Centuries and double centuries

Riding a hundred miles on a bike in a day still has something of a mystique amongst (road) cyclists. For a bikepacker, the off-road century is a must-do thing, and much harder. Doing five and a half in a row even more so! Despite various escapades in Scotland and Wales on various ITT's, many over a 100 miles, a road / gravel century is still something I like to do, always starting from the house using one of five circuits I've figured out over the years. All are largely on back roads, cycleways and the odd easy trail. The appeal is the amount of ground you can cover and the changing landscapes as you progress round the route. 

So far this year I've done three of them (one twice) as well as a bonus century riding south the other week. Non cyclists still seem to regard this as a huge distance to cycle but compared to the BB300, it's a straightforward undertaking. I'm at the point where I can just gather my gear together, jump on the bike and knock one out with little thought, using whatever of my routes the wind favours. It's all in the pacing, something I've got off to a fine art. And eating of course!

A few years ago I upped the ante and did a double century on a fab route up to and round Loch Rannoch then back again. I'd thought to repeat the route this year at some point and midsummer seemed the perfect opportunity. At one point I was going to do the 'run to the sun' ride from Carlisle to Edinburgh. But logistics to get there were a hassle and riding down would involve a lot of rainy headwinds. My usual midsummer overnighter also got canned due to the aforementioned rain - I've been rained on enough this year! So a day ride it was. A variation taking in the roads and hills east of the Tay valley was considered but this would lead me back though Perth. The nice thing with the route I did in '21 was that the last fifty-odd miles were all on quiet back roads, well off tourist routes and largely traffic free. This would be my route. 

So off we go. As I had breakfast the sun was already shining so I even slathered on sun tan cream in the face of a very sunny forecast. The wind was of mild concern as it was from the west which might throw a few headwinds at me at inconvenient points. But the route has a few bail out options so I figured to get going and see what happened.

A promising start - the Trossach hills in all their sunny glory. However the forecasted 'breeze' was a stiff wind. The route west is fairly sheltered though so it was of little issue at this stage.

At Callander the sun beat down and I stripped off arm warmers and gillet. Twenty odd miles of NCN 7 followed and I was a shade concerned about the amount of cloud around when I hit my first stopping point at the Killin Co-op. The next thing I new a fine dreich blew in and the sky darkened. Of course I'd not got a proper waterproof with me, on the strength of (two) weather forecasts.... It blew through quickly enough and as I left (Arm warmers and gillet back on) I ignored bail out number one (south Loch Tay road - 145 miles) and cracked on into a stiff breeze up Glen Lochay. The pubil climb took me away from a lot more murk looking west and a few more sprinkles came in but I was hopeful it would brighten up away from the westernmost point of the route.  

23 tailwind and gravity assisted miles down Glen Lyon revived me somewhat. I was not really feeling weary, just aware of the efforts I was putting in to that point, thanks to the wind. The sun re-appeared and thoughts of bail out number 2 (straight down to Ballinluig on NCN 7 - 165 miles) evaporated.

Even the climb out of Strath Tay didn't put me off as I hoofed up it in fine style, noting this was where I'd had a big energy dip the last time. The bright skies persisted on the Schiehallion road, this pointy peak cloud free. Better yet the feared headwind on this road wasn't, thanks to the vagaries of the terrain. I passed halfway here and noted with concern I was a half hour later than when I'd done the route in 2021, despite leaving the house 25 minutes earlier. I had 3 hours extra daylight however!

At this point you pass within half a mile of the return from the circuit of Loch Rannoch. Missing this would be the last bail out - 175 miles. But looking west revealed a generally brighter prospect than earlier, so on we go, commitment made.

Being fairly conical, Schiehallion was used by Nevil Maskelyne to estimate the weight of the earth in 1774. A few goes had been made at this but as Schiehallion is isolated from other hills the gravitational effect of it would not be skewed by other large lumps. To this point things were going well - the headwind heading west up the south road had largely been blocked by the woods. Plus I saw precisely no-one other than a couple of cars and camper vans. On the north road I commenced another lengthy tail wind leg - 31 miles this time - passing 200k on the way. As I'd turned the corner at the top end of the Loch I felt a certain liberation - all I had to do was ride home by whatever means...

The roadside laybys were full up - more campers than I'd seen when I was last here. It seemed a little more restrained than the anarchy that had developed here in the '90's but I dread to think of the mess being left behind. A few cars were around as people raced for the last spots, which I hoped to leave behind on the fine Loch Tummel road. This too was rammed with campers, every designated car park full and a few others wedged with cars and vans. I did note one had a parking ticket though!

On the final climb of this undulating road I diligently blocked a following camper van. As I crested the rise I glanced back at the drivers frown and disappeared down a fine, twisty descent, outpacing it by a mile. The effort required to do this caused a few grumbles from my legs but I'd successfully moderated my usual mid afternoon low spot by constant snacking. Contact points were OK and a minor twinge from my left knee had receded.

So Pitlochry at last noting I was still around 45 minutes later than my previous ride, so much for the tailwind speeding me up a bit! One final feed and a few things stashed for the final fifty-odd miles. Better still, the sun was still showing it's face and the sheltered route kept the wind off me. This had been of concern earlier as the last 40 miles would be into it. In the event, a combination of high hedges and various twists and turns meant it was of little impediment.

Contemplating the last climb out of Dunning was far worse than doing it. I'd fully recovered from my earlier efforts by now and got up it with only token protest from my 195 mile legs, the light fading and cloud gathering. But whilst there was rain around, I avoided it and finally, at 10.20pm, arrived home.

So the hour I'd lost in the first half of the ride was maintained to the end. I suspect the stiff westerly wind was largely to blame, although my digestive system played a part, needing to visit every loo I passed. That said overall stopped time was an hour and a half which is not much more than the last time. Despite having done such horrors as the BB300, I still felt a large sense of achievement as I cracked a beer and ate food before ten hours of sleep. The large amount of pedaling (as opposed to pedaling and walking) didn't throw up any major aches or pains. The aero bars were a boon and largely why my wrists, shoulders and hands are pain free as I type this. If I do this again, I'll be a bit more selective wind wise. After the last time I speculated about doing a 250 which  may still do at some point, albeit with a snooze somewhere!

KY12 to DL5 (and June BAM)

I was wanting to visit my folks at the start of a 2 week holiday so figured a bike ride down there was the thing to do. In a way it's unfinished business as in 1991, I tried to ride down there from Edinburgh in a oner and failed, largely thanks to a horrible cold but also due to taking the A68/697 which isn't the best way of doing the journey. That said, in 1992 on that years 'Watt Wheelers' midsummer ride, we did end up at Darlington (via Kielder) so I kind of did it back then...

In recent years I've played around with a few route options, west-ish and east-ish, so decided to take an option on both - down through the Borders and then back via Northumberland. As per, the weather forecast was somewhat variable but stiff north westerleys would largely favour me so off we go. I had thought of using the GB duro route for the first bit as I can get to it in 10k from home. But this was a bit out the way and would involve a couple of large dirt road passes, plus the weather suggested east would be dryer than west. So instead I crossed the bridge and headed through Edinburgh via various cycleways, quiet and busy streets. A very weird thing happens sometime after you cross the bridge - people ignore you. So in Fife, or elsewhere, when you pass another cyclist, you both exchange waves, Hi's, salutes or nods. Not in Edinburgh - everyone ignores you. This also applies to peds - on a Fife cycleway, you ting your bell, make sure they are aware of you, ride passed and say cheers, hi, or thanks. In Embra, just blaze past them. If you say 'Cheers' or 'thanks' they give you a funny look (or ignore you as they have headphones in.) I hate this place. A billion teenagers here to see some second rate fake popstar were also successfully avoided....

Anyway, after grinding my way up Lasswade Road I picked up a mighty fine cycleway which was curiously empty. I jumped off it at Loanhead for food sat in the sun and then rejoined it, recalling this was yet another of the many routes I built when I worked for Sustrans, over the Bilston Glen viaduct. It was all in fine condition and carried me onwards to Rosslyn, made famous after that utterly crap book about the holy grail...

Beyond here I linked onto a series of backroads to the hills. This was the route the WW (i.e. the Uni cycling club) used to get to the Borders. I've since been on it a few times on the motorbike but this is the first time cycling for many, many years. The complete lack of traffic was a welcome relief after all that city riding. Then off up the first of the routes proper climbs over the Moorfoots.

Looking back across Midlothian to Embra - quite a nice route all in all. This is on the B709 - a fabulous B road which goes all the way to Langholm. And this was my goal - to ride it in it's entirety, something I'd not actually ever done before. It's a cracker as most of it is largely empty of traffic, and the scenery is very pleasant.

Food was bought and eaten at Innerleithen, which now seems to be jam packed with full bounce e-bikes, the riders of which all seemed to scowl at me. I think they are trying too hard... South of Innerleithen is probably the nicest bit, over another largeish climb, then down through forestry and farm land to Tuishielaw. I stopped in the pub for a pint as I was way ahead of my predicted schedule and already thinking of alternative bivvy spots to a potential tin shed I'd spied on aerial photos. 

A leisurely trundle up the Ettrick water followed. I spied the shed I'd planned to use but the wind had done for it so just as well I wasn't relying on it! There are a couple more nearby as well as Dryfhead and Greensykes bothies, but after a few sprinkles and plenty of big clouds around, the sky had cleared again so I figured a bivvy was the way to go. I'd fully prepared to be well rained on but as per my ride a few weeks ago, narrowly missed various rain clouds and only caught a couple of sprinkles.

I topped out eventually (an easy climb, many hereabouts just make height steadily over many miles) and contemplated what I'd done, and the views.

So off we go, down the Esk valley. Soon enough I came upon Samye Lings Tibetan Monastery. I first encountered this on a clear and crisp February day which seemed appropriate. Seeing such a thing in the warm evening sunshine (or the rain) doesn't. It's been here for many years and has become a Borders institution attracting many rich idiots who have stressed themselves out, and are now seeking enlightened karma. They just need to buy a bike...

Watch out Budda, there's a big snake gonna get ya!

Of course history students will know that Buddism is far from free of hideous violence in the quest for domination, much like all religions.

Soon after you pass the Eskdalemuir Schoolhouse cafe, a fabulous place. I'd checked this out on line as I'd originally figured I'd get Sunday breakfast here, however it was now 6.30pm on Saturday. I knew the cafe would be long shut but the website went on about having a drinks license until 12am... It was a vane hope so imagine my grin when I saw that it was open for a pizza and pasta night! Oh yes, 2 slices and a bottle of ale please!

Some time later, I pedaled off under more dark clouds and an odd spot of rain. I piled into the first bit of woods I encountered and turned the bivvy radar full on. A bit of nosing around found a well sheltered spot in the trees. Up with the tarp and in, 148k done. Relaxation followed but there was an odd midge about so I kept in the bivvy bag.

It rained most of the night but eased off as I nibbled some (cold) breakfast and contemplated my next moves.

An OK spot and the sun was shining on me as I left. More pleasant pedaling followed down the Esk to Langholm. This place was a major disappointment however as nothing was open. I'd hoped for a cafe at least but there was nowt, not even a Co-op which is very odd for such a place. The garage provided a coffee at least and fortunately I had plenty of snacks with me. 

Now I'd left myself an option to add another night into the proceedings taking me into the Yorkshire Dales. But the weather wasn't looking good unless I went east plus I was keen to get to Mum and Dad's that evening. So after (yet again) giving up on the OS app, I fired up OSM and noted various cycle routes which would help me to get to Alston, from where I'd be able to hop over the bump to Teesdale, thence home.

So off again, along more back roads, as used a few times on the Motorbike, with a couple of short cuts on some fab single trackers. My heart and stomach was set on a cafe at Greenhead I'd spied on just such a motorbike trip earlier this year. Some time later I arrived, only to find it was also shut on a Sunday!! Fortunately the village hall next door had a farmers market on with tea and coffee.

The wall. There was actually a bit of cycleway up by the road which is impressive. Soon after I left this to drop into Haltwhistle where (thank Hadrian) there was a fab little cafe on the High street. Fried food and tea followed then it was more NCN to Alston. This was (mostly) good but typical NCN - lots of good route but with odd crap bits that spoiled it somewhat.

This viaduct was a belter but someone had extended there garden over the old line beyond it so you had to scramble down some steps and up a steep hill to the main road. Along this for a bit then a steep descent back to 100 yards from the viaduct... Hey ho. Further frustrations came in the form of yet another random puncture - no thorn or glass or nails, just some unknown spike jabbing into the tyre and a spray of sealant. Despite a small hole it wouldn't seal so I had to ram a plug in, which enlarged the hole so the plug didn't, so I had to ram another one in, which didn't seal, etc etc.

More gravelling followed and a nice back road to Alston. The last time I'd been here on a bike was in 1991 at the end of an epic tour which involved many miles, running out of money and a horrible 100 mile ride east into a headwind to Carlisle YH. The next day I staggered along the A689 (no cycleway in those days) to Alston with no food. On realising I was spent, I put my last 10p into a phone box, phoned my Mum asking to rescue me (pips went before she replied) and collapsed in the town centre rotunda hoping she would come to get me (she did, bless her.) So today, I was in a much better state and grabbed a last snack from the Co-op before the final 40 miles.

This started with the fearsome climb over to Yad Moss, reminiscing over many ski escapades here in my youth. I got up it at a steady SS cadence, looking at blue sky to the east and much cloud to the west, justification for cutting the ride short.

Cross and Dun Fell, much hated by GB Duro riders.

Looking down Teesdale and contemplating nigh on 13 miles of tailwind assisted descent.

One last heave out of Teasdale and then another 10 mile descent to West Auckland and a short hop to Mum and Dad's from there, 167k done.

After a couple of days of hard labour at Mum and Dads, I came home, but in the face of another iffy forecast and the opportunity of a cheap train ticket home I took the easy option of a train from Darlo to Embra. It all went well but Azuma trains bike spaces are **** Just as well I've abandoned my plan to do the GB Duro this year as my Jones would not fit in this space.

Leaving Embra was a struggle. Millions of glaikit tourists, a total change to the road layout and fucking tramlines made it somewhat hazardous. In my youth this was sport but these days it's just to much risk for not enough gain. There are lots of fancy new cycleways but a few bits seemed to disappear, the signs were tiny (and one pointed the wrong way) and the route convoluted. Plus ca change. I fought my way out eventually and finally contemplated the fair kingdom of Fife with a huge sigh of relief.

Not TLS as the low temps demanded I threw in some extra layers, not really needed in the event, thanks to getting colossally lucky with the weather once more. As per, the Stragg ate it all for breakfast. I keep contemplating something more exotic but nothing else out there quite meets my exacting needs; and the stragg just keeps delivering. It may be a bit heavy but it's idiot proof, tough, and no-one will try to nick it.

One last snack in Inverkeithing in the sun then a leisure trundle up the final miles.

I'll do the Northumberland variant next time as it looks mighty fine but I now need to do some mountain biking!