My route down involved training it to Paisley via Glasgow and then down NCN 7 to Ayr, cut across to Galloway forest and doss down in the trees somewhere. Thereafter it would be a leisurely ride east then South to the (hopefully) sunny Dales.
Arriving in Glasgow Central I noted a train leaving for Ayr in 5 minutes - hmm cheat time? Instead I got the slow train to Paisley canal as the station platform leads right into the cycleway. NCN 7 follows an old railway line for around 20 odd miles from Paisley. This was meant as a bit of memory laning for me as the last time I was here was in '99 when I worked for Sustrans. I spent a lot of time on this route doing upgrades, bridge repairs and putting sculptures in so it was nice to see how it was looking 15 years later. There were tons of folk on it - all ages and bike types.
This thing was a total nightmare to erect - I was young and stupid in those days and trying to co-ordinate a crane and two excavators to get it in place was a bit of a challenge. Its supposed to represent the northern lights...
After Glengarnock your on a back road to Kilwinning and then its a mix of cycleway and back streets to Ayr. The route gets a bit convoluted in places but its better than the A78. I came down this way on a bike tour in '92 before the cycleway was put in and ended up on said A78 - total nightmare! In a couple of places I did take a few on road short cuts just to chop a couple of k off my run. Ayr sea front was mobbed - I had chips but forgot the mandatory food photo - sorry...
From Ayr NCN 7 heads up over the heads of Ayr in a big loop south so I headed on a more direct route to Maybole. This was the end of the flat riding and the road climbed in earnest. Maybole provided food for the night and a couple of much needed bananas. There was a bit of respite for a few miles to Crosshill then it was climb, climb, climb on the wee road to Glentrool. This is quite a bump - in fact 2 bumps as you go up to 340 m, down to 145 and then back up to 345m.
Looking up to the Nick of the Balloch - 345m
As per the rain arrived at the start of this climb but I didn't need to put waterproofs on until the way down to Glentrool when the rain came down in sheets. It eased off as I went alongside Lochtrool and stopped as the road ran out and became an easy track. This is signed as NCN7 with a dire warning about needing a mountainbike and all manner of kit to survive but the fargo handled it with ease. In '98 I lead a team of volunteers to build a path from the bottom of this track along the line of the Southern upland way. All I remember was the horrendous midges, the hassle getting plant and materials as you were so far away from everywhere and continuous rain all week....
Climbing out of Glentrool over to Loch Dee.
The rain kept coming and going, albeit fairly lightly but worse, the midges were horrific - every time you stopped they materialised instantly. I'd say that Galloway midges are actually worse than their West Highland cousins - maybe its due to there being less victims to feed on around here. Just over the hill from Glen Trool I'd sussed out a bothy on the MBA site - White Laggan. I suspected it would be full of folk doing the Southern Upland Way on this damp evening but lo and behold, it was empty. I could have gone on as it was only 6pm put the rain and midges made up my mind. No wet tent to manage and the ability to hang up damp kit and have a relaxing evening reading and eating. Total distance for the day was 90 miles.
Thursday dawned with the forecasted sun shining and much mist rising off the hills.
Loch Dee, blue sky and sun.
I cruised down to Clatteringshaws loch and tarmac, made a quick diversion to the visitor centre for some ablutions and then headed south east along the Raiders Road forest drive. All day Wednesday I'd had a head wind but now heading east it was giving me a gentle but welcome helping hand. The raiders road was super smooth gravel. At this time there was no other traffic on it and I made rapid progress to Loch Ken. You can follow estate roads and then an easy track through the RSPB reserve to the bottom of the Loch, then pick up a wee road which avoids the A762. This was followed by a couple of B roads, one short but extremely unpleasant section of the A75 (turning right across a busy trunk road with a climbing lane in the other direction and no central island...) and then I was back onto NCN 7 along the old military road - a quiet C road that undulates gently toward Dumfries.
From Ayr NCN 7 heads up over the heads of Ayr in a big loop south so I headed on a more direct route to Maybole. This was the end of the flat riding and the road climbed in earnest. Maybole provided food for the night and a couple of much needed bananas. There was a bit of respite for a few miles to Crosshill then it was climb, climb, climb on the wee road to Glentrool. This is quite a bump - in fact 2 bumps as you go up to 340 m, down to 145 and then back up to 345m.
Looking up to the Nick of the Balloch - 345m
As per the rain arrived at the start of this climb but I didn't need to put waterproofs on until the way down to Glentrool when the rain came down in sheets. It eased off as I went alongside Lochtrool and stopped as the road ran out and became an easy track. This is signed as NCN7 with a dire warning about needing a mountainbike and all manner of kit to survive but the fargo handled it with ease. In '98 I lead a team of volunteers to build a path from the bottom of this track along the line of the Southern upland way. All I remember was the horrendous midges, the hassle getting plant and materials as you were so far away from everywhere and continuous rain all week....
Climbing out of Glentrool over to Loch Dee.
The rain kept coming and going, albeit fairly lightly but worse, the midges were horrific - every time you stopped they materialised instantly. I'd say that Galloway midges are actually worse than their West Highland cousins - maybe its due to there being less victims to feed on around here. Just over the hill from Glen Trool I'd sussed out a bothy on the MBA site - White Laggan. I suspected it would be full of folk doing the Southern Upland Way on this damp evening but lo and behold, it was empty. I could have gone on as it was only 6pm put the rain and midges made up my mind. No wet tent to manage and the ability to hang up damp kit and have a relaxing evening reading and eating. Total distance for the day was 90 miles.
Thursday dawned with the forecasted sun shining and much mist rising off the hills.
Loch Dee, blue sky and sun.
I cruised down to Clatteringshaws loch and tarmac, made a quick diversion to the visitor centre for some ablutions and then headed south east along the Raiders Road forest drive. All day Wednesday I'd had a head wind but now heading east it was giving me a gentle but welcome helping hand. The raiders road was super smooth gravel. At this time there was no other traffic on it and I made rapid progress to Loch Ken. You can follow estate roads and then an easy track through the RSPB reserve to the bottom of the Loch, then pick up a wee road which avoids the A762. This was followed by a couple of B roads, one short but extremely unpleasant section of the A75 (turning right across a busy trunk road with a climbing lane in the other direction and no central island...) and then I was back onto NCN 7 along the old military road - a quiet C road that undulates gently toward Dumfries.
Dumfries provided food courtesy of Greggs and a tin of gas courtesy of halfords. Thereafter it was more C and B roads along the Solway Firth to Gretna via Annan. Into Englandshire then more wee roads and one A road to Brampton. This had been one of my possible places for a camp but it was only 4.30 so I settled for a cuppa and an incredibly good scone with jam and cream, bought food for tea and then spun gently up the hill heading due south. This area between the M6 and the North pennines has a network of B, C and U roads which I've explored extensively on a motorbike so it was nice to be pedalling gently along them in the early evening sun. I'd sussed out a campsite from Cool Camping about 15 miles south of Brampton and this seemed a good place to stop. As I headed through the village of Kirkoswald I spotted a fine looking pub with benches outside - there followed a screech of brakes then refreshment!
There was a lot of chat in the pub about where people were going to watch the race - from normal people!
1 mile later and I pulled into Mains Farm campsite. This is a top spot and very quiet. It also had a bunkhouse and did baggage transport along the nearby C2C route. As I was eating tea a bunch of guys appeared on road bikes - they had cycled down the A7 from Edinburgh to here in one day - pretty good going as its about 125 miles and they had headwinds all the way. The next day they were heading for Leeds to see the grand depart - nice one. For me the total distance was 101 miles.
Friday dawned overcast with rain clearly coming. I got packed up dry but it started as soon as I set out. Only 50 miles to do today to the town of Hawes in Wensleydale but I knew I would have to fight for it. Soon it was lashing down with a strong headwind - head down and pedal. The good news was that I was staying in my folks static caravan in the town so at least I would have a dry night. After 3 hours of this the weather cleared and the sun came out for the last few miles. There were signs of the race everywhere and loads of cyclists out. Cars were giving me a wide berth and thumbs up signs and the town was mobbed with thousands of bikes and people - fantastic! I stopped for a jar from one of several good pubs in the town watching all this cycling culture. If only it was always like this...
On the hillside above the 'Col du Buttertubs' (honestly, I ask you!)
I'd just got into my luxury digs when the heavens opened once more. It lashed it down non stop until the early hours of the morning. The forecast for Saturday was good but I had my doubts... In the event it dawned warm and sunny. The buttertubs road was already filling up with people so I got my gear together sharpish and headed up there. Rather than take the easy way up the road I followed a Byway / bridleway I knew to avoid the crowds and bring me out near the top of the road climb
Apparently you can go mountainbiking on a fargo
After much waiting, several hundred cars and bikes, the bizareness of the caravan and various team cars, the race arrived...
WTF?
Jens Voight - age 42 and smashing 'em up the hill - star!
Cavs backside heading out of shot...
'Oh my legs hurting, give me medical attention!' hitching a lift up the hill is allowed apparently
From Jens going through until the broom wagon went by was about 10 minutes, after a 4 hour wait. It was well worth it though. The town was still buzzing until the wee hours, so I soaked up the atmosphere and a few beers while it lasted.
There was a lot of chat in the pub about where people were going to watch the race - from normal people!
1 mile later and I pulled into Mains Farm campsite. This is a top spot and very quiet. It also had a bunkhouse and did baggage transport along the nearby C2C route. As I was eating tea a bunch of guys appeared on road bikes - they had cycled down the A7 from Edinburgh to here in one day - pretty good going as its about 125 miles and they had headwinds all the way. The next day they were heading for Leeds to see the grand depart - nice one. For me the total distance was 101 miles.
Friday dawned overcast with rain clearly coming. I got packed up dry but it started as soon as I set out. Only 50 miles to do today to the town of Hawes in Wensleydale but I knew I would have to fight for it. Soon it was lashing down with a strong headwind - head down and pedal. The good news was that I was staying in my folks static caravan in the town so at least I would have a dry night. After 3 hours of this the weather cleared and the sun came out for the last few miles. There were signs of the race everywhere and loads of cyclists out. Cars were giving me a wide berth and thumbs up signs and the town was mobbed with thousands of bikes and people - fantastic! I stopped for a jar from one of several good pubs in the town watching all this cycling culture. If only it was always like this...
On the hillside above the 'Col du Buttertubs' (honestly, I ask you!)
I'd just got into my luxury digs when the heavens opened once more. It lashed it down non stop until the early hours of the morning. The forecast for Saturday was good but I had my doubts... In the event it dawned warm and sunny. The buttertubs road was already filling up with people so I got my gear together sharpish and headed up there. Rather than take the easy way up the road I followed a Byway / bridleway I knew to avoid the crowds and bring me out near the top of the road climb
Apparently you can go mountainbiking on a fargo
After much waiting, several hundred cars and bikes, the bizareness of the caravan and various team cars, the race arrived...
WTF?
Jens Voight - age 42 and smashing 'em up the hill - star!
Cavs backside heading out of shot...
'Oh my legs hurting, give me medical attention!' hitching a lift up the hill is allowed apparently
From Jens going through until the broom wagon went by was about 10 minutes, after a 4 hour wait. It was well worth it though. The town was still buzzing until the wee hours, so I soaked up the atmosphere and a few beers while it lasted.
Sunday was 45 miles of easy riding up to my folks near Darlington. For forms sake I road over the butter tubs road (fully loaded I kicked numerous roadie ass up it) to Swaledale. I was amazed at the number of campsites along the road set up just for the tour. Also loads of cyclists and people giving me thumbs up and smiles. All cars that passed me gave me loads of room a fair few gave thumbs up and waves - I wonder how long this will last....
I Spent some QT with the folks for the rest of the day and then on Monday headed for home. First up was a ride to Kielder. My route was more touring goodness - firstly via the old waggon ways linking Bishop Auckland to Durham and Consett - 28 miles of continuous off road on a mix of tar and dust cycleways; followed a by a few of the famously fierce road climbs from Derwentside to Tyndale. From here I picked my way through a route of quiet roads, bits of cycleway and rolling country to Bellingham then finished with the lakeside path round Kielder water. Finally I pitched up at the Kielder campsite another 90 miles done.
I Spent some QT with the folks for the rest of the day and then on Monday headed for home. First up was a ride to Kielder. My route was more touring goodness - firstly via the old waggon ways linking Bishop Auckland to Durham and Consett - 28 miles of continuous off road on a mix of tar and dust cycleways; followed a by a few of the famously fierce road climbs from Derwentside to Tyndale. From here I picked my way through a route of quiet roads, bits of cycleway and rolling country to Bellingham then finished with the lakeside path round Kielder water. Finally I pitched up at the Kielder campsite another 90 miles done.
Funky bridge on the Kielder path.
Kielder campsite is another famous midge spot but the breeze was just enough to keep them at bay. After tea I wandered along to the nearby Anglers Arms and was gratified to see they had a couple of ales on. So I sampled a few before retiring to the tent for a sound sleep.
Tuesday dawned to the unwelcome sound of heavy rain, contrary to the last forecast I'd seen. It kept easing off to allow the midges a go at me (Kielder midges are indeed nasty) but looked set in. No messing about I just got my head down and rode. I'd vaguely scoped a route out at Mum and Dads but winged it on the tiny GPS screen and actually it was pretty good - mostly on quiet roads with only the odd busy(er) bit either side of Hawick. The weather cleared up after Hawick so I had sunshine passing through the borders tracing roads I'd last ridden when I lived in Edinburgh, many years ago. Heading through Edinburgh was also a bit of memory laning as I'd not ridden a bike through busy city streets since 2005. All good fun but I'm glad I don't have to do it anymore. I got home just before the rain clouds came back in. Mileage for this day, 100!
So in total I did about 500 miles. The fargo was brilliant - comfy for long hours in the saddle and just at home on forest tracks as tarmac. The wtb nanos also seemed the ideal tyre for this kind of riding. I was carrying kit in my now usual bikepacking set up of frame bag, bar harness and saddle bag and it worked great. I was surprised at the number of people checking the set up out and a fair few folk asked me about it having never seen anything like it before. I tend to think this set up is common these days but it seems we are still niche...
So in total I did about 500 miles. The fargo was brilliant - comfy for long hours in the saddle and just at home on forest tracks as tarmac. The wtb nanos also seemed the ideal tyre for this kind of riding. I was carrying kit in my now usual bikepacking set up of frame bag, bar harness and saddle bag and it worked great. I was surprised at the number of people checking the set up out and a fair few folk asked me about it having never seen anything like it before. I tend to think this set up is common these days but it seems we are still niche...
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