For once I'd booked holiday off work on the strength of a long range forecast for good weather that actually occurred, sort of. A weather warning for rain appeared fairly late on but a bit of re-scheduling of my plans meant I spent the wet Monday helping pals decorate their house in Speyside. The Tuesday was spent likewise but this would allow water levels to settle and trails to dry (a bit)
My planned route was one that has been on my list for a few years - basically an alternative way into Fisherfield forest by way of the Fannichs and Loch a Bhraoin, instead of the more usual climb out of Dundonald. A fair bit of route research suggested some good trails but hard going. Thereafter I'd follow the usual route to Sheneval, over the Strath na Sealga, over the Clach na Freithealaid to Canmore and then we'd see.....
Wednesday morning saw the sun splitting the skies as forecast and a slightly later than usual departure from Strathpeffer at just after 11. After a bit of route faffing through the 'peffer woods, I got onto the Highland Trail route to Garve, where I left it for a bit of road bashing up the A837 to Loch Luichart finally leaving the public road just past 1pm. It would be 50 miles before I saw another road. 35 of these would be on single track....
It was sunny and warm but with a northerly breeze to keep me cool. The big track finished at Loch Fannich Lodge but the going was still pretty good to the loch end. That's when the fun began.
Ruin at the end of Loch Fannich. There is enough roof left for a desperate bivvy if you needed to.
The next trail was a classic old stalkers path but one that clearly sees little use as it was quite overgrown and wet. Its been a wet spring this year and it showed on this (and other paths). Nothing too drastic but the gradient and the saturated ground soon had me off and pushing for the first of many occasions.
On the way up
It wasn't to long to be fair and on reaching the summit, it was clear that the descent would be a different ball game....
Summit
This is a popular route to several munros so had received 'the treatment' back in the Ross and Cromarty Footpath Trust days. This made for a fabulous techy, nadgery descent.
The top bit was a bit steep but the gradient soon eased to a nice level to ensure forward momentum without it being hairy.
The bottom, looking along Loch a Bhraoin and my onward route. You are actually close to the A837 here but I turned away, the mountains of Fisherfield looming large in the distance.
Along the loch it was a good double track to Lochivraon cottage. There appears to be a (non MBA) bothy in the back garden but there was a bloke cutting the grass so I didn't fancy investigating. Thereafter things got a little hard going. Aerial photo research suggested an argocat track alongside (and through) the river however there was no evidence of this on the ground and no clear way along the river. So it was onto the marked line which was unmade and very rough. Much pushing later I crossed the river and the path improved immediately. Back to more ultra techy rock strewn single track with occasional easy bits for breather. You pass the ruin of another remote cottage and then you are onto another R&CFT path. Like all of them its beginning to suffer with zero maintenance plus cows had been on it but it made for improved progress, albeit pretty hardcore.
Of greater interest was the scenery, which is stunning.....
Entering the Strath na Sealga
These slabs have been ridden apparently....
A brief easy bit alongside loch an Nid
The final section was the hardest and I was starting to feel it. It didn't help that I missed the descent to the bottom of the strath after the loch and ended up having to scramble down a rough descent, poached to death by the cows. Finally I hit the track that the HT route takes over from Dundonald and had some blessedly easy riding to Achneigie. The singletrack beyond here is now quite familiar so was dispensed with no issue to Shenaval Bothy. It was only just after six so after a(nother) pause to take in the views I carried on to the shore of loch Sealga and That Crossing....
Hmm. The water level looked to be somewhere between what I'd experienced in 2015 and '17. After a bit of peering about, I removed boots and socks and paddled in. What I discovered was the gravel bar between the loch and the river. A short distance either side of this the water deepened alarmingly but on it the depth was under a foot. I reckon in '15 it was so deep at my crossing point because I'd gone in just upstream from this bar, due to the waves coming in, but had a much deeper channel to cross as a result.
On the other side, toes in the sun.
Not too deep - easy peasy!
The trail to Larachantivore is the only really rubbish bit of the route. The first section is fine but then the made path stops and its very boggy. Also in attendance were the cows who I'd been cursing earlier. And a very large bull. I stared them all down and scampered quickly by.
Larachantivore had been my notionally planned stopping point but the presence of the cows changed this. The shelter looked scuzzy, the porch drafty and the front lawn of the cottage accessible by said beasties which may result in me being trampled in the middle of the night. It was 7pm so it was an easy decision. In 2015 I'd got here at just after 8 and still made it to Carnmore before dark. Today I had an hours head start and an hours more light. So after a snack I set off, wandering up the trail in no particular rush. Its a hard old climb with a steep hike a bike at the top. Thereafter its a great trail. Finally I could enjoy this having no pressure and it being dry both below and above. The scenery was also ace.
The way up
Wee lochan 3/4 of the way up.
Looking down to the strath
Near to the top a thought occurred to me. The stiff breeze that had blown all day was dropping. In the valley bottom it would be still and therefore a midge fest. Up here there would be less midges, given the altitude, and breezier to. As if by magic a perfect bivvy spot appeared right by the trail. I jammed on the brakes, threw my kit onto the grass, got the tarp up, got in (largely midge free although there were a few) and made tea.
As I ate, I contemplated my epic day. This is an overused word these days but todays marathon had justified it. I'd only done 50-odd miles but it had taken me 9 hours, albeit with plenty of stops. As I watched the light fade clouds were dropping but they were not of the rain variety so as I nodded off I was content that for once I would be having a dry and pleasant night, despite my altitude.
Morning view
Top bivvy spot.
There was an inversion in the valleys below me but my spot was bathed in sunshine. A last few wisps of cloud were clearing as I packed up after a very leisurely breakfast and when I eventually set off (9.30, how decadent) all was clear. I chatted to a passing hillwalker as I was about to leave. Turns out he'd walked (ran?) in all the way from the road at Dundonald, was planning on bagging the two munroes above my spot and would then have to get all the way back out. Properly impressive and he had many years on me!
The descent was as good as ever and the views....
I bypassed the cowshed come bothy and headed down to the loch shore, spending a while taking in the scenery
Onwards! This is another great trail and mostly dry having had 48 hours of sunshine on it. Dilemma time. I had two choices:- continue down the strath to the forest, negotiate the cowshit bog, roll out to Poolewe, then it would be the Tollie Path and a longish ride along the A832. Or; hop over to Letterewe and out to Kinlochewe via the postie path. The clincher was the bracken level on the postie path as if it was too high, it would be a tick infested schlep. But would it be worse than the grind along the A832 in the face of NC500 traffic? I stopped to chat to a family who had biked into the forest edge from Poolewe and were walking to Carnmore. They said that the big puddles were no more and observed bracken levels weren't too bad. So the choice fell down to Tollie or Postie. Easy one - at the turn off I only paused enough for one last glance at Carnmore and the hills of Fisherfield before starting the steady climb up and over to Letterewe.
There were a fair few bike tracks on it, including two fresh sets. So others had ridden this since the HT group start a month previous, hopefully meaning the bracken would be OK.
Back to Fisherfield
On to Torridon
On the (ace) descent to Letterewe I met three walkers with big backpacks. Turns out they had got a boat across the loch to Letterewe, something that can be arranged with the estate - something for a future trip??
I did a time check at the start of the single track and got stuck in. As I'd found in 2017, the going was generally pretty easy, especially after what I'd just done. There are a few checks but mostly you are riding until you get to a narrow defile that takes the route up to its highest point. This was hot work as temps were now soaring and there was no wind in this sheltered spot. I'd not been rushing but stopping so far had been a relief due to the westerley breeze.
View west
The trail
Bracken central - don't try this route in July or August!
After this climb is the hardest bit of the route. The slope is strewn with rocks from head to car sized through which the path picks a reasonable line. But it is a case of continuous hop on and off again to make progress and I think its this section which has lead to many people hating this bit of the HT route. In reality its only a small part of the whole. The bracken only caused me hassle at one point. The marked path (and the HT route which I was following) sweeps into a wide bay with a few ruins in it. Most people short cut this and that was where the trampled line went. But this route is rough and a push. After a bit of too-ing and fro-ing I pushed through the bracken a ways to get on the right line which was still clear. Soon after it was another steep rocky climb, a bit of easy going and then a steep descent to the bridge where the path from Slioch joins the way.
This descent had been on my radar to ride in full during my aborted HT group start campaign. In 2017 I'd stumbled down most of it but afterward reckoned it was all ride-able. It is. I footed one section along the bottom of a steep rock slab and had to dismount for a steep switchback just after but this could have been bypassed on another rock slab. But the rest did go, so next time.....
From the bridge the trail eases and the heavy foot traffic keeps the bracken at bay. You still have 3 miles or so to go mind so the fun carried on for another 20 minutes. I checked my watch with disbelief on entering KLE. I'd checked it at the start of the path (11.15) and it was now ten past one. In 2017 it felt like I'd hammered this section and I'd done it in just over 2 hours. Today it had felt like I'd taken it pretty steady and had stopped for plenty of photos. I guess this is the difference with having fresh legs or having 4 days of hard riding in them....
At Kinlochewe I headed for the garage come cafe and ate a large breakfast and drank tea and coke, physically and mentally drained after all that hard riding. I'd various options from here but I decided then and there to minimise any further single track riding. I discounted bail out option 1 (the A832) as this would be a big anticlimax after what I'd done. I also discounted a deeper expedition into Torridon as this is also pretty hardcore and I didn't fancy pushing my luck on any more rad descents.
I consolidated plans over cakes and ice cream from the post office, then headed south on the '896. More NC500 traffic, most of which seemed to have no clue how to deal with a cyclist on a single track road (locals excepted). It was a relief to turn off to loch Coulin and the pass over to Achnashellach. This is a steady climb and another boiler in the afternoon sun.
Ben Eighe and Liathach
Ben Eighe from the tea house turn off.
Ben Eighe and the Letterewe / Fisherfield hills from near the summit of the Coulin Pass
Strath Carron
After a fast descent and more NC500 infested road bashing I stopped off at the Strathcarron hotel for food and a much needed pint. I figured I could have got to Dornie for food, but decided on the age old formula of 'if you can get food, get it'. Sitting in the sun drinking beer and eating was most pleasant.
Then it was along the road a bit, over the hill to Attadale and up through the forest, all on the HT route. The track across the moor appears to have been worked on. Not to the usual motorway standard but better than the original bog fest. Oddly this stops about two thirds of the way down right at a really boggy bit... I couldn't be bothered with the final nadgery single track along glen ling so crossed the river and picked up the big track to Killilan.
Riding into Dornie, my mind was buzzing with opening times of the garage, where I was going, when I was going to get food the next day etc. etc. I looked across to the village and saw the big words 'PUB' emblazoned across the roof of one building. Stop! I wasn't doing the bloody Highland Trail, I was on holiday. Into the pub we go, another pint and crisps to replace valuable salt and calories. I had plenty of food in belly and bags so didn't need to worry about re-supply.
From Dornie I stuck to the main road as I couldn't be bothered with the big climb the old road takes, then it was up to the campsite at Morvich and on up Glen Lichd in the evening sunshine. I passed and chatted to a Spanish couple on gravel bikes looking somewhat distressed by what they had just done. "Its very hard path" said he.
"Not compared to what I've just done" thinks I.
I could have camped in the bottom of the Glen but I figured the same thing as the previous evening - it would be midge hell. Plus it was near to the equinox and I fancied going until dark. I also had a bothy option if required. So up we went on a climb also now quite familiar. Being sound of mind on this occasion (ie not wasted after 4 or 5 days of bike riding) really allowed me to appreciate this climb and the scenery.
Nice to ride a wee techy bit, at 9.30pm, in the sun
Above the water falls where the gradient eases I stopped to get my breath and take in the view. A grassy knoll just above the trail caught my eye - another perfect bivvy spot as it would collect what breeze there was keeping the midges at bay. And why use a bothy, doubtless full of people on this dry evening, when I could camp out again. Up went the tarp but of course the wind dropped and the midges appeared before I was finished. Still I got inside largely midge free and laid back to relax after another great day. 12 hours and 68 miles today but I spent nigh on 4 of those 12 stopped so not so bad really...
Thats where it went all wrong. First I realised I needed the loo and would therefore have to run the midge gauntlet again. Then a breeze sprung up. I got out, did what had to be done midge free and snuggled back down. The breeze became a wind. The tarp started to flap. within 10 minutes it was a strong wind and the tarp was flapping constantly. No way was I sleeping in this so what to do. I lay for another 10 minutes by which time I was starting to get concerned for the integrity of the tarp. Fuck it, we need to go. I packed up sharpish, threw everything onto the bike and then dithered. Should I go for the bothy or was there anywhere else. Then I noticed the wind was now coming from east not west. Cloud was pouring through the glen and it was cold. I looked back down the climb but couldn't face retreating all the way back, knowing I'd have to get back up it the next day. Lower down from my spot there were some smaller lumps and bumps and possibly a few level spots. I stomped down and found one which seemed to be sheltered.
Once again I put up the tarp and got inside. 10 minutes passed then the gusts began, whistling around me from all directions every few seconds creating big flaps and bangs from the tarp. For an hour I drifted in and out of sleep, constantly awakened every time the tarp cracked with a particularly big gust. I slept for about a half hour then got finally awakened by a huge gust. Double fuck it, I had to move. It was now full daylight (3.45 am) at least so once I'd stuffed everything on the bike I was able to ride along the fairly challenging trail in reasonable order. Oddly the tarp had been soaked inside and out. The cloud was now right down and the wind fierce.
I was miffed as I'd meant to be riding this fine trail at a reasonable hour of the morning in the sun, not in a bleary eyed dawn in the face of a stiff wind and minimal vis. Then the wind dropped down to a breeze, I'd dropped out of the cloud and it had warmed up. If I had found a spot I'd have pitched up again but everywhere was either on a slope or a bog or both. After half an hour I came across the bothy (Camban) and lo, it was empty. It was now 4.30 so I threw the bike inside, tore out my bag and mat, and crashed out.
I woke at 9.30 so overall had got a reasonable amount of kip. Looking out the sky was once again clear blue with a light easterly breeze.
Quite what had happened the previous evening was a mystery. I suspect it had something to do with warm air over the hills being dragged out to sea by cool air with the change to an easterly wind fueling it. Given the length of the strath that is Glen Affric, this would lead to a large column of air rushing between the peaks. The strath then drops steeply into Glen Ling - right where I was camped - causing a further channeling and funneling effect as the air was stretched over the bump, hence the gale right on my pitch. Or something - meteorologists please get in touch with alternative theories! Oh well put it down to experience....
Anyway today was homeward bound and I wasn't messing - just a leisurely cruise down Glen Affric to Cannich (via the Affric and Kintail Way) food in the sun here and then down Strath glass on the back road. I did briefly contemplate the track of a thousand puddles to Maryburgh via Orrin Dam but I couldn't be bothered with either the large climb or the puddles so carried on the back road to near Beauly. A road to Muir of Ord - the only busy bit so I rode on the footway - then the quiet A road to Maryburgh and back up the hill to Strathpeffer some 5 hours and 56 miles after I'd left. I chucked the bike in the car and headed back to my pals place in Speyside for a barbecue and many beers in the warm evening sun.
This will definitely be my key trip of 2019 and more than makes up for my fail on the Highland Trail group start. Since my first jaunt through Fisherfield in the 2015 group start I'd had a desire to do it in my own time and in good weather. Its taken 4 years but it certainly was worth it. It was also good to finally bag the route from Loch Fannich into Strath na Sealga. I'm not sure I'd do it again mind!
