Route History (updated June 23)
The route is in its 11th year with the 10th group start complete in May 2023.
In 2013 it was around 440 miles; approximately following the bottom two of the current three loops. The first 100 miles was the biggest difference to the current route. It followed the West Highland Way all the way to Kinlochleven and then set out for 50 miles of continuous off road up to the Abhain Rath, down a bog fest to Loch Treig, track to Loch Ossian and out to Loch Lagan joining the current route at its east end. Into Fisherfield was via the gruesome Coffin Road climb out of Loch Broom over to Dundonald, up the track climb and then down the gnarly single track direct to the back of Shenval bothy. Exiting Fisherfield was via the trail right out to Poolewe via the infamous 'Cowshit Bog.' Thereafter was the equally infamous Tollie path and a run along the A832 to recover. The Torridon hills were done via the pass from Annat over to Coulags.
Fastest time was by Aiden Harding at 3 days 2hrs and 15 minutes. 15 people completed the route that year and 13 scratched.
In 2014 the northern loop was added, largely as it is now. Other changes: The singletrack descent to Shenval was replaced by the longer but easier route on the track. The Torridon section followed a longer route over the Bealach Bann into Coire Granda and right up and over the high pass to Corrie Lair before the precipitous drop to Achnashellach Station. This route was also used in 2015 apart from a minor change to the climb out of Achfarry which now went via the ROW. This was the hardest and longest of all the routes to date at 560 miles.
Fastest time on this route was by Phil Simcock in 2014 at 4 days 1 hr 43 minutes. In 2014 13 people completed the route and 23 scratched. In 2015, terrible weather took its toll with 15 completions and 31 scratches.
For 2016 three major changes were made. The first 75 miles totally changed with a new route from Auch Farm, a few miles out of Tyndrum, up and over into Glen Lyon, down to Bridge of Balgie and then up and over the Lairig Gallabaich into Rannoch forest. Round the loch and then up towards Ben Alder and the ace single track climb and descent over the Bealach Cumhan and Dubh. Then a long doubletrack descent down the river Pattack to join the old route at the top end of Loch Lagan. Second up was a shorter route out of Fisherfield to avoid the A832. This was via Letterewe and the infamous Postie Path along the north shore of Loch Maree to Kinlochewe. Finally the Torridon section was drastically reduced in size and altitude with the route going above and round Loch Coulin to the Teahouse bothy and then up the shortish climb to the previous years route at the top of the steep descent to Achnashellach. This route was used in 2017 with only a slight variation to avoid the Hydro Electric scheme built on the River Pattack and a minor change to the start of the dreaded coffin road climb out of Loch Broom, now using a signed path behind Croftown rather than up through the field and woods further along the wee road. This represents the 'easiest' of all of the route iterations to date - 550 miles. In 2018 the same route was used but with a bonus climb on the return to Tyndrum along the West Highland Way via Wades Road over Mam Carraigh that saved a mile but added 150m. In 2019 a further minor variation was introduced linking Loch Lagan to the Corrieairyack via Glen shira which dropped a further couple of miles off the route to its shortest distance of 547 miles.
Fastest time on this route was in 2017 by Neil Beltchenko at 3 days 10 hrs and 22 minutes; only 8 hours slower than Aiden Harding's time round the 440 route. In 2016 the easier route and sunny weather produced the highest completion rate to date:- 39 with only 13 scratches. In 2017 reasonable weather and dry trails resulted in 39 completions (plus 9 ITT's which were becoming popular) and 17 scratches. This year saw a lot of fast times with 6 people getting home in 4 days or less. 2018 was hot and sunny which took its toll with 31 completions but 22 scratches. 2019 exceeded the 'worst weather' record of 2015 and also gave the worst completion rate - 23 people did but 48 didn't....
In 2020 further route changes were made, although the group start didn't take place and no one managed an ITT due to the pandemic restrictions. This route remained for 2021. Near the start the route used the track along the south shore of Loch Lyon instead of the north but the main difference was a different way into Fisherfield via Auchindrean farm and the Abhain Cuieag to Loch a Bhraoin and the back end of the Strath na Sealga. Also the route before Ullapool changed to go from the School House bothy to Knock Damph bothy and past the loch. Finally the Fisherfield exit returned to the 2015 route, including using the Tollie path. This put the mileage back up to 560 and was arguably as hard as the 2014/15 route although the Torridon section remained substantially easier, still using the Teahouse climb.
Fastest time was by Liam Glen at 3 days 11 hours. Given the additional distance and difficulty this is pro rata faster than Neil Beltchenkos time of 2017. 30 people completed the route plus 3 ITT's (one in winter!) and 20 scratched.
22 Edit....
In 22 The route did indeed return to using the Coffin road climb, contrary to my prediction in the route description below. The other variation was at Loch Coulin in Torridon. Instead of using the track up through the woods and down again, it followed the single track along the east loch shore. This put the mileage down to 555.
Fastest time was by Huw Oliver at 3 day 11 hours and 24 minutes. Roughly faster than Neil Beltchenkos outright record due to the increased route distance from 2017. Overall 39 people completed the route and 28 scratched.
2023...
Roughly the same as last year but with two changes. First was a new section of off road between Invermoriston and Loch Ma Stack. The route went up a steep road climb then followed the high level variant of the Great Glen Way (fun!) before peeling off on a fine narrow and low key doubletrack climbing high above the glen. This linked with further similar tracks that access various dams before the inevitable windfarm motorways to the original route just before the Loch Ma Stack shore line. The other variation was on the way home. Instead of the nice and easy Great Glen cycleway, the route followed the somewhat hillier Great Glen way once more. This is nice and smooth but does have a chunk of climbing. It also follows a variation above Loch Lochy put into avoid a micro hydro scheme. More climbing and more fun gravel paths. This lot adds around an hour and a half to the overall route length but only a few miles extra.
Fastest time on this was by Angus Young at 3days, 7hours and 15 mins. Given that this route was around 3hours longer than the 2017 variant, that's quite an improvement on Neil Beltchenkos time. 42 people finished and 17 people scratched or DQ'd (the dreaded GGW link strikes again!)
The route.
Herewith are notes describing what you are in for along the whole route, split into fairly logical sections in terms of the different terrain types. I'll cover some of the variations as well given Alan's tendency to chop and change things from time to time.
Tyndrum to Fort Augustus, distance 95 miles (in 2013-15 it was 101, 2016-18 99.)
A good warm up for the route as there is a bit of everything but nothing too drastic in terms of terrain. The only thing to bear in mind is that there is no re-supply on route.
From the start to Auch Farm its generally on a good track but with one short and rough bit of West Highland Way trail including a steep and steppy descent to a tunnel under the railway which will weed out the faint hearted. The gate lifts off its catch to avoid the stile. This is of particular value when you are on the way back up this; the last climb of the route.
From Auch farm you have around 19k of good double track to the Lyon reservoir dam. The challenge is a number of river crossings (10 if you are using the south shore route!) which have always been low on the group starts to date but ITT'ers have encountered some high water levels. The north side has fewer but the crossing of the Allt Meurain is very wide, albeit shallow and rideable. Stepping stones help if it's in spate. The south side crossings are much smaller but are rumoured to be a bit wild after prolonged rain. You then have 10 miles of road to Bridge of Balgie. There is a nice cafe here with outdoor seating if you are in a leisurely mood.
On the south side track looking back. North side track visible!
Wide crossing of the Allt Meurain
From here its a good track up through the woods then a rougher track over the Lairig Gallabaich. Through Rannoch forest its smooth fire road apart from the link across the Dall burn and the last descent to the forest edge, both of which can be quite soggy. Thereafter it's a roughish track behind the rocky gnoll of Leagag and a fast and rough descent to Loch Rannoch. All of this is pretty weather proof barring the odd puddle.
On the trail out of Rannoch Forest (bike pointing wrong way), Ben Alder in the distance.
Round the loch on road and then into one of the routes highlights - the Ben Alder section. First up is a steady climb on a good track through the woods and over to Loch Ericht. The track continues round the Loch's west shore for some 2k, contrary to the OS map. There is then 2k of bog trotting to Ben Alder cottage. On the line is very wet but a bit of imagination will avoid the worst of it. Keeping right is the trick. If its fairly dry you'll ride most of it but if its very wet you'll need a fat bike or waterproof boots to keep your feet dry. The fun begins at Ben Alder cottage, an MBA bothy - 16k of some of Scotland's finest single track. After a steep start with some steps its a smooth and narrow stony trail which climbs steadily up to the Bealach Cumhan. A couple of burn lines, one quite big, are the only real checks. There are various cross drains but they are mainly narrow enough to get over with the minimum of fuss, only a few needing a hop. After a short, narrow and fast descent you climb steeply back up to the Bealach dubh.
Ubiquitous Bealach Dubh shot looking back the way you've come and down to Loch Ossian which was on the 13-15 route.
The descent is a gem. It starts off quite steep with a couple of rock features needing some thought but then levels off for a fast, smooth and highly entertaining blast down the defile below Ben Alder. The last section, after a rough burn crossing, is beside said burn (The Allt Choire Reihd) and is a joy on a narrow trail hugging the burn side with only a few rock steps and narrow cross drains to negotiate. Pause for breath at Culra (an MBA bothy technically closed due to asbestos contamination) then do the last couple of miles of single track. This is a bit rougher and muddier after rain. You are then on good double track by Loch Pattack.
After a k and a bit the double track deteriorates to a somewhat boggy mess. The track is under there somewhere so keep to the middle, even though it looks the worst in places. The wheel ruts are much deeper so avoid these or trying to bypass the track to either side as its a swamp. Its only for a k or so then the track improves at a shonky bridge and remains good all the way down by the River Pattack to Kinloch Lagan. After a short section of the A86 Glen Shira is next which is a smooth motorway standard track at first then a nice grassy track through the woods. The Corrieairyack pass is next, the highest point on the route.
A few miles of road gets you warmed up and some height. Then its a good track all the way into the corrie with only a few large rock water bars to ride down. Rejoice as up until about 2005 this track was an absolute boulder fest. The steep climb out of the corrie is doable with a low gear and / or big leg but it's very loose in places.
The summit, looking west to Kintail, through which you will hopefully be passing a few days hence.
The descent includes three short climbs but the track is all good, just a bit loose on the steep bits. Annoyingly the last section has been grazed by cattle (deliberately by the landowner who is famously grumpy and hates walkers, cyclists and anyone else who ventures on to his land) but its short. One last low key track takes you to Fort A. Pizza time.
Fort Augustus to Oykle Bridge, distance 100 miles.
Generally regarded as the easiest section of the route with only a couple of minor challenges. Re-supply at Cannich, Contin and the OBH.
To settle your pizza there is a short sharp climb out of Fort A on the Great Glen way. This is a mix of smooth gravel path and forest track to Invermoriston. The new route for '23 (and likely to be a keeper) goes up a very steep switch back road out of InverM until you turn onto a forest road, still climbing. After a couple of turns this runs out and a roughish but well made path continues up and down a few times before a steep drop into a burn (with bridge!) Just past this you turn off through a gate and climb in a series of fits and starts through the woods on a fine narrow double track. It leaves the woods across a moor and then joins a similar track which is actually on top of an aqueduct - all part of the extensive hydro-electric scheme around here. After a few k this then joins a wide and smooth wind farm track. You follow this with some more ups and downs before it links to the original track climb, very near the Loch. Loch Ma Stack is passed on the rocky shore. Its rideability depends on water levels - low and its mostly doable, high and it isn't. The last 200m is the roughest.
From the north end you pick up a very rough and often wet and boggy double track. It may be getting done up as part of the bothy restoration so watch this space ('23 edit - now much improved). After about 3.5k it hits a super smooth windfarm motorway and it stays like this to the road at Corrimony.
This used to be a long road section but a detour on a new smooth gravel path, track and more gravel path (a new part of the Kintail Way) misses some out. If you are heading for Cannich shop keep on the gravel path as its a hoot and takes you to the edge of the village. After a few miles down Strath Glass its big climb number two over to Orrin Res. An easy but steepish climb dumps you in the 'Track of One Thousand Puddles' so called due to a number of burn crossings and flooded sections which can be rather deep. A few have bypass routes now as this track gets used by a number of bikepacking routes but some need to be ridden through as the ground either side is a swamp. Other than the puddles its mainly good going. After the water pipe it's dry all the way to the dam. From here its tarmac to the estate then a bit of track to the road to Contin. There is a well stocked shop here and a garage which opens at 7am.
In between the puddles....
Contin to Garve is all on good forest track with one slightly rougher descent near the end. Then more smooth forest road above Strath Garve to a brief bit of the A835. The next time you hit this road will be nigh on 170 miles hence. A good estate track takes you up Strath Rannoch and over to Strath Vaich. Its a bit rough in places but mostly easy going. This continues past Deanich Lodge and all the way down to Alladale and the road.
The road is brief to Croich Church, scene of one of many atrocities committed in the name of the Highland Clearances - its a worth a look in if you've the time. Then its the old road to Ullapool. The first section is good but it gets rougher and wetter beyond the old house at Lubachoinnich. Over the climb is rougher still until you start the descent into Glen Einig and the top of the middle loop. If you were doing the 440 route you'd turn left here for Ullapool. There is a fast run down to the road end and the OBH for tea.
Near the top of the climb over to the OBH, Suilven and Canisp in the distance.
Oykel Bridge to Oykel Bridge 115 miles aka the Northern loop.
This marks the end of the easy riding and the first of the big challenges. It's worth noting that if you make it this far with contact points in reasonable order you'll be OK for the rest of the route as from here on there are plenty of walking opportunities! Food is available just down the road at the Achness Hotel who provided a warm welcome in 2023. Further round there is a burger bar semi permanently ensconced on the Kylesku bridge parking area. The Kylesku hotel is pricy but good; and just up the hill from here is a new cafe which is simple but good. The highlight for food and good cheer is Drumbeg Stores - a must stop destination as the Colleys who run it are big supporters of the route and very friendly. There are a couple of shops and a cafe at Lochinver as well as another HT favourite - the pie shop which has an outside seating area and takeaway - ideal for smelly bikepackers!.
Doing this in a oner is a long day. Best get up into Glen Cassley after tea at the OBH or Achness to save a few miles; or aim for Lochinver or Suileg bothy to break it up a bit. Glen Cassley is a gentle road climb until Duchally lodge where it becomes a smooth track for the last few k to the power station. It's tarmac over the monster climb and descent to Loch Shin - part of the hydro electric infrastructure hereabouts. The road continues to West Merkland.
The next section can take between 3 and 5 hours depending on the weather, wind and trail conditions. To Gobernuisgach lodge is a good track and easy going albeit with a fair old climb. The fun begins up Glen Golly. This is rough and can be pretty wet after prolonged rain with a few short sharp climbs for good measure. From the bridge at the glen head its a super steep climb up to Lochan Sgeirich. Watch for the turn here as its a bit vague and you may doubt your nav. Many people have missed it! There now follows 3.5k of one of the hardest trails of the whole route. Its an old stalking path so there is some structure to it but years of neglect and little use mean its boggy, narrow and rough. All good fun. In 2015 it was an absolute swamp. Conversely in the dryness of '17 it was comparatively easy going.
Northern trail in the dry...
And the wet....
After a down then an up it descends steeply to An Dubh Loch. This descent features some large peat hags where the old path has long since sunk. One section is a big step down, don't even think of trying to ride it! It's worth sticking exactly to the line shown on OS 1:25k as this misses one of the bigger hags out that the official 'line' takes you right through - its a short elbow above the word 'ford.' You will see a huge boulder at the bottom of the path by the burn. Go round the right side as on the left is another peat hag. Cross the burn (no ford) and scramble up the bank to a rough but stony track.
On the start of the big climb looking back to the peat hag descent on a very damp day on the 2021 group start, hence the rain splodge on the lens! The trail appears at the notch in the pic centre and drops down through the mess to the large boulder.
The climb from here is a solid push to the route's northern-most point. It eases to the Bealach Dubh and you then get a fast descent on a rough but dry track all the way to Lone. Finally roll out on easy estate track to the main road and the small community of Achfary, the end of the outward GPX.
Two big boulders on the exit of the Horn path. There is actually a reasonable 'houff' under the left one if you need a bit of shelter for a bivvy!
From Achfary the climb is steep but the track good all the way over to Loch Glendhu. You turn off the smooth track on a slightly rougher one by the loch shore to Kylestrome. Some A-road bashing over the Kylesku bridge takes you to the hardest road section of the route and one that has a reputation amongst roadies the country over - the Drumbeg road. Don't count the climbs as there are many more than you think. That said, compared to what you have just done its pretty easy! Watch out for glaikit drivers doing the North Coast 500. Beyond Drumbeg (excellent shop, pub and loo) gradients ease and fine views out to the Western Isles make it all worthwhile.
Another route highlight follows just past Clachtoll. This wee trail to Lochinver is an old path from this town to various coastal dwellings which pre dates the road by many decades. Its a mix of good double track, constructed single track and sandy / grassy trail behind the dunes. There are plenty of ups and downs and a fine prep for what's to come....
The trail from Glen Canisp lodge, just out of Lochinver, to Ledmore Junction (20k total) is a strong contender for the hardest / worst trail of the route. Objectively its alright but the last 10k will exercise your walking muscles considerably. The views of Suilven and surrounding hills makes it worthwhile. It's also one of the oldest landscapes in the world - a billion years or so. Fortify yourself with pies and get stuck in! After a short tarmac climb you head into the wilderness on a rough but generally good double track. There are some rocky climbs and a few mucky bits after heavy rain but overall its good going through a beguiling landscape of rock and rocks to the turn off for Suileg bothy, under the brooding gaze of Suilven. The track then begins a slow deterioration to its end at Loch na Gainimh. The going depends on the weather. In 2017 after a long dry spell it was firm, dry and pretty quick. In 2015 it was very muddy - real grinding paste - and seemed to take an age. In 2021 it was damp but OK overall... There is one braided section by Loch na Gainimh where an Argocat track splits off from the trail. Neither route offers any advantage. You leave the double track at the loch end (another nav challenge as the turn off is a bit vague - look for the cairn) and then the fun really begins. The first bit is one of the roughest on this section - a proper rock garden. Bits are rideable but most isn't...You then enter a narrow defile through to Lochan Fada. This is better - a classic nadgery trail, its rideability dependent on your skill and level of tiredness. After crossing the burn at the loch end there is a short section where you have to scramble up a steep, rocky and loose slope before the trail 'improves' again. On a clear day you will get a view of the phone mast above Ledmore Junction - the trail end. To the final climb is about the most rideable of this section. The rock is slippery when wet!
Heading up the defile to Lochan Fada - a reasonable indication of what you will be up against
Probably the easiest of the singletrack section after the scramble up from the loch.
After a slightly vague bit on the climb (stick right on the gpx) the trail coalesces once more. It's still hard going with many a rock to catch you out. The descent is super technical and huge fun if you are in the mood. Many aren't by this time. Along the shore of Cam Loch the route has changed a bit, it used to follow the shore line which was lethal when wet but now sticks to the marked path which is narrow and actually one of the most frustrating bits of this section as much of it is unrideable and also makes for awkward pushing. The final insult is a very boggy section from the loch end to the road. Phew, if you've made it this far, console yourself that nothing else on the route is as hard going. Celebrate with an easy run along the road back to Oykle Bridge, hopefully in time for last orders.
Oykle Bridge to Kinlochewe, distance 85 miles.
Wester Ross mountain biking at its finest, this is the queen stage of the route taking your through one of the UK's biggest wildernesses. To get further away from civilisation requires a visit to the Cairngorm plateau. Ullapool provides all facilities, including a Tesco open from 8am until 10pm. There is also a butchers shop opposite the ferry terminal which sells rolls and hot drinks from 7am. Its worth giving some thought to ensure you arrive during these times as your next re-supply point is 9-10 hours away at Poolewe.
Good double track that you whizzed down two days ago takes you up to the School House Bothy. The good track continues to a river crossing which can be problematical after heavy rain. From here the track (not a path as per the OS maps) is rough but a good one and fairly resistant to wet weather. After a short climb it levels out past Knockdamph bothy and goes along by the loch before climbing away from its shore to the high point of this section.
Riding along Loch Damph (photo courtesy of Mike Toyn)
The Strath Mulzie alternative (As used from 2013 to 2019). Turn left after the School house on a good track up Strath Mulzie. This climbs steadily with a steep bit near the turn off. The single track section is pretty rough and much hillier than the map suggests. Its a bit nadgery in places but makes for some good riding (I once did it on a day circuit and it was fun) The descent is a bit rougher but its worth sticking exactly to the line on the OS 1:25k as the gpx route does a short cut over rough, tussocky ground near the bottom. Cross the burn near the boat house and climb the rough track to the above route.
From here it's a fast and loose descent to Glen Achall. A super smooth track takes you to the loch and then its tarmac to the turn off for the Ullapool hill track. This is rough and rocky at first then narrows to a sweet bit of single track down to the town. It can be a bit mucky after rain but nothing too horrible. From Ullapool allow your breakfast / lunch settle on the A835 watching out for high speed NC 500 traffic. Be relieved to turn off on the wee road to Croftown.
In 2021 we did a new route which I thought would permanently supersede the dreaded Coffin road. In the event I was wrong! However I tried to convince Alan that it was better and it may reappear at some point, so herewith the description - First up is a smooth track to Auchindrean farm. You turn off this, through the farm yard almost to the road then turn right onto a fun riverside trail. It's totally out of character with the rest of the route in that's its narrow, grassy and more like what you'd find in the lowlands, but makes for a fun interlude given what's coming. One tricky bit is where there is a landslip which may scupper this path if it gets worse, and lead to the route sticking to the big track. You climb up past the end of this track and then onto a great made path which follows the edge of the Abhainn Cuileag gorge. Its steep but all good going.
After a final climb up to a deer fence there is a shortish section (in 2021) of unmade trail. The story is that a power line was put through here (underground) and a trail is to be built from here right out to the road. For now there is about 600m of bog trotting before you pick up this easy gravel path. Hopefully this will be sorted at some point! Then up the road a bit and off into the Great Wilderness. It will be 30 miles before you hit tarmac again.
Along Loch a Bhraoin its good going on a newly improved track done as part of a micro hydro scheme. This continues to Lochivraon bothy. From here there is a bit of rough track and then you're on about a k and a bit of rough, narrow and largely un-rideable path. Keep on as better is to come. After you cross the burn the trail improves markedly. It's tricky with plenty of nice trialsy bits but generally rideable until near the ruin of Feinasheen. Oddly there is a short unmade (and boggy) section before you pick up the stony path again. It's starting to look a bit tired these days, some 18 years after it was substantially done up by the Wester Ross Footpath Trust project, but is generally rideable, albeit hard going. At least it's mainly downhill and views of the Sgurr Bann slabs are a fine distraction.
Entering the Strath An Nidd, Sgurr Ban slabs ahead
By Loch an Nidd its smooth and grassy and then there is a steep descent down to the Strath na Sealga. This has been well poached up by the herd of cattle which wild grazes this area and is therefore a scramble. Once you hit the glen bottom it returns to its previous format for a k and then enters a hard section where the glen narrows and the ground and trail is rougher and rockier. Things improve where the glen opens out and the last k to the river is almost track like. This track peters out at the river and its a free for all across a couple of burns and a grassy field to the track over from Dundonald. Phew - take a break!
The Coffin Road....
After turning off the A835 you turn right on a path that was new in 2017 signed due to it's inclusion into the increasingly popular Cape Wrath trail. This takes you through the field edge and behind the cottages. Its a rough, if made, trail and can be pretty slippy when wet. After a few hundred meters the gradient ramps up to the point where your front wheel will be at head height. It's not for long before the gradient eases a bit to the sharp right turn away from the woods. Here you join the 2013-16 route which is better to be honest as it zig-zagged on an easier line to this point. The double track continues to the summit. As the gradient eases over the top, the bog increases and its pretty soggy past the wee lochan (well it was in 2015, 2017 was fine and in 2023 it was bone dry!) Then its a proper single track descent which is rough, rutted, rocky and nadgery. Hard going and with a secondary watershed to cross so a bonus climb thrown in for good measure. The final descent to Corrie Hallie is more of the same and pretty untracked through the final woodland. Not as hard as the drop to Cam loch that you did yesterday by any means but slow going and frustrating as you'll be focusing on the next bit...
Top of the main climb of the Coffin Road, a snowy Ben Dearg behind
From Corrie Hallie it's a rough and rocky double track climb up through woodland and into a small corrie before a final loose steep up the headwall to a fine view of what's to come. The descent is good with only some monster puddles to deal with before the steep switch backs to the Strath na Sealga and the last easy trail for many miles....
To Achneigie is pretty good going then you are back to single track - wider and easier than what you have just done and actually a great trail, all the way to Sheneval Bothy. From here its another path that steadily deteriorates to a rough, boggy and tussocky line to the loch shore. Not far and you will be distracted by the famous river crossing that is looming ahead.
Crossing the Strath na Sealga.
Much has been written on the internet and talked about in various hostelries, cafes and other gathering points about the crossing of the Strath na Sealga. Its caused a deal of distress over the years and a few fails. I've been across it in a range of weather and river levels and have managed to spend some time paddling about to see what's what. The key is to hit the gravel bar between the river channel and the loch itself. This does seem to move a bit - either downstream if the winter has produced high river levels or upstream if gale force westerly winds have powered waves blowing upstream. Sticking to the 'line' is a good bet but on a leisurely trip through here in 2019 I noted that it was better a couple of meters just down stream of this line. In 2015 when the highest river levels ever experienced were encountered, high winds were blowing big waves off the loch so we went in upstream of the line and this ended up being waist deep (I'm 6'1") as we were actually in the river channel, not on the gravel bar. In 2021 it was nearly as deep but calm and on the 'line' just below knee depth. In 2016,17,18 and 23 it was under 6" deep and easily rideable. When I went through in 2019 it was about 12" deep. It's extremely unlikely for the depths to be outside these ranges so worry not, remove yer socks and shoes and go for a paddle.
2015, wall to wall with waves adding to the challenge 2017, shallow and rideable 2019 (on a leisurely tour) about halfway between the above - depth was less than a foot. And finally 2021 - water also grass to grass as per 2015 but flat calm so only knee deep.
Once across you hit a sandy beach (riders of plus and fat bikes rejoice) and then climb up on a rough and boggy path towards Larachantivore. This section (after a boardwalk) is very boggy and the cows, which tend to loiter here, haven't helped. There looks to be a better way by the river bank as the argocat tracks go this way but I'd have to survey it before recommending it. From Larachantivore the trail does follow the river bank but has sadly been trashed along several sections. It's a case of hopping off and on again, all the while looking up what is undoubtedly the route's hardest climb. Away from the river the trail improves and is actually a great climbing challenge, largely rideable into the corrie. Thereafter the gradient and roughness ramp up and the zig zags up the headwall are a real scramble.
Top of the headwall looking all the way back to Sheneval bothy. Getting this beast up the steep climb was something of a challenge. In 2015 Worse was to come....
Over the headwall you are rewarded with stunning views and another of the routes highlights. If you are doing the Poolewe variant you are now facing 17k of divine trail. Hard going in places but one of the most rewarding sections of the route. After a steady climb on a lovely trail to the narrow defile into the Allt Bruthach is the fab descent to Fionn Loch and a classic Highland Trail view.
This is now suffering and quite rough and loose in places. In 2015 it was remarkably smooth at ten years old but the last 6 years seems to have seen a marked deterioration. All rideable with care apart from a couple of washed out burn crossings. From the valley floor you get a breather to the loch and across the causeway before things get interesting again. From the loch end the trail climbs somewhat but it all goes good. Drop steeply down to the Strathan Buidhe, cross the burn and choose your route....
To Poolewe things get better and better, after a short climb the route levels out and then starts a long but steady descent to the woods. This is a gem of a trail being narrow, twisty, fairly smooth with a few nice techy bits and great views out to sea. People ride up this section purely to ride back down it again - a great way to spend a few hours. Into the woods you join a rough forest track which gets progressively smoother. This track once hosted the 'cow shit bog' which caused much distress in 2013 - 2015. Its been largely sorted now and even after the wet of 2021 was nothing more than a puddle. Out of the woods its a smooth doubletrack to the road to Poolewe. Historical note - there used to be 'no cycling' signs all over this track pre land reform, somewhat in discord with the so called Letterewe 'accord' but these are now long gone. Poolewe has a good shop, a cafe opposite and the Poolewe hotel a bit further along the road - definitely a good one with fab food and a very friendly manager.
From Poolewe you get a brief breather on the road before the Tollie path. This found few friends in 2013-15, largely down to the fact that many people tackled it straight after doing Fisherfield and were therefore wrecked. In isolation its a hoot, albeit hard going in places. The climb is good on a well built trail. This was one of the first paths to be done up when Scottish Natural Heritage and the Upland Path Advisory Group was developing the Upland Path Standards in the late '90's. Unfortunately the first bit of the descent got partially trashed a couple of years after it was finished and its all received bugger all maintenance since.
The descent is super technical with multiple erosion lines down which a careful eye is needed to stay on the pedals - think early 00's downhill courses. It then coalesces into singletrack but there are regular sections which have been washed out and this is where the problems creep in as it can get frustrating after a 15 hour day. It also drags on way beyond what the map would suggest. A couple of short climbs add to the pain and then the last section is a real mess with much of it flooding after wet weather. Watch out for these sections as there are huge stone cross drains in the middle of them which will swallow a wheel whole, and totally invisible under the water and mud. Exiting to the Slattedale FC car park is definitely a cause for celebration as you have effectively cracked the route. Still plenty hard riding to go but nothing like what you've now done. The cruise along the A832 checking out the Torridon Hills, Slioch and the serene waters of Loch Marree is the reward. Look out for Letterewe lodge on the north shore and try and pick out the postie path after it.
The Postie Path
I suspect this variation will find its way back into the route at some point so herewith the description. Back track to Fisherfield and the crossing of the Strathan Buidhe. Turn left on a roughish but generally good trail up the narrow defile and over the moor above Letterewe. The views south to Torridon are superb.
As is the descent down a smooth and twisting trail to just above the big lodge. It's not accessible other than by foot, bike or boat but this is a real enclave of civilisation that for many years was off limits to all but the owner, tenants and the Postie. The Letterewe Accord changed all that and post land reform even cyclists get ignored... Round the top of the estate gardens the route is on a good track ending just past a small cottage. A rough path takes you to an old gate in a fence and then you are on the Postie Path proper. Yes, the postman did indeed use this to deliver mail to the estate. Why they didn't use a boat, history does not record. It's worth noting however that the many postie paths across Scotland pose the same question. Maybe the post office felt it was better to wear out the postman's legs than risk him on a boat. Anyway, onwards on what is for me, one of my favourite bits of the route. It's a narrow trail, little used and so grassy in the main with an odd stony bit. Check your nav after a k as its easy to miss a left fork and end up having to scramble up a rocky bank to regain it. Then its a lovely path snaking across the hillside, undulating gently up and down. Crossing Alt Dearg caused much pain and alarm in 2016 due to two huge fallen trees but these are now gone so its a short steep descent and climb before you are back on more good path.
One of the nicest sections
Beyond here it gets trickier as the side slope steepens and trailside rocks threaten an unwarranted sojourn down the hill. Watch out for a few remains of old houses along here and thank the Laird for turfing their owners out in the 1700's. The trail then climbs up a narrow defile which is the first real check and push. Beyond here you ride into a wide bay with more ruins. Bracken can make this a bit vague at first but keep on the 'line' and you'll be fine. After this there is another defile making further height with a bit of a scramble near the top. Then its the hardest section of the route as there are many boulders strewn across the trail requiring hopping off and on to make progress. Its not for long and then you are faced with a short but steep descent. It is in fact all rideable although a fairly loose interpretation of the path line is required to bypass a couple of steep steppy bits. At the bottom of this you join the main trail to Slioch and things get much easier. It's still 3.5k however so don't relax just yet. The going is generally good with a few short rocky interludes. Finally you will emerge at Kinlochewe nigh on 35 miles after last touching a road. There is a cafe at the garage, the KLE Hotel, a shop and another cafe on the way out of the village - another Highland Trail favourite.
You may wonder, reading this, why many people have cursed the postie path section. I've now done it as part of the Highland Trail and as part of a leisurely three day tour through the Fannichs, Fisherfield and Kintail and thoroughly enjoyed it both times. I think the problem is like the Tollie path - people are doing it after a long day and a lot of hard riding. So the techyness leads to frustration and failures in sense of humour and general hatred. Also if you are tired, long bits of the 'easy' section can lead to much swearing as you fail to keep your front wheel from clipping the many trail side rocks. I would also say that doing it beyond the end of June is probably a no-no due to the bracken which was just starting to be an issue when I rode it in June 2019.
Kinlochewe to Fort Augustus - distance 90 miles.
Through Torridon, Kintail and back to Lochaber with a few tricky sections, some nice trails and plenty of easy riding between. Re-supply is available at the Strathcarron Hotel, Dornie (ace shop and two pubs,) Inverinate garage (open 7-8) and Tomich.
In 2015, the Torridon section as it was then broke a few spirits after what had just gone, especially as several people got snowed on over the high pass (666m all the way from sea level). For this reason Alan changed it to the current variation which makes for yet another great bit of riding with one of the best descents in the UK as a finisher. After 5k of road an easy track takes you to Coulin Estate and then above the loch. A short fast descent follows to the turn off to the Teahouse bothy. This track is motorway standard thanks to improvements done as part of yet another micro hydro electric scheme. The teahouse climb is a gem of narrow technical single track. Pretty much all rideable with a good granny gear and generally dry and stony. It's also scenery overload with the jagged Torridons all around.
Top of the teahouse climb looking up into Coire Lair which the route came out of in 2014 and 2015. I've no pics of the climb or descent as I was too busy riding it to take any!
The descent is a mix of more narrow stony trail and large rock outcrops which is why its earned such a reputation. Some of it is hairy and with plenty of opportunities to smash yourself up. Its nearly all rideable (Ok its all rideable, but I've always failed on at least two bits) and worth encountering at a time which enables you to make the most of it, i.e. not at the end of an 18 hour day or in the dark. A final bit of double track takes you to the station and then more quiet A road to Attadale. You pass the Strathcarron hotel along here which is a good food and digs source. Loch Carron is 3k off route with more shops, pubs and a cafe.
From Attadale your on a good track which follows the glen bottom then climbs up through woodland. Another hydro electric scheme went in here a few years ago so watch out for its access track which is technically off route. The turn off leads to another track deterioration, first to a rough but dryish track and then to a rutted, stony and oft mucky track out of the woods and over the moor. This then dumps you into a very boggy section down to Glen Ling. Relax as this is the last of the bogs on the route. Along the glen is the last nadgery trail of the route - narrow, rocky and steep in places. Watch nav to ensure you hit the gate, not the stile. It improves for the last k to the farm. Road follows all the way to Morvich including a big climb on the old road high above the A87. Note that the Dornie shop is now closed down - a real loss as it was ace! There is a loo (and shower!) in the community centre next to the main road. Just before the turn off to Morvich is the Inverinate garage, a great food source.
Up Glen Lichd is an easy track, usually with a tailwind. The fun recommences at the glen head. This is NTS territory and they try to discourage bike riding by making their trails as rough as possible. Fortunately the weather comes to our rescue by washing out most of their work and leaving something fairly rideable. How much of the climb you ride depends on your state. Not much probably but with fresh legs a fair bit can be done.
The steepest part of the climb
Once the headwall is gained then it's all rather fine - an easy and well drained trail with a few rocky sections for interest, slowly climbing to the coll over to Glen Affric, with views to the Five Sisters of Kintail to your right. The singletrack ends at Camban Bothy and beyond here is a fine stony track, albeit with a few rough sections, down the wide strath, past the Youth Hostel, improving steadily to the loch. Note there are a couple of rivers to cross but there are bridge alternatives to both of them.
From Athnamulloch at the west end of Loch Affric is a long length of easy forest track, all the way to Tommich. Tommich Hotel is another good one and we received a warm welcome last year. The Pylon climb is next, actually one of the route's longest / biggest in height gain. It's been done up again so really is motorway standard both up and down to Torgyle Bridge. From the summit on a clear day you'll spy the Corrieairyack summit that you were at a few days ago. An old concrete hut provides useful shelter if the weather is bad. From Torgyle bridge the forest track continues until you turn off up the line of Wade's Road. This is good going on a single track that is all that remains of this historic route. After one last river crossing it climbs up to another pylon project improved track. This takes you into the descent but you turn off this onto more military road and a fun switchback descent to Fort Augustus. Treat yourself to more Pizza.
Fort August to Tyndrum, The last 75 miles....
...are easy, mainly, with plenty of food supply places. To Fort William it used to follow the Great Glen Cycleway which is pan flat. New for '23 (due to forestry works and a micro hydro scheme) the route uses the Great Glen way and a new section above Loch Lochy. This is a mix of fire roads and smooth gravel path, including a nice new one above Loch Lochy. All good going, just some bonus climbs to test your 475mile legs. Near the end of Loch Lochy you hit the road for a bit then turn off for more fun gravel path at the loch end. Note that this section is easy to miss and has caused numerous DQ's over the years. Then it's 10 miles of flat towpath and you have arrived at the Outdoor Capital of Scotland aka Fort Bill. The route goes right past the co-op but there is also a 24hr garage just off route as well as the Morrisons cafe also off route near the station.
You're on the home straight but be prepared for plenty of big hills. Straight out of Glen Nevis is the first but all on smooth forest track. Then its the now much improved West Highland Way (again!) It used to be horribly eroded, had a desperate flight of timber steps, and was generally best avoided unless you had to. Overall now its pretty good going, with just a few ups and downs to punish your 520 mile legs. It rejoins Wades road which is a classic rocky track climbing steadily into the corrie. Time the descent between groups of WHW walkers as its a blast followed by an ace gnarly descent to KLL. It's all rideable these days after improvements a few years ago, albeit steep in places. KLL has a good co-op, the Tailrace inn and the Ice Factor cafe, all on route. Stock up and then get stuck into the killer - the biggest climb on the route from sea level to 550m at the top of the Devils Staircase. Smooth track for the first half and the WHW off the top of this is also now much improved so generally good going / pushing. Likewise the descent which is a loose in places and has some gargantuan cross drains to negotiate but fine if you take it steady.
The trail to the Kingshouse Hotel is pretty good, albeit rocky in places, and the ski centre climb a steady grade and generally easy going.
Approaching the summit of the ski centre climb. This used to be the last on the route of note. No longer....
The descent is cobbled but fast, definitely worth doing in the early hours or late evening to avoid WHW walkers when all you want to do is go brakes off. Finally the bonus climb is more WHW standard being eroded on the climb (the walkers descent) but fun and smooth on the descent to Bridge of Orchy. Just watch out for a few fierce cross drains.
Me pushing the last of the climb - this really is the last one on the route of any note. Remember to go right to the summit cairn!
Then its a final good track back to Auch Farm and the reverse of the outward 5k to finish. Congratulations, your done! if you've read this far you've done well....
A word on bivvy spots.
Another oft asked question is where to bivvy along the route. Obviously there are a few bothies, both MBA and others, as well as a few cheeky shelters. But the bothies tend to be full these days and some of the antics used to get into cheeky shelters have been a bit dubious over the years so given the routes popularity now are probably best avoided. In terms of places to bivvy its probably easier to say where not to. Specifically where the route climbs up to or past the 500m barrier or thereby. Even in benign weather these sections offer a poor choice of spots as the ground will be rough, tussocky and / or boggy. This terrain type also prevails below 500m on some sections. So the best advice is to make sure you know where the high bits are and anywhere else lacking in shelter or level ground and ensure you don't have to kip on them, especially if the weather is rubbish. I've used and spied a few good spots along the route which I'm happy to impart:-
Fort A - just out of the town is a classic Highland Trail bivvy location. Specifically in the woods off the Great Glen Way all the way to Inver Moriston. Be warned - a couple clearly get used by local youths.
Climb out of Glen Morriston - plenty good spots in the wood that are nice and sheltered. Once you leave the woods there is very little until the Loch.
Corrimony - as you drop down to the estate you pass some nice grassy fields - fill yer boots!
Strath Glass to Contin - The terrain along the track is generally very rough but you can get pitched by some ruins just before the track climbs steeply away from a burn crossing. You'll have to get across the river though (there is a plank bridge). Otherwise you will have to wait until the edge of Fairburn estate. Note the 'Hydro bothy' by Orrin dam is no more.
Contin to Oykle Bridge - Plenty of spots along here in the sheltered glen bottoms, especially just before Alladale lodge.
Glen Cassley - a good target for the Sunday night, and typically sees at least half of the group start ensconced in it. At the bottom there is a great spot in the woods by Achness water falls just past the hotel - look out for a rough gate by the road on the left. I was one of a group who used this in 2015 and used it again in '21, both times in foul weather. A mile or so further up the glen more woodland offers shelter, level ground and a
smooth pitch. Beyond here there are still some bits of woods that will provide
shelter with a bit of imagination. Right up by the power station there is a nice level bit of grass but it will be a bit breezy. If you get over the hill there is a great spot at the head of the loch. Also breezy but when I used it this was a benefit as it kept the midges at bay!
The northern loop - on the face of it do this bit in one go but there are a few spots if you need to stop. In Glen golly, where the track drops to the river side, is a marginal spot (a bit rough) but very sheltered. A breezier spot is by the bridge before the steep climb. Thereafter you could have a reasonably sheltered pitch by the burn before the final climb to the Bealach Horn. In the woods at the bottom of the descent is also sheltered, if you are feeling keen on day 2.
Loch Glendhu - The track over from Achfarry passes through wild and rough terrain. Once you get to the loch shore things improve and there are plenty of good spots. If you were desperate Glendhu bothy is 5k off route along the track east.
Kylesku to Lochinver - Many have pitched up in a roadside ditch along the Drumbeg road but if you hang on there are some great beach bivvy spots along this section. Clashnessie beach is the first with a great spot in the machair. Clachtoll has an official campsite but you can also pitch up behind the beach at Stoer. On the trail to Lochinver there are some nice spots just before the official campsite at Achmelvich.
Lochinver to Oykle Bridge - not much! Aside from outside suileg bothy (or in it) the terrain is generally too rough for anything other than a very marginal pitch. In 2021 I'd thought of stopping by Cam Loch which does offer a nice spot, albeit breezy.
Just past Oykel bridge - you can get a good pitch in a field just off route before the track crosses the river - turn right just before the bridge and keep on for 50metres - it's a midge spot though!
Glen Achall - offers many good spots, ideal if you want a lie in to get the Ullapool Tescos.
Fisherfield - There are many good pitches on this section, just be warned there isn't much shelter. Along Loch an Nidd would be fab with the Sgurr Ban slabs providing a fine morning view. At the bottom of the track over from Dundonald there is another nice grassy bit and just along the track there is plenty of gorse to offer some shelter. After Sheneval bothy Larachantivore is the next opportunity as the front lawn of the cottage is smooth and level. Just be warned that the cows have access to this so check they aren't in the area. Notwithstanding my comment above, one of the routes top high level bivvy spots is located near the summit of the climb over to Fionn Loch. Its in a small triangle of ground between the path, a burn and the wee loch (Lochan Feith Mor.) Ideal if its not too breezy and you are trying to avoid the midges lurking in the valley below. Otherwise there are a few spots at the glen bottom near Carnmore bothy and by the loch.
People have bivvied along the postie path but there isn't much level ground and it will be death by midges if its mild.
Poolewe - I'd expected to use this one in '21 but ended up doing the Tollie path instead. Go along the sea front past the camp site, a bit further and turn right on a way marked trail into the National Trust ground. Just along the path is a woodland on the right and a grassy field to the left offering a fine sheltered spot. The public loos almost make it en-suite!
Slatterdale - by the shores of Loch Maree. This used to be a campervan hang out but it's now barriered off at night, so makes for a dry, level and sheltered spot with a loo to boot. Beware - its midge hell.
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