Deeside Holiday reprised

I've just been up to Deeside for a few days starting with a 'tour' of the upper 2/3rds of the Deeside Trail. As usual the weather in the week before my holiday was glorious however the forecast was for cool temps, cloud and varying amounts of rain.... My plans had been fluid as usual but Friday looked like it was to be sunny, Saturday dry at first with rain later and thereafter possibly dry. So I figured on a couple of days bikepacking followed by some walking and maybe a day ride or two. I even went as far as booking a campsite for a couple of nights finishing with a night in Ballater at the Alexandra Hotel. So I hoofed it up to Braemar Friday morning on quiet roads ahead of the bank holiday rush with a car load of various stuff to hopefully enable a range of outdoor activities and accommodation... 

As promised the sun was shining so after loading up the bike and having a Co-op breakfast I headed out on the Deeside Trail. As previously reported this is a fine route round the periphery of the Dee valley starting in Banchory. The upper section is the wildest and features a few of my favourite trails hereabouts. I planned on following it for as far as I could be bothered, bivvy somewhere then head back to Braemar by a suitable route, depending on the rain tomorrow. The sun was hot up the days first (of many) nadgery singletrack out of the town. This persisted past Mar Lodge and up Glen Lui.

Mar Lodge seems to have been done up since I last passed through here. I'm not actually sure what the NTS do with it as you can't get in as far as I can tell....

Singletrack number two is a lovely trail through a narrow defile - The Clais Fearnaig. After a short but steepish climb it levels out and is nadge central - proper trials riding! The Jones was in its element with the rider not far behind.... 

When last I rode this the descent was fab but I'd notice a load of aggregate bags by the trail side hinting at work to be done. This seemed odd as the trail was narrow, stony and obviously saw little use. It's now been worked on in the usual NTS style i.e. lots of water bars and channels but I expect it will soon erode back to it's natural state like the trail up Glen Derry.

Heading up the Quoich water the cloud was starting to build, somewhat at odds with the sunny day predicted. The Cairngorm massif was in view with a fair bit of snow still evident. My desire to ride the Lairig Ghru is still present and had been an option for this weekend but I want to do it in good weather so sticking to the periphery of these cloud holding hills seemed a better bet. The trail out of the Quoich water is lovely threading its way through Scots pine woodland. A fair few trees had been clobbered by Storm Arwen but the trail was largely clear. Emerging out of the woods revealed more cloud and rain making the surrounding hills looked somewhat foreboding. I'd also idly considered Ben Avon in the proceedings but was happy to pass it by. 

Now my next mission was to find the secret howff - that infamous stone and tin shelter that still seems to be a secret, a miracle in these days of the internet. I'd figured out where it was from aerial photo research (and some guess work) and given the incoming rain I figured it would make a fine stop for lunch. 

So much for my research. I wasted half an hour looking for it finally realising I'd failed yet again and my confident location marker on the GPS was a bum steer. (Edit - since getting back I've had a further look and realised I was on the wrong side of the valley. Quite how I managed this is a worry, hinting at further depredations of age...) So I went back a ways and made do with the 'clach' at the top of the pass for a lunch stop. 

Heading up the trail saw the first spots of rain, typical given I was about to climb up over a short moor crossing to Glen Gairn. It was coming and going so no big deal and I cracked on eagerly anticipating my favourite trail hereabouts. The single track descent down the Gairn is a classic rocky trail presenting some great challenges with nice riding between. It's showing signs of a lot more use than it did when I first rode it in 2013 but it's none the worse for it, being more rock than bog! The cold drizzle was coming and going with an odd flurry of hail but I ignored it and got stuck in.

Looking back up the glen. The burns flowing off Ben Avon were a bit high, being fed by melting snow still, but I crossed without issue. The final crossing of the Gairn was a different story. The footbridge is long gone and the crossing point a bit deep looking. I could have stepped across on rocks just up stream but as usual I figured I could ride the ford and plunged in. Literally as the front wheel pinged off a large rock and in went a foot. I managed to get back going but now with one damp sock. Not too bad as my new boots had kept most of the water out and the sky was clearing again so it would soon dry out.

On the leisurely cruise down the lower half of the glen I realised I'd not seen a soul since leaving Glen Lui. I can't imagine this area will ever get 'busy' given it's remote-ness. In fact I'd say its mainly bikes using the area these days as it figures on a few routes. Stomping along a big track on shanks pony isn't a lot of fun (see below) so it makes sense really. As if by magic an older couple appeared on the inevitable E bikes, obviously out for a day ride. This is something of a recent phenomena as you are seeing these type of people in many places that would have been to far to get to on foot or a normal bike. It occurred to me that this is exactly the kind of people you want in these places as it diverts opinion away from the idea that mountainbikers are all young people out to rip up the trails. Many would happily see such types coralled in trail centres but its going to be hard to try to exclude respectable middle aged people!

The DT follows a nice trail and back road which misses most of the A939 down to Ballater. I sat on the village green eating a large amount of Co-op food whilst contemplating my options. It was still pretty cloudy so the big moor crossing out of Tarland seemed a bit much. I figured I'd follow the route to there at least as it is different to what I did in '17. Thereafter there were plenty of options to cut across to the other side of the glen and pick up the outward route. This plan went quickly awry in the woods of Cambus of May. Its part Forestry and Land Scotland (nee FCS) and partly Nature Scot (nee SNH.) Storm Arwen had clearly done its damage as there were trees down everywhere. I'd seen much other evidence of this already so it was most annoying that neither FLS or NS have managed to clear the trails some five months after this storm passed through. I spent some considerable time picking my way round fallen trees. Where the route leaves the track into singletrack it was worse and I realised this would likely lead to a death march so kept on the track seeing as it made a beeline for the road. More fallen trees nearly scuppered this plan but I got out eventually only to see a sign (in the other direction) indicating the track was closed, but without any indication of a diversion. Pretty rubbish really as Nature Scot (this was their bit) should be resourced enough to get this all cleared 5 months after the storm hit - I may write a polite but firm letter....

Anyway a bit of road riding and one track got me back on route in time for the Tarland Trail centre which is a hoot. Maybe not the best thing to do when loaded up (I know from experience that trying to do jumps with bags on is a really bad idea.) But I 'sent' the Jones down a few humps and bumps with only a few bangs of protest from the bike (and me) to the village. Now it occurred to me that what I really wanted was a pint, rather than a big hill climb. One pub in the village center looked OK but round the corner was a more homely place with nobody in. Hoorah - that'll be a pint please whilst I check out the weather forecast. Good news - it was to be dry all evening and the rain tomorrow looked like it wouldn't get down here until the afternoon. So plan B was engaged - head down to Aboyne, across the Dee and into Glen Tanar woods for a bivvy. Tomorrow I'd follow the DT back to Braemar, hopefully getting back before the rain came on too hard.

What do you do if you see a good pub when on holiday? Go in of course. The Boat inn is a good place with plenty ales on at a price. I sat outside and chatted to a local guy who had an extremely strong North East accent (not helped by him being absolutely wrecked) requiring some concentration to figure out. Fortunately I'm good at strong North Eastern (English) accents so I could follow most of what he was telling me. He was full of tales of drunken pub crawls by bike when he was a youth but was bemoaning the fact that most of the pubs he'd used were now shut. Alarmingly he stated he had an e-bike which only got used to take him to the local. Interestingly he said he'd just retired from a local sawmill in which he'd worked all his life. It occurred to me that his generation could do that hereabouts - get a good local job near your home, work all your days earning enough to live modestly but comfortably and retire on the state pension. I suspect that such a life is no longer possible in the modern world although recent events suggest that using a local based supply chain would solve an awful lot of the problems we are facing. I doubt if any politico is capable of making that leap of faith however....

Finally (and slightly pished) I pedaled off into the gloaming heading for a bivvy spot I'd used in 2011, deep in the woods of Glen Tanar. There is nothing like a long steady climb at the end of a long day (on singlespeed.) In the event I found a much better spot just before I reached my target - a level and grassy area by the burn - perfect. Up went the tarp, kettle on, cook and eat food, drink whisky. A fine end to a day of excellent riding and actually pretty good weather.

It was a dry night and I slept like a log as usual. I woke to the sun which was a pleasant surprise. My route would take around four or five hours so I was in no rush. After a very leisurely start I carried on up the trail only to encounter a barrier across the track and a sign telling me I couldn't go any further as a male Capercaillie was in residence. Funnily enough this same thing happened when I was here in 2011. I did what I did then - carried on. The sign suggested that any passer by would lead said bird to attack them, wasting energy. What? Capers do famously go for people leading to many instances of tourists in Speyside getting selfies with these famously ugly birds (think a turkey) in full flow. But the Firmounth is a ROW and Core path so whoever had put this barrier up was well out of order. Plus no diversion, no nothing. As with 2011 I asked a rhetorical question to the person who'd put the sign up - now what do I do? go back, go round? I wondered what would happen if you'd come over the Firmounth from Glen Esk - you'd see the closure and go back over this large and bleak moor right? Err no. Further up the track I paused to check my nav and was aware of a 'clacking' sound from a tree nearby. I grinned to myself as I knew exactly what this was. Sure enough.....

One of the worlds ugliest birds, give me a buzzard any day. It fluttered down to the track in front of me and was clearly after a rammy, so I snapped this shot and cleared off. I don't really see the problem with this, making the closure even stupider. In fact it would likely just attract more people whereas the best solution - do nothing - would mean that most people would pass through oblivious. Or they could put up some useful info like a sign saying to keep moving if the bird was encountered as all it wants is to be left alone. At least by humans that is, all it actually wants is a female caper but these seemed absent which means it's not looking good for this chap, whatever the views of the local conservationists are.

The halfway hut was looking even more dilapidated. Most of these informal bothies seem to attract some local maintenance but this one looks like its days are numbered which is a shame. This and the 'closed' path smack of an anti access vibe which does seem to be permeating certain areas in the last couple of years. Leaving Glen Tanar on the big climb over to the Dee it was clear that rain was incoming. I cracked on in a bid to beat it and had more singletrack fun down by the Dee to Ballater once more. The wind was also on the rise on the long run up Glen Muik and inevitably the first spots of rain came on, on the monster climb past Lochnagar.

This was a solid push but I hammered the descent to keep warm in the now cold drizzle. Finally it was the nice track through QE2's back garden then the road back to Braemar. I was happy as it had been mostly dry overhead and the trails were really dry. 160k done in total and some fab riding.

Singlespeed is definitely hard work round here as a lot of the climbs are steady but long. It's just a case of making yourself get off and walk!

The rain came and went I as drove down to my chosen campsite - Feughside just out of the Dee valley near Banchory. Pitching a tent in the rain is never a good thing but it was up quick enough and after the confines of the Deschutes, luxury.

Sunday dawned somewhat damp and misty but there were hints of it clearing so I got my gear together for a long walk. I've biked over Mount Battock and the eastern Mounth a couple of times now and I fancied a wander to explore these rolling bumps. After a bit of parking faffing (the downside of hill walking) a climbed out of the woods to a locally popular bump - Clachnaben. 

'Clach' is an old Scots word for a large rock formation, much like Torr in Devon and they are similar things that are scattered across the eastern end of the Cairngorms. The most famous ones are the huge clachs on the high plateau of Ben Avon. These were in the cloud today as was the top of Mount Battock, my destination. The track along the ridge had recently been done up by the looks leading me to think I'd have been better off with the bike. It made for easy walking but it's rather hard on the feet. That said, the landscape is covered in vast peat hags so without the track it would have been a mission. I took shelter from the cold wind in a shooting hut for lunch then finished the climb in scudding cloud. So much for the view....

After some route rumination (my plan to traverse further hills back to the car looked a dubious prospect given the preponderance of peat hags) I dropped off the hill on a vague path heading for a route back to Glen Dye. Some nav faffing and a fair bit of heather bashing got me to yet another big track. Oh well, I'd little choice but to march on. At least the sun was now shining - once again I'd summited an hour early - so I tramped down the glen, stopped for a snack at Charr bothy (which has been re-decorated since my last visit,) abandoned a plan to climb back over to the days first hill as a 'short cut' and finished my tramp round to the road and the car. I was a bit shocked to find I'd actually done 20 miles, my longest walk for some considerable time. Other than being a bit footsore I was in remarkably good shape. Maybe I will do the West Highland Way!

Luxury digs and sunshine to boot

Tea was cooked and eaten in the sun but Monday dawned to more mist. Ballater was my destination but on a whim I parked up at Aboyne figuring on doing a bit of a classic circuit on the Firmounth and Fungle Road, both routes I'd done loaded previously so it would be nice to do on a bare bike as the Fungle road featured a couple of ace single track descents. Of course this would take me back through yon Capercaillies domain. On the climb I passed two couples walking and another on bikes. I wonder if they would follow the notice or, more likely proceed with cameras at the ready!

Sure enough, there he was perched at the side of the track. I waved a greeting and carried on up the climb, out of the woods and over what is a large moor. I'd vaguely recalled it went on for some time - a classic traverse where the steep climb is dispensed with only for another hill to present itself, then another and another. More trackwork has been done since my last visit although one natural (and rather boggy) section remains. 

Looking into Glen Esk with my local hills just visible in the distance. I noted that Mount Battock was cloud free and there were even hints of Lochnagar and Ben Avon in the distance. After a short descent you turn back on yourself on the Fungle road.

I pondered the origins of its name but even Neil Ramsey's book on the Mounth roads states that no one really knows. Likely it's a derivation of an old Scotts word or name for a hill that has evolved over the years into a word that bears no resemblance to its origin. 

The first part of the descent is on a well made path that seems to have stood the test of time as it was new in 2011 when I first passed through. The path along the glen bottom has been widened to more smooth doubletrack but the route at the head of the Birse is a still a vague line round some woods. I sat in here eating food and planned another bikepacking foray through these hills. They are a good choice as the trails are generally good going and there is some nice single track. The challenge is many big hills to climb but there is nothing too horrible for anyone with a bit of leg, or a low gear (or singlespeed and good walking boots). I've found adopting a mix of pushing and riding as the terrain and your energy levels vary, is the secret to making progress. Speaking of which I pushed up the steep climb out of the Birse and joined the DT for the last time. This takes you down a section of narrow, rutted and rooty singletrack to the 'Guard' - a house on it's own in the woods. At the top of this I chatted to a group of lads on ebikes whose attention had been drawn to the Jones' odd lines. Locals by the sounds and we exchanged much chat about the good bike riding to be had in this area. I even thought to myself that this would make a fine place to retire to. Not sure what house prices are like mind....

I was hailed by a couple of blokes walking down the trail just before the Guard. It was Colin Calder and his mate, recognising me from the Cairngorms Loop group start in September 2020. He'd been singlespeed too and we'd both exchanged gear ratio notes and tales of the horror of the wind on the last 70k. Quite how you meet someone only met once before, and recognises you, is one of those things that never cease to amaze. Of course the Jones at least is instantly recognisable, even if I'm not!

Ironically on the final track descent, there was quite a bit of water from the rain on Sunday and this got liberally sprayed all over me and the bike, despite it having remained remarkably clean to this point, thanks to the dry trails. Only 40k but a fine route and no rain!

My short holiday finished with a night of luxury in the Alexandra hotel in Ballater. I'd discovered this place on my post HT17 camping holiday as it had Tradewinds on hand pump and seemed a nice spot for a few pints. I'd been meaning to stay since but never got round to it. Pretty reasonable too at £50 B&B, not much more than the nearby Hostel, which I've stayed in a few times but these days I'm done with dorms!

So a good trip all in all. I'm definitely going to do the full Deeside Trail at some point, having failed to do it so far, despite several other times where I'd told people I wanted to do it. I'm also going to reprise my Mounth Roads tour of 2011/16 at some point but this time a) do the whole lot and b) avoid campsites and bothies!