5/5
Well I finally made it to a more exotic location for this one. It was also my warmest bivvy since January!
After a leisurely drive up the A9 to Blair Atholl (rush hour plus lots of tourists) I abandoned the heap and headed up Glen Tilt. The weather had been funny all day with intermittent showers of dreich and lots of cloud. It had looked sunny as I drove north but by the time I'd departed it was decidedly grey looking. Fortunately the stiff breeze was behind me so I made good progress up the glen, emerging at the top at around 8.30. A few spots presented themselves for stopping but I fancied a bit of shelter so pressed on until the ruins of Bynack Lodge. By this time it was so gloomy I'd had to take off my shades and sure enough as I pitched the tarp there was a faint hint of drizzle in the air.... In the event it was dry, warm and pleasant night.
The next morning there was no sign of the forecasted heatwave but as usual I was totally over dressed so no problems. Next up was the infamous geldie crossing. True to form it was somewhat deeper than expected all thanks to the large amount of snow still hanging around above 700m. This set the pattern for the weekend. Any burn or river that was fed above this height was fairly flowing.
I managed to ride it with only a dab at the end (on a rock so no wet feet) so was quite pleased. It didn't last as my route took me along to Linn of Quoich and I'd forgotten the bridge there now no longer crosses the river.... Of course the ford was deep enough to go over my (goretex) boots - I blame the Jones' low BB! I'd thought of doing Glen Gairn but the single track crosses the gairn itself twice as well as a couple of burns flowing off Ben Avon which would be high given the snow melt. Instead I ground up the big track out of Invercauld over to Glen Gairn as per the CL route. Just as I crested the summit an eagle soared away from me and circled for a while over the glen. Bombing down into Glen gairn confirmed my choice - the Gairn was high and you could see the burns flowing off Ben Avon as white torrents.
I had an early lunch at Loch builg lodge wondering how the CL group starters were getting on. The sun was now beating down and I had a strong tailwind. The firestation café in Tomintoul provided lunch no. 2. I was heading for my friends place near Aberlour but instead of an easy cruise down the road I turned off on a trail into the Braes of Glenlivet and then after a bit of navigational faffing picked up a track from Ladder foot into the top end of Glenlivet itself. I stopped to check out what I'd thought was a bothy and was pleased to find it was, albeit a bit run down and home to a rather annoyed crow.
Then it was up the climb and over into Glenfiddich. I was down to shorts and T shirt now as it was properly roasting. The descent is fast and with the tailwind was easy. I stopped at the spookily empty Glenfiddich lodge and contemplated a nosy inside but a truck turned up so I just took a photo instead:
Very weird - there is still furniture inside and its all just been left. the landowner isn't interested in selling it so is just leaving it to fall into ruin...
After the lodge I ground up another big climb which gave stunning views all round and lead to a nice descent on a rough, vague farm track, something that seems to be increasingly rare with all the wind farm developments everywhere.
Thereafter it was a brief road ride to Aberlour and the Speyside way to my pals place for beer, food and chat. I did actually bivvy on their floor but I'll not try to claim it!
The next day started fairly calm so I got away at 10 with a vague plan to head for Aviemore then down the Gaick back to Blair Atholl. I'd considered including Ben alder in the proceedings but this would have meant another night out and I really needed to be back home that evening. After Bridge of Avon I picked up the CL loop but didn't meet any group start riders until the river before the egg path. A couple of guys were crossing the other way having bivvied that night in Rothiemurchus. Good progress guys! I missed out Ryvoan as I needed supplies and the paths around Glenmore would be crowded as would the cafe. So I followed the CL route backwards to Aviemore had chips from the happy haggis, grabbed scran at the garage and got going with a notion that I'd get back to the car by 6 or so.
The wind had other ideas. I'd noted that it had strengthened as the morning progressed. Turning south west down the spey valley confirmed my worst fears - it was right in my face. What roadies call a 'block headwind' which is rich considering that an aero road bike is barely affected by headwinds, at least compared to a large 29+ with bags on it!
I diverted off the road at Feshie Bridge to pick up the CL outward route which gave some respite in the woods but when I started the long climb up Glen Tromie I knew it was going to be a slow one.
Headwind Karma - I've been pretty lucky of late with no major headwind issues for a number of years and lots of trips (including both Highland Trails I've done) whereby some random wind changes have served me well. So I guess this was payback and given the stunning weather I couldn't really complain. It was just a case of get your head down and dig in. To the head of the pass took a long, long time and any thought of getting back to the car by 6 went out the window.
I'm fairly relaxed about such things these days whereas once upon a time this relentless blast in my face would have had me cursing and swearing. The wind cares not a jot for such outpourings and you are better saving your energy for pedalling.
I got a shock when I came upon the river flowing out of Loch an Duin - it was in full flow and well over a foot deep. I've never seen this river as deep as this, even in pretty wet weather. Having narrowly escaped a dunking in the Alt Garbh Gaig (fat tyres are ace for river crossings) I wasn't taking any chances so took shoes and socks off and paddled across.
Escaping the Gaik
A final feed to fuel all this hard pedalling was had in the sun whilst my feet dried; then it was off along the single track. Being in the lee of the slope I finally got a break from the wind and after the usual faff to get from the single track to the track by the lodge, bombed down the glen to the road. Fortunately the road / cycleway to Blair Atholl runs almost due west at this point so I finished with an easy pedal and a strong tailwind, getting back to the car at 7 less than an hour after my estimate which wasn't bad considering the wind. Total distance 280k with around 4000m of climbing.
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