I'd told my self I would do two extra bivvies this summer to make up for my two back garden bivvies during the Spring. As this weekend approached, it was clear we were going to be in for some stunning weather. At this time of year such weather is a real bonus given the onset of Autumn so I hatched a plan (of sorts) to cash in on it, bag my second doubler and keep my bivvy tally in order. I've not been to Ben Alder at all this year and being one of my favourite riding areas, this seemed like the obvious choice. I nearly regretted this idea on the slow run up a very busy A9 but on leaving the car just before 2 and pedaling up by Loch Ericht, the car journey was forgotten and the real journey began.
Over to Loch Pattack I passed three people on bikes who appeared to be struggling with a puncture. I enquired if they had all the necessary and they claimed they did but as I was sitting on the loch shore having a protracted and late lunch, only two of them passed so I guessed the one with the problem had decided to return to Dalwhinnie. Oh well, nothing much I could do now for them, and instead spent nigh on an hour sat looking at the view.
I passed by the double loch of Loch An Earba and noted no other tents - surprising given the weather and this usually popular spot. Maybe it was too early.... As it happened I was aiming for a spot I'd scoped out on a circuit I did in April 2019. I'd made the (pathless) link from the Alt Cam behind Culra bothy to the Allt Cam that flows down to Loch Lagan - same name but two different water courses, one of which heads to the East coast by way of the Spey, and the other which empties into the West coast by way of the river Spean and Lochy. As I'd emerged on the end of the double track which links to the track from Loch an Earba I noted an old ruin (marked as Lubvan on the OS) which looked a perfect pitch.
And it is. The cottage is made from dressed stone suggesting it was more than just a farmers cottage cleared during the 1700's but it looks like its not been used for a long time for all that. The boundary walls of its garden / small holding are clearly visible and this land is slightly raised above the surrounding moss making for a level, well drained and grassy camp spot. There was little evidence of anyone else having used it much - just one very old fire site and (for a nice change) no litter. It was only 5pm - decadently early for me - but I was in no rush to be anywhere and for a change fancied spending some time at such a great spot instead of my more usual habit of arrive - pitch up - sleep - pack up - depart. There was just enough of a breeze to keep the midges at bay so I sat for a while drinking tea, went for a wander by the river then walked back upstream on the path I'd come out on last year' just to stretch my legs and see the views. At seven I made and ate food accompanied by the two cans of beer I'd brought up with me. Finally I had to retreat inside the tent as the breeze had all but dropped and a few midges were about.
After a fine sunset (not too dramatic as there isn't enough pollution up here for really colourful sunsets) I read for a bit to the accompaniment of some fine whisky and more food. After my restless night of the previous weekend I went out like a light and had a solid nine hours sleep.
I made and ate breakfast from within the tent as there was not a breath of wind. That said there only seemed to be a few midges about, probably due to it having been quite chilly overnight. Even when I emerged they didn't bother me too much - a far cry from my camp back in August! What to do. It was obviously going to be another blazer of a day and I really should cash in on it. I'd thought of heading back into the Ben Alder hills and just wandering round a few trails and sun-bathing but instead I figured on a longer route to catch some views. Good Choice.
I was following my tour of May 2018 and October '16 (as described in my Ben Alder Bike Rides post) which in total is 78 miles. I figured on about 60 to do today then. Much more than I'd expected but it would be mostly easy going so I figured I'd be fine. So in summary - Down to Loch Lagan, turn back into the wilderness and up Strath Ossian to the loch. Over the Old Road to Isles to Loch Rannoch then follow the Highland Trail route over Bealachs Cumhann and Dubh to Culra, back out to Dalwhinnie. I was in no rush and so set a steady pace with a determination to stop frequently to take in the views.
On the start of the track through Lagan forest up from Torgulbin Farm, forever known to me as Collarbone Corner as this was the spot I slid off on a bike ride in 2013 resulting in a three piece clavical...
Looking back to Loch An Earba (in the gap between the conical hill and the wider ridge). My bivvy spot is hidden by a fold in the land just down from this gap. I got passed by a young lady on an e-bike here. I think she works at the Corrour Station cafe (she was vaguely familiar) as she had the code to the barrier where the track leaves the forest. She quickly outpaced me.... Then I met another couple also on e-bikes out for a day ride and then another couple on obvious hire bikes pausing at the top of the climb. Normally I meet precisely no-one in these places!
Ben Nevis (table top peak left of centre) and surrounding munroes from the Old Road to Isles. I've never seen it so clear. I'd brought a spotting scope with me and through it I could clearly see the Bens large summit cairn and figures upon it.
At Corrour Old lodge I wandered up to my bivvy spot of June 2018 and sat in the sun looking at the vast view around me. It was crystal clear - I could see the pointed peaks of Ben Cruachan, some 50km south west of my spot. As I sat, no fewer than five people on bikes went passed, all sporting bikepacking kit. This route is part of the Great North Trail, the GB divide, the An Turas Mor route (Glasgow to Cape Wrath) and the 'Badger' divide Inverness to Glasgow route so quite popular these days. None of them stopped for the views.....
Final look back North. The tiny white dot, just below the distant hills is Corrour station!
Eventually I gathered my stuff and descended down to the road above Loch Rannoch, the first for some 45 miles after leaving Dalwhinnie the previous day. I was only on it for five miles before starting the long, long climb up to Loch Ericht and a return to Ben Alder.
At the estate boat house on the south shore of the loch I was greeted by the site of an elderly lady finishing off her poo with a view (of the track and anyone on it). Nice. Her cleaning up routine seemed somewhat perfunctory and I came very close to stopping and pointing this out. I've no doubt that any estate workers who arrived the next day and saw her mess would likely blame it on youths and ner'do'wells rather than a respectable and elderly citizen. Most annoying. Anyway, I'd hoped to sit on the porch of this building for a bit but instead carried on and then on a whim rode down to the beach of Loch Ericht.
More views and a final feed before the last big climb. A word of warning. The sandy and gravelly 'beach' is deceptive. Just underneath the sand is a very deep layer of peat. As I rode towards the shore my tyres started to sink in so I beat a hasty retreat and sat further back to check out the views (again!) In effect its like quick sand as the peat is permanently saturated thanks to the pressure of the water in the loch and so could easily swallow you whole....
The boggy bit was fairly boggy, thanks to the damp summer but the fat bike allowed me to ride it all until the last bit before the bridge (this requires a fairly loose interpretation of the path line and plenty of tussock hopping). I'd told myself I wouldn't stop by the bothy but as its such a nice spot I did anyway and ended up making a cuppa to have with my final kit-kat. The bothy was empty and supposedly closed in the current 'situation' however I'd bet any money you like it had been occupied the previous evening. One day I will return to stay here.
Its a long old climb but probably my favourite, thanks to the ace trail, it being generally fairly steady and in such a great setting. It was showing 23 degrees on the garmin and I felt it. Fortunately the trail is crossed by several small burns (and one big one) so cold water was in abundance. Over the Cumhann I couldn't resist stopping to take in the view down to Loch Ossian, the hills of Steall in the background. Eventually I carried on (and got up the whole climb!) stopping once more at the summit.
Then a particularly fine ride down the descent, noting that its getting a bit loose in places. I feel responsible having suggested Alan Goldsmith include it in the Highland Trail route! Anyway that was that. I rolled out past the bothy (lots of tents and bikes scattered all over the place) and cruised out by Loch Ericht. A gathering haze indicated that this fine period of weather was drawing to a close so I felt well chuffed I'd cashed in on it. Given that the pandemic is going off again I suspect this could be the last long range ride this year so I was doubly glad to have made it out.
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