My start point was Buchlyvie on the A911 as its easy to get to from the house and a cycleway along a disused railway line starts here and takes you to the edge of Queen Elizabeth forest above Aberfoyle. It was a cool, breezy but sunny day. The weather this summer hasn't been great but I've actually been lucky on my big rides, weatherwise, thanks to some some selective timetabling. My back was currently on one of its better cycles, having finally found a proper physio and doing what he told me. Just as well as my route would soon involves some serious bike man-handling!
For now though it was easy pedaling through the network of tracks in the forest. I was on the Krampus (again!) and this was also my first use of a pair of Jones 'Loop' bars, with their extreme sweep. There are various ways through the forest heading roughly west up what is technically the upper reaches of the river Forth. You finally emerge on the road just before the top of the glen. A new path links this point to Inversnaid on Loch Lomond and Stronachlachur on Loch Katrine. It was done by the National Park lot but clearly sees little use as its already quite over-grown in places. Anyway it traces a nice line and contours easily above Loch Arklet before descending steeply to the hotel.
There were a few folk here and a guy on a bike who gave my steed the usual funny look that normal mountainbikers give a rigid 29+ with weird handlebars. I was going to stop for food but couldn't be doing with all the people so headed straight off. The loop bars had been comfy so far but this next section would be a real test!
Overall the trail was pretty good. There were some really nice techy, nadgery sections with occasional easy bits and occasional scrambles over a particularly big rock outcrop. North of Inversnaid is apparently much harder with many stepped sections and some really awkward carries. This was just within the bounds of 'doable' so I was happy. Being an expert creator of paths, I can't help being critical though. I can see that they were trying to maximise journey time along the loch shore but its typical of many such routes that were built by people with little or no engineering knowledge. As part of a short route its entertainment but as part of a long distance walk, its brutal and explains why so many West Highland Way walkers that you see in Tyndrum look so wrecked. The vast majority of people doing it (and others such as the horrendous Southern Upland way) aren't hardened hill walkers (who generally avoid overcrowded long distance routes like the plague). A typical WHW walker is usually wearing a cancer charity T shirt and only doing it as a one off. This of course is great but I do wonder how many people do this route and never go walking again thinking its all like this. Hey ho, as I picked my way along it, I planned a much nicer alternative which would contour above the shore and miss out all the big rock outcrops and their endless ups and downs.
Finally you come out a Rowchoish bothy, an MBA one and rumoured to get a bit wild during the main WHW 'season'. It was empty today so I sat inside eating a late lunch.
Beyond here there is a double track alternative to Rowardennan but I foolishly kept on the single track. This is the worst section and definitely worth a miss.
Rowardennan was mobbed so I rode straight on through looking for a shop. I managed a few snacks and an ice cream from the campsite at Cashel but considering the vast numbers of people who visit here, there was bugger all shops, cafes, pubs or other typical tourist draws. Very odd but typical of Scotland that never seems to be able to get the balance right of tourist attractions and facilities.
The WHW follows various easy paths along this section but the were mobbed also. Also typically the WHW entirely misses out Drymen in order to include another horrendous rocky trail, climb and descent. I just stuck to the road to Drymen and then sat in the evening sun eating some proper food for the first time that day courtesy of the spar shop. From here it was simply a case of following the road up a big climb and then down the other side right back to my start point.
On the techy riding the loop bars had surprised me as to how good they are for such stuff. Your hands are so far back its easy to get back over the seat for steep drops. Although they feel very odd at first you soon get used to them and they are comfy on the wrists. That said I had a distinct ache between the shoulder blades but this seems to be down to the fact that they are 2" lower than my usual bars so I'll try a high rise stem before passing final judgment.
One final rant.....
The West Highland Way, as a concept is great - an off road route from the urban sprawl of Glasgow to the wilds of Lochaber. Its execution is crap though. I've now ridden a fair chunk of it (excepting the bit north of Inversnaid and out of Glasgow) and a common feature prevails - namely endless miles of rough rocky path with countless ups and downs that are totally pointless and will just serve to destroy anybody trying to walk it. The route should accommodate the typcial users, i.e people who aren't hardened mountain men. I'm fed up of hearing people say that "no its all part of the challenge" and (worst of all) "its the mountains, its meant to be rough" This is bollocks. The route above Inversnaid that I'd done earlier is what the WHW should be. Easy going, durable and entirely in keeping with the landscape. Compare this to so many (too many) sections of the WHW with steps, many, many pointless climbs and descents, rocks everywhere and all requiring constant maintenance to deal with the thousands who use it every year.
Investment in the route is minimal despite the status it seems to hold; but this is down to it being maintained by various cash strapped councils, not central government. It would be easy (and in the grand scheme of things, not that costly) to re-create the route as a path that will allow people to experience the amazing scenery, be hard-wearing, won't (contrary to the belief of many) look out of place and won't result in your average walker having to spend most of their time on the route managing blisters. It would also then be a great biking route, further enhancing its appeal.
There, I've said it. I'm out of that game now so its up to someone else to sort it!
