairn I decided that I'd wimp out to the bunkhouse in Ballater. Its a good one and equipped with a drying room so an easy choice to make. Best of all on Sunday evening out of season I was the only one in. The Co-op provided food and beer and I had a relaxing evening drying out. Total distance 60 miles.
The next morning was cool, breezy but sunny. I got going early and rode out of Ballater heading for a trail I'd done in 2011. This climbs steeply up the hillside from Bridge of Muik on a good track and then follows the ridge south. I was aiming for the Mounth Road, a route I'd missed out on my 2011 trip, due to horrendous weather. It turned out to be an engaging trail and fairly dry. The descent was rocky and technical, just what I needed. Looking up its continuation over the flanks of Mount Keen, I decided that this would have to wait as it would involve a long detour from my chosen route. So it was an easy roll out down Glen Tanar to Aboyne. In Aboyne I sat in the sun eating chips and drinking tea, whilst contemplating my onward route.
Another old ROW I'd missed on my 2011 trip was the Ladder road - another Mounth road north of Deeside. I figured that today was the day, given the weather, so headed up to Tarland and then further up to pick up the A97 over to Donside. A minor road took me to Strath Don and then I followed a track up through the woods North west to Glen Nochty and the start of the Ladder Road.
The first section is on a forest track and easy. You pass by the 'Lost Gallery' - a local artist with various stuff on display. The art theme continues as you pass an intriguing sculpture at the side of the trail:-
"In Ferrous Defence of the Lost"
Not sure what this means but I do like this kind of thing. The track deteriorated towards the end of the wood and then it leaps straight up the hillside. There is a ruined cottage here called 'Duffdefiance" named after its builder who managed to get it up before the estate found out - the rule being that if you could do this, you could live their un-molested. More of Scotland's dark and feudal past, some elements of which still live on today.
Anyway the climb was a stinker and the wheel ruts so deep they were unrideable. Walking wasn't easy either as the heather was so deep and the weight of the bike a drag. Hey ho, I got through eventually, rode a section of upgraded track and then stomped up the last section which was a fairly overgrown line through the heather, complete with a patch of snow. Eventually the beallach was reached and the prospect of a lengthy descent.
Steep! looking back up to the summit of the trail
And the way down the ladder burn to Glenlivet
It was easy going on such a gradient but its clear this trail gets little use. After a few twists and turns you end up at the ladder burn (very low thankfully) and ladder foot cottage. From here it was an easy track back to the road and up to Tomintoul for a much needed shop. I sat in the evening sunshine eating and drinking and contemplating my next move. I was heading for Aviemore but I didn't fancy the A939 so headed for Glen Brown as usual.
Glen Brown lead me a dance as I tried to follow the line of the original track which is now largely gone. I got back on track eventually and made short work of the remainder of route to Dorback. I passed the turn off to the eiggh mhor path as I reckoned it would be wet and I was now fancying a quick run to Avie so stuck to the now empty back roads through Nethy Bridge to Boat of Garten, finishing the day with the cycleway to Dalfaber where my pals stayed. Total distance 85 miles but I was pleased as there had been some hard riding and I felt pretty good at the end.
Tuesday dawned sunny again. I'd vaguely thought of reccying the HT route north of Inverness but this would end up being a mission so I decided on a compromise whereby I headed for schnecky, picked up the route at Cannich and then reverse it to Tyndrum from where I could ride home.
Inverness was done on NCN 7 and a section of Wades Road which after a vague start was a good way into the town. NCN1 to north Kessock and then a nice wee road along the north shore of the Beauly firth. I ate food at North Kessock on the sea shore. A Large rat appeared briefly but refused to come out to my blandishments and offers of oatcakes. A bit of A and B road work took me past Muir of Ord and to Beauly then I picked up a back road that would take me into Strathglass and Cannich. Once again the miles were racking up and as with the previous day, my legs were coping fine.
I bypassed Cannich heading up the A831 to Corrimony. This next section was unknown to me other than what I'd read on a couple of blogs of the 2013 HT group start. I'd done some geograph research but it didn't reveal much about what was in store, just that it was all double track. From Corrimony up it was all motorway standard - all thanks to the Beauly to Denny power line that has been exercising everybody's mind recently. This power line has created many miles of new tracks and the line itself has caused no end of protest from various environmental and conservation groups. I'm fairly equivocal about it. If we are going to use all this electricity then it needs to be transported...
The motorway continued as it was clear there was a wind farm ahead, not shown on my map. Eventually it turned off and my route continued on a rougher track. At its turn off I'd noted a sign stating 'Loch ma Stack 3 something'. No probs I thought. I had a quick check out of the bothy but was keen to carry on as it was only 5. Hmm, the track was pretty rough and pretty wet and 3km seemed to be taking a long time. But I was dealing with this no probs whereas a few years ago I'd have been stressing about it. Eventually after numerous false summits (the track follows a steep ridge line which the OS 1:50k entirely fails to show, all thanks to contour spacings) I was looking down onto the loch and its spooky ruin.
As I'd read the loch shore was clear and I made quick progress round it, 29+ showing its prowess once more. At last a good track - from the loch dam down the glen it was all good and I had a stiff tailwind so dispensed with this in short order.
At Invermoriston I took an easy option - the main road. There was bugger all traffic on it and with the tailwind it passed easily enough. A cop out but I felt I'd done enough and in fact as I pulled up at the Fort Augustus camp site I'd clocked 94 miles - plenty for one day. Tent pitched, a pint in the campsite bar and then a sound sleep.
More sunshine! The previous April had been snowy then rainy so this was most pleasant. I'd had a leisurely morning with a large breakfast from the petrol station shop and then headed south on the Great Glen Way. This is an easy route following the canal tow path and various bits of disused railway line and yet another section of one of Wades old military roads. The only rough bit is alongside Loch Oich. You follow Wades road for most of it and then the old railway line which is covered in huge tree roots. I bounced over these as best as I could but it seems a shame that no-one has been able to do this up to a proper cycleway. Next is a nice bit of gravel path and then forest roads along side Loch Lochy. finally another 10 miles or so of canal side path to Lagan Locks.
I stopped at Fort bill for a feed and then set off up the Military Road (tarmac!) to pick up the West highland Way above the town. The HT route follows the WHW out of Glen Nevis but I couldn't be bothered with this bit as I'd heard it was pretty rubbish with several stepped sections. After the road end it follows a good if rough track which climbs steadily into a wide corrie, the Mamores vast ahead. I've done this route a few times and it seemed much easier today, a sign of my fitness? The now north westerly wind helped.
On the descent into Kinlochleven the loaded bike started to show its limitations. This is a pretty gnarly descent and I wussed it a few times, not fancying smashing my face into a rock. KLL provided sustenance in the form of the Ice Factor cafe (cake and coffee) and then it was that mighty climb up the access track. I rode most of it but the last section is steep and loose and my now tiring legs weren't up to it. Beyond the top of the track the WHW follows more military road but its an eroded path rather than a track right up to the devils staircase. All rather hard going with two further big climbs but, again, I was getting up it without too much bother. The descent was all ridden but carefully as there were still a few folk about - something of a shock after the solitude of my route so far.
The section to the Kingshouse was pretty eroded in places but I guess its still better than the A82.... Then the final climb up past the ski centre. The sky had clouded over somewhat by this time. I'd had a few sprinkles over the devils staircase but it came on in earnest on this section - a typical West Highland dreich that penetrates all known water proofs. Anyway, Bridge of Orchy soon came up, more track, one last push up under the railway line and the final track to Tyndrum. I tried to visualise what it would be like to do this after the full 560 miles of the HT route, but my imagination failed me.....
So it was a wet pitch up at the campsite in Tyndrum, food in the handy camp kitchen and an early bed. Days total 78 miles.
It was still raining the next morning but in view of an easy day I had a leisurely start with breakfast at the Greenwelly cafe. By the time I'd set off the clouds were starting to break so I was hopeful of a reasonable ride home. Now the WHW between Tyndrum and Crianlarich is horrible. The first bit is OK but then there is a right faff of stiles and paths until you cross the A82 and head up a ridiculously steep climb, then descent, then climb.... I followed the first section but then couldn't face the next. I'd done it the other way in 2012 so didn't feel the need to do it again. The A82 was quiet so I got my head down and pedaled fast to Crianlarich and a few miles further to pick up a farm track. This crosses the river Dochart, passes a farm and then follows a level path through fields until it joins a wee road that takes you to Killin.
From Killin to Callander NCN 7 follows a fine route, a lot of which is on the old Stirling to Killin railway line, long since closed. I'd had a fair bit of involvement in this in my Sustrans days both designing and contract managing various sections. Its a great route and well worth doing. Better still it was sunny and I had a tailwind! Strathyre shop provided a late lunch and then it was on down past Loch Lubnaig. I was hammering all of this in defiance of the distances I'd travelled and loving every minute of it. Eventually after one last twisty singletrack bit and an easy roll out on another bit of disused railway line I reached Callander.
From here it was nearly all on road, but all of the small and quiet variety. A few bits of trail and cycleway took me past Bridge of Allan and Stirling then more quiet roads home, 76 miles after starting.
I'd learnt a lot and tested my fitness properly. A lot of my training has been on the road bike and whilst this has involved plenty of smashing it up hills, I've not done nearly enough long distance stuff. This trip has proved I've got what it takes for the HT fitness wise, I just need to keep the head together. Kit wise the bike was great, swallowing everything in its path and comfy too. But I need to lose some weight. I'd too much up front in particular but overall just too much. Fine on rideable stuff but hard work on the steep hike-a-bike climbs. I'd carried water in the frame bag but I think I'll use my camel back for the event. Also my tent is too big and heavy and I need to get a lighter and less bulky mat. More money......
