Despite my back injury I've still managed a fair bit of riding since then, including a fab bike packing trip around the eastern Cairngorms and plenty of local rides. But my back was still an unknown quantity and a couple of relapses meant that come the end of June I wasn't hugely confident of my ability to do 300k around the YD with its monster climbs. I'm an old hand at riding here thanks to countless family holidays and I knew what to expect, i.e. it would be hard. I'd ridden pretty much everything there was to ride within about a 30 mile radius of Hawes where we used to stay. That was the clincher for turning up though. My folks have a static caravan in Hawes and the route passed close by twice in the first 175k so it would be easy to bail out if my back played up. It would also serve as a base to start and recover from the ride which started in Skipton, not too far down the road.
So Friday evening saw me take a leisurely run down the road, the Krampus in the boot. I'd used this on my ill fated attempt on the Highland Trail in 2014. The Ice Cream Truck had taken the honours at the 2015 HT and I'd meant to use the Kramp for this years group start. Therefore it was due a good long ride out and hopefully a successful completion. It was also the perfect tool for the Dales trails. I was up early the following morning and bombed down the empty roads to Skipton. The start was at Ryders Cycle Centre in a small industrial estate near the station. Stuart Ryder is the man behind this route and its 200k sibling. You actually have to pay up to enter the group ride but you get breakfast and meal on return so its pretty good value all in all. A fair few folk were there including three other Scots in the form of Jenny Graham, Lee Craigie and their mate David Jones; all from Inverness. I knew Jenny and Lee from various Highland Trail exploits and I'd met David the previous year at the Capital Trail ride out so we chatted as we ate breakfast. The Highlanders seemed oblivious of what was to come but didn't seem to be underestimating it given the advertised climbing total of 7500m. This is a common mistake made by several Scots friends who assume that as its England, its easy.....
There was a fair bit of bike and load eyeing up. I'd decided to throw bivvy kit in - bag, mat and sleeping bag - as I was definitely not going to do the route in a oner. Many obviously were and a few were looking at doing it over three days so there was a wide variety of gear on display..... Finally at 8am sharp we were off.
The first bit of the route was actually all new to me as my previous perambulations from Hawes had never taken me this far south. Road at first through Embsay and over into Wharfedale, all of the typical Yorkshire narrow, twisty and lumpy type. The first dirt was an easy (apart from the first of many monster climbs) gravel road over Pockstones moor. I hoofed it up the climb, as usual going too fast at the start of a large bike route but I figured I would settle into my normal steady pace soon enough. Pateley Bridge was bypassed as I had plenty of food for the morning at least. Nidderdale was also new and very pleasant up a tiny road and then another substantial climb on a track which took us high above the valley floor, contouring round to Scar House Reservoir. I'd always meant to do some riding round here but never quite got round to it so this was all good stuff. A brief sprinkle of rain actually came through here (and the forecast was for more) but it made little difference to the trails which were iron hard and dusty thanks to a spell unseasonable dry weather...
On the climb over Dead Mans Hill I caught up with a group who it turned out were at the front. Lee Craigie was there as well as Ian Barrington who I'd chatted to after that years HT group start and bought some bike bags off (he is one half of Wildcat Gear). I was a bit dubious about making this kind of progress as I had little indication of my form. However my back was behaving so I lead off on the last steep of the climb and got up it to a cheer from the others. But this was dangerous ground for me after my Highland Trail blow up in 2014. I stopped to take in the views and eat food whilst this group of elites disappeared down the descent. Thereafter I made a conscious effort to keep the pace down. There didn't seem to be anyone behind in view so I had the place to myself - perfect!
More road climbing took me onto familiar territory. The Starbotton cam road was a nice grassy bridleway on which I passed a very hacked off looking Lee Craigie. She seemed to have ground to a halt and totally ignored my greeting and inquiry as to how she was doing. So I left her too it and hared off down a fine descent to Starbotton itself. It turned out that Lee bailed at that point and rode back to the start.....
For me it was a leisurely pedal up the road to Buckden where I hoped to score food at the cafe. A few of the others were there and seemed to be struggling to get the proprietor to produce any food. There were only four of them (and no-one else) but four rounds of sandwiches and some filled water bottles seemed beyond him or his assistant without much huffing and puffing. His last straw came when the assistant dropped a water bottle and spilled water everywhere. He tried to sort it but the guy totally lost the place and refused to serve anyone else, which unfortunately was me. He assumed I was part of the same group (I wasn't really) and ignored my polite but firm statement otherwise. So instead I went into the next door shop and the same guy appeared. He begrudgingly served me and I begrudgingly paid up. This sort of attitude isn't a common occurrence hereabouts however many years ago I did once witness this same bloke have a total melt down with a neighbour over parking. Yeah, one of those types.....
Anyway, I sat in the sun and ate about half of my stash before the steep climb out of the valley. This is a good trail and I generally get up it dab free. Today was no exception giving further hints that my form was actually pretty good, despite my earlier concerns. Slightly less good was a few twinges out of my back. Still, I also got up the climb on the byway above Kidstones, cruised across Stake moss and clattered down another fast and loose descent to Carperly Green. Into Wensleydale now and onto one of my favourite trails that traces a high level route along the valley, east to Castle Bolton. Less nice was an advancing rain cloud. I didn't muck around, just got into my gear and carried on.
It lasted over into Apedale and waterproofs came off above Grinton with the sun shining as I rolled into Reeth. I noted a bike shop cum cafe at the roadside so dived in. I've a fixed strategy for these kind of rides - if you see a food stop, you use it. Ian B, David, a guy on a Trek Stache (Tom Hill) and a guy on a Surly ECR (Michael Collins) were there feeding their faces. It was only 4pm (and 110k in) but after a quick think I figured this could be the last food source open on route that day so ordered soup, sandwich and salad as my main meal, as well as some cakes to go and lots of coffee. The place was called the Dales Bike Centre and I subsequently learned they had technically stopped serving food at 4 so cheers guys! They also sorted Michaels brake out and sold me some chain lube which I needed but had forgotten to bring with me.
Next up came a famous climb hereabouts - Fremington edge. This used to be the first climb on the Swaledale Marathon route which I did several times in my youth. It was hard going then so was pretty brutal after 110k. That said I got up most of it, only walking to avoid unnecessary back strain and stomach upset. The rain came and went a bit and it was quite murky over the top. I passed David fixing a puncture at Hurst but pressed on to get off the moor before the rain got worse. In the event it cleared on this ace descent and there didn't seem to be any other clouds around thereafter. Over another climb to the aptly named surrender bridge, but I was feeling good so didn't! Then an nice easy pull up Hard Level Gill and over the lead mine desolation of Merry Field.
Hmm. The descent seemed to be away from any marked line on the map. After a lot of too-ing and fro-ing, I eventually headed off on the line but on not much in the way of a path. It coalesced after a bit and headed down a steep rocky defile that was actually man made, sort of. They are called 'hushes' and were used for lead mining. Basically you dammed a stream and then let it run down the hillside so that it washed everything away, in order to expose the precious lead. These hushes are all over the place around here and somewhat at odds with the generally benign terrain. Anyway I picked my way down it carefully and even walked (!) one bit, not wishing to bash myself up at this stage. Another grassy descent took me out of Gunnerside Gill and what would be the hardest section of the route. Back on road (more climbing of course) seemed to signify a major stage of this route achieved. I'd dealt with some monster climbs and minor back niggles aside was in reasonable shape. I was also coming up to the halfway point, but that was at the top of another famous climb.
Before then I passed the Farmers Arms in Muker. I'd had many a shandy (then half pint, then pint) here with Mum, Dad and brother over the years, usually after a lengthy walk nearby. A couple of bikes were parked up outside so I thought "See food, eat food". Actually I only figured on getting a drink and crisps as it was now 8.30 but on entering the barmaid said "If you want food, you'll have to order now!"
"Sausage and mash please"
"Coming right up"
10 minutes later it did, and I wolfed the lot without a second thought. Ian B, Michael and Tom were there so we chatted for a while, non of us in a particular rush. Eventually they left and I was happy to see them go, once again figuring that the best company was my own on this route, to avoid going too quick.
The Buttertubs pass loomed and once again I was on a major climb with a full stomach. I was last here the day after the 2014 Tour de France grand depart which had also used this well known bump. On that day I waltzed over the climb on fresh legs, passing many roadies on the way, despite being on a loaded Fargo. This evening I took it mightily slow. It was now after 9pm and I was giving thought to accommodation, or rather a bivvy spot. In a way I was glad that the Farmers Arms had stopped me as if I'd bypassed it I would likely have diverted into Hawes and then the temptation to bail to the caravan would have been high. In the event after finally grinding up the climb I bombed down the other side and missed Hawes altogether. I passed an incredibly scrawny rat, gnawing away on some roadkill and totally ignoring me. It made me laugh out loud (I love rats and relate to their scavenging skills when bikepacking) so felt well happy cruising along the back road to Bainbridge. I would stop at the next available spot to sleep and tomorrow I'd have less than halfway to ride and a lot less than half the climbing.
The others were caught at Bainbridge and David, who'd missed the Farmers Arms, was just emerging from the Rose and Crown. Another great feature of the Dales is the large number of great pubs! So a group of us started the long, long climb up the Roman road above Wensleydale. Tom was actually singlespeeding which is good going given the hills. My only single speed exploits hereabouts resulted in much pain and suffering and I'd vowed never to try it again... Another guy had joined us (Alistair) who'd actually been up the front for most of the day and was now easing off a bit. Turns out this was his first bikepacking ITT, and his first ride over 100 miles off road! Less welcome was the beginnings of another shower, typical when you are looking for a bivvy spot.
Over the top eventually and I was now tailing Ian B, the others strung out behind. Of course it was now full dark but I knew the route well and even shouted Ian onto the turn off for the Pennine Bridleway, which is easy to miss. Ian lead off down it and I hung onto his back wheel, a light beam back from him. It's a cracker and I'd not done it in the dark before. The first bit is grassy then it follows a smooth gravel path that descends in a series of wide sweeping bends. Ian pulled ahead but for me a stop was very much on the cards. Having a bag only made me think of bivvying under the viaduct at Dent Head but one of the others, who was local, mentioned that the midges were particularly bad that year so this option didn't look good. I did vaguely think of just keeping going but my back had started to give out some serious pain on the long climb and such a move would likely spoil my so far nigh on perfect first day. Then, as if by magic, I spotted a low, squat building by the side of the path. Amazingly it was a breeze block hut with a tin roof and a floor covered in old feed sacks. Perfect! Alistair appeared at this point with a puncture. We both eyed this place up and made an instant, easy decision - this was our digs. David turned up but Tom and Michael cracked on. There was plenty of space so I quickly unpacked the bivvy and got in. The others shuffled around quite a bit so sleep didn't come instantly, despite me having clocked 185k in around sixteen and a half hours. Soon after we all settled down another light appeared and a further chap stuck his head in.
"Room for one more?"
It was raining so the answer was always going to be yes. In the event, he manged to fit in width ways at the top end of the hut so whilst it was definitely cosy, we all had (just) enough room. Hopefully no-one else turns up! Much crackling of bags and shuffling followed but eventually the distance and hour caught me up and off I went into a deep sleep.
Not long after I woke bleary eyed to the sound of people shuffling around. It was just 4am but I figured I'd had around 4 hours of sleep and the sooner I started, the sooner I'd finish so got moving. I'd not brought a stove with me, which is a change for me on an overnighter. My cold breakfast of a piece of brownie and a caffeine gel did little to endear me to this particular piece of TLS wisdom. Still, I was up and packed in jig time shortly after 4.30. The others were still sorting their kit so I gave them a cheery wave and left into the misty morning.
My possible bivvy under the Denthead viaduct looked decidedly damp so that was definitely a good miss. Along the road a bit I caught up with an older guy sporting a natty yellow jersey with a large Welsh Dragon emblazoned upon it. By his accent he was indeed from Wales so we chatted a bit about the route and terrain. He'd actually bivvied in the Dent station waiting shelter, not realising that whilst (on paper) just off route, it was about 200m higher! On the first climb I soon outpaced him, despite my own general feeling of wabbit-ness. I knew I 'only' had 115k to do and I'd also done most of the climbing so I was feeling fairly confident. Better still, my firm bed had done wonders for my back so the pains of yesterday had receded.
Its been years since I did the climb out of Dentdale over the great Wold and its a monster. The mist was clearing a bit hinting at sunshine to come. All was quiet on the usually busy descent to Ribble Head (this is part of the three peaks route) and even the car park was empty. The climb out of Gearstones used to be rough as when it was open to vehicles. It was done up after it became a restricted byway but now seems to have been done up again as a forest haul road and was super smooth. Then down an oft used trail to Birkwith and a trail I'd only discovered a couple of years previous on the Pennine Bridleway to Selside. This is a great route and goes passed the fabulous Morton scars limestone paving.
This and the next few bridleways ended up being my favourite of the route. Likely due to the lack of hills, lack of people and general easy riding along little narrow walled lanes. Austwick was still sleeping but on passing the cafe at Feizor I noted that the door was open, despite it being only 7.30 am. I stuck my head round the door and asked the lady baking bread if they were open.
"Yes I can do you breakfast if you'd like"
I nearly burst into tears.
This substantially improved my mood and wellbeing. Tea, tea cakes, fried things, and a toilet! I eyed up the rest of the route on the GPS. I'd not done a huge amount of homework for this ride as I knew much of it already. The rest of it would be mainly on new trails and looked to be generally easy going so I was fairly relaxed.
Wee road to Stainforth and then up onto another substantial moor. The route zig zagged back and forth across this and often you were within metres of where you'd be several miles later. On paper it looks daft but in reality its a way of bagging several good trails. As a whole the route is very convoluted but that's the result of the myriad of trails in the Dales. In the Highlands there is typically one route so there is not much scope for route planning imagination. Here you could put a route all over the place and it obviously had been carefully planned by Stuart Ryder to make the best of the descents and general riding. It does make it easy to scratch as you are often at points where a bail out back to base would be easy, particularly if you were feeling rubbish and knackered. That said its part of the appeal as you are never too far away from home making the route a lot less intimidating than say the Highland Trail.
Anyway I criss-crossed this moor then bombed down to Malhamdale and up to Malham itself. It was now mid morning so inevitably I was drawn to a further cafe. Other people were now present, the first since the previous afternoon, and I caught a few sidelong looks at me shoveling food down and staring into space. Many people I've spoken too on these routes tell me they often have difficulties eating enough food to fuel them. I don't. So another huge climb with a full stomach past the Cove and up onto Mastiles moor. A guy walking up to the Cove made a comment about this being a big climb for me. I just smiled.....
I've ridden Mastiles lane countless times and its another trail that has seriously benefited from being closed to vehicles as its now super smooth. The sun was largely shining as I flew down the descent into Kilnsey leaving only some pleasant road riding to the last trails of the route. The first two were easy but Stuart had put a huge sting in the tail - a humongous climb over Embsay moor. As I ground up the last zig-zags, I noted a rider behind. Despite my cafe stops I'd not seen any of the others and hadn't been aware of anyone passing but it turned out to be a guy on a day ride. He made a comment about me taking some catching so I felt quite chuffed with myself and he looked a bit shocked when I told him I was doing a 300k route! I let him lead off on the descent and he soon outpaced me.
Heading along the road back to Skipton it occurred to me that I might get in under 30 hours so upped the pace. I was on course until I reached Skipton itself. I'd seen a few signs out the previous day about it being 'armed forces day' today but these gave no hint that in fact the whole town centre was shut so that the local squaddies could show off their kit. So much for traffic management as the first hint of a road closure was.... the road closure. As for a diversion - what diversion? Loads of people were present (and a tank) so blasting through the lot of them seemed inappropriate. I spotted a marshal and asked if there was anyway past. She seemed unknowing of any way round so on the spot I made up a tale of having to catch a train as trying to explain the intricacies of a bikepacking ITT would take too long. If I promised to dismount I could get round so off I went, trying not to crash into errant pedestrians all wandering around the hardware. BANG went a large gun and everyone turned to look allowing me to nip across the square and away from this nonsense. Back on the bike and pedal like hell, arriving back at Stuarts shop at 2:07 pm precisely. Given that at the start I figured my dodgy back would put the stoppers on this long before the finish, I was well chuffed to have finished in thirty hours and seven minutes.
Stuart appeared to congratulate me and I got stuck into the food he'd laid on. Lee was there so I chatted to her for a while. Turns out she had been fighting a cold which had finally got her the previous day, hence her scratch rather than a suffer fest to no real benefit. I was actually the seventh person back and the first to have had a sleep! Interestingly Ian B had only beaten me by an hour and a half despite not stopping. Sometimes a tactical sleep gains you more than you lose. First back did it in 21 hours 30, so I wasn't that much off the pace. Eventually I packed up and headed back to Hawes. Unfortunately it had started to rain and by the time I'd got going it was chucking it down which wouldn't be welcomed by the others still out on the trail. I got back soon enough and crashed out. I had the next day off for recovery so a few beers that evening were definitely in order!
