Of Fife that is...
I've been hanging on for my August bivvy, wanting to head up to the Cairngorms but only if the weather was good. The forecast for every weekend this month has been poor up there but in hindsight I should have just gone anyway as actual versus forecasted weather has been particularly diametrically opposite in recent weeks. And once again everywhere north of the Tay was predicted to be wet but after many changes was looking pretty good here; so Fife it is then. In a bid to avoid yet another local woodland bivvy I got moving early (well 12) and headed east. The notional plan was to repeat my trip of May '22, less the mosquitos. But I figured if I did the Pilgrims way bit on the way out, by the time I got there it would be quiet. Then the Coastal path return would be done early morning so also quiet.
So first up was to get to and through the Lomond hills, done by various trails and back roads. And it was warm and sunny! Looking north it did indeed look rather murky but the Fife coast looked stunning.
Looking east over the Fair Kingdom, Lomonds ahead.
After a pause for pie and cake at Markinch it was off through the rich farmland of mid Fife. But on reaching Kennoway I noted a large cloud over Clatto hill, my next obstacle, whereas the coast was still in the sun. So with a sense of inevitability I headed down to Leven (for the third time this week), trying not to look at the new rail line or anything to do with what fills my weekdays. Then east along the coastal path, narrowly missing the rain. I've not been on this for several years for various reasons. Thanks to being early evening by now, it was pretty quiet.
A fab piece of sandy singletrack behind the beach. Why aren't I on my fatbike?? That said, when the wretched rail line to Leven opens up I will be able to train it pretty much onto the beach.
Looking back to sunny Leven...
And lots of changes. A new golf course has gone in behind the dunes at Dumbarnie and I noted the huge windfarm going up out to sea some 10 years since it was first mooted.
Beyond Elie the coastal path gets better and better - narrow, twisty and with plenty of minor rock obstacles to keep you amused. There were a few people about near to the various villages you pass through but in between I had the place largely to myself. Bivvy spots abound and I was running various options for my August BAM through my mind as I progressed east.
About the hardest of the beach sections if you are on a fatbike. Most of it is fine but the local geology puts these long angled rock outcrops across it all which are tricky / impossible to ride through.
Annoyingly my chain was sounding a bit dry and I was without oil. I thought the garage at Pittenweem would provide but it's one of those automated affairs. I briefly debated rooting through the bin for an old oil bottle but this would be fruitless I'd no doubt as no-one puts oil in cars anymore.... So on we go, more fun trails, sea, sand and sun - who needs foreign holidays!
I got moaned at twice in Anstruther - once for cycling on a footpath (which was 4m wide, also a vehicle access and a core path so I was in the right) and once for going the wrong way up a one way street which was also a core path so I was also in the right. I figured the Co-op would supply oil of some description but all they had was either a large can of WD40 or half a liter of engine oil. What happened to those nice little bottles of 3 in 1 oil everyone used to sell! In the end I grabbed the WD, skooshed some on the chain and skooshed a load into a bag which I hoped to preserve for further use (all my fame bag contents now smell of WD40...) The can was left by the bike racks, hopefully for some other cyclist to liberate.
Food was my next priority but every chippy in Anstruther was queued out the door so onwards to Crail. This is about the best bit of the coastal path and there a few really nice techy bits and two big step ups which I recalled in time to give a good go (a one on the first and a five on the second, which I've only ever got up on an unladen Ice Cream Truck!) The Crail chippy looked fairly quiet but I still had to wait for half an hour. It was worth it though as it was one of the best fish suppers I've had in many a year. I also had a beer with them, breaking another rule as there is an alcohol ban in the village public spaces. Fortunately the over priced craft beer looked like a can of juice so my misdemenour went unnoticed.
Dusk was a'falling as I headed away from the coast on an old railway line. I'd still vaguely thought of bivvying in Tentsmuir forest but this would have needed lights. Instead I headed for a spot I'd scoped out, right on the coast some time ago. And why not - it was mild, little wind and although quite cloudy, dry.
I stood drinking more beer and watching the last of the sunset, noting the light from the lonely Bell Rock lighthouse which looks like it's going to have some company with all these turbines going up. Then I was startled out of my daze by a hail from behind. Cursing myself for choosing a spot close to civilisation on a bank holiday I turned to see a guy with a rucksack approaching out of the gloom. In the event he was cheery and also after a fly bivvy by the sea albeit on foot. We chatted for a bit about bikes, bivvying and the weather before retiring to our separate shelters.
Morning view...
The Buddo Rock - one of several funky rock features along the route.
I'd a good nights kip although rain came through a few times, including at first light when I heard my neighbour packing up. For me it was the usual leisurely breakfast before departing into the sun. I figured on an easy and directish route home given big clouds to the west. A few back roads and trails got me onto the Pilgrims way but I couldn't resist the White Chimneys cafe at Pitscottie for a fine second breakfast sat out in the sun. Rather than back track to the Pilgrims way which would end up with me back to where I was yesterday I hoofed it along the road a ways then onto a fine route over the hill and down to Cupar. I could have picked up plan A here - the coastal path on the north side of Fife - but clouds were building so instead I took off due west by back road and trail.
Falkland provided a much needed loo and a snack followed by more Lomonds trails. Climbing up through the woods a heavy shower did catch me but it had dried up by the time I emerged on the long climb up to West Lomond. On a whim I took off down a steep and rocky trail heading for more crazy rock formations:
This is the 'Bunnet Stane' which readers of 'Further Adventures in Rough Stuff' may recognise. Another shower came through before drying up for the last easy miles home.
Which made a total of 195k, not bad in a weekend with no planning. I've worked out a few variants of this route which would make a straight 200k and I will do it in a oner one day!
