I was wanting to visit my folks at the start of a 2 week holiday so figured a bike ride down there was the thing to do. In a way it's unfinished business as in 1991, I tried to ride down there from Edinburgh in a oner and failed, largely thanks to a horrible cold but also due to taking the A68/697 which isn't the best way of doing the journey. That said, in 1992 on that years 'Watt Wheelers' midsummer ride, we did end up at Darlington (via Kielder) so I kind of did it back then...
In recent years I've played around with a few route options, west-ish and east-ish, so decided to take an option on both - down through the Borders and then back via Northumberland. As per, the weather forecast was somewhat variable but stiff north westerleys would largely favour me so off we go. I had thought of using the GB duro route for the first bit as I can get to it in 10k from home. But this was a bit out the way and would involve a couple of large dirt road passes, plus the weather suggested east would be dryer than west. So instead I crossed the bridge and headed through Edinburgh via various cycleways, quiet and busy streets. A very weird thing happens sometime after you cross the bridge - people ignore you. So in Fife, or elsewhere, when you pass another cyclist, you both exchange waves, Hi's, salutes or nods. Not in Edinburgh - everyone ignores you. This also applies to peds - on a Fife cycleway, you ting your bell, make sure they are aware of you, ride passed and say cheers, hi, or thanks. In Embra, just blaze past them. If you say 'Cheers' or 'thanks' they give you a funny look (or ignore you as they have headphones in.) I hate this place. A billion teenagers here to see some second rate fake popstar were also successfully avoided....
Anyway, after grinding my way up Lasswade Road I picked up a mighty fine cycleway which was curiously empty. I jumped off it at Loanhead for food sat in the sun and then rejoined it, recalling this was yet another of the many routes I built when I worked for Sustrans, over the Bilston Glen viaduct. It was all in fine condition and carried me onwards to Rosslyn, made famous after that utterly crap book about the holy grail...
Beyond here I linked onto a series of backroads to the hills. This was the route the WW (i.e. the Uni cycling club) used to get to the Borders. I've since been on it a few times on the motorbike but this is the first time cycling for many, many years. The complete lack of traffic was a welcome relief after all that city riding. Then off up the first of the routes proper climbs over the Moorfoots.
Looking back across Midlothian to Embra - quite a nice route all in all. This is on the B709 - a fabulous B road which goes all the way to Langholm. And this was my goal - to ride it in it's entirety, something I'd not actually ever done before. It's a cracker as most of it is largely empty of traffic, and the scenery is very pleasant.
Food was bought and eaten at Innerleithen, which now seems to be jam packed with full bounce e-bikes, the riders of which all seemed to scowl at me. I think they are trying too hard... South of Innerleithen is probably the nicest bit, over another largeish climb, then down through forestry and farm land to Tuishielaw. I stopped in the pub for a pint as I was way ahead of my predicted schedule and already thinking of alternative bivvy spots to a potential tin shed I'd spied on aerial photos.
A leisurely trundle up the Ettrick water followed. I spied the shed I'd planned to use but the wind had done for it so just as well I wasn't relying on it! There are a couple more nearby as well as Dryfhead and Greensykes bothies, but after a few sprinkles and plenty of big clouds around, the sky had cleared again so I figured a bivvy was the way to go. I'd fully prepared to be well rained on but as per my ride a few weeks ago, narrowly missed various rain clouds and only caught a couple of sprinkles.
I topped out eventually (an easy climb, many hereabouts just make height steadily over many miles) and contemplated what I'd done, and the views.
So off we go, down the Esk valley. Soon enough I came upon Samye Lings Tibetan Monastery. I first encountered this on a clear and crisp February day which seemed appropriate. Seeing such a thing in the warm evening sunshine (or the rain) doesn't. It's been here for many years and has become a Borders institution attracting many rich idiots who have stressed themselves out, and are now seeking enlightened karma. They just need to buy a bike...
Of course history students will know that Buddism is far from free of hideous violence in the quest for domination, much like all religions.
Soon after you pass the Eskdalemuir Schoolhouse cafe, a fabulous place. I'd checked this out on line as I'd originally figured I'd get Sunday breakfast here, however it was now 6.30pm on Saturday. I knew the cafe would be long shut but the website went on about having a drinks license until 12am... It was a vane hope so imagine my grin when I saw that it was open for a pizza and pasta night! Oh yes, 2 slices and a bottle of ale please!
Some time later, I pedaled off under more dark clouds and an odd spot of rain. I piled into the first bit of woods I encountered and turned the bivvy radar full on. A bit of nosing around found a well sheltered spot in the trees. Up with the tarp and in, 148k done. Relaxation followed but there was an odd midge about so I kept in the bivvy bag.
It rained most of the night but eased off as I nibbled some (cold) breakfast and contemplated my next moves.
An OK spot and the sun was shining on me as I left. More pleasant pedaling followed down the Esk to Langholm. This place was a major disappointment however as nothing was open. I'd hoped for a cafe at least but there was nowt, not even a Co-op which is very odd for such a place. The garage provided a coffee at least and fortunately I had plenty of snacks with me.
Now I'd left myself an option to add another night into the proceedings taking me into the Yorkshire Dales. But the weather wasn't looking good unless I went east plus I was keen to get to Mum and Dad's that evening. So after (yet again) giving up on the OS app, I fired up OSM and noted various cycle routes which would help me to get to Alston, from where I'd be able to hop over the bump to Teesdale, thence home.
So off again, along more back roads, as used a few times on the Motorbike, with a couple of short cuts on some fab single trackers. My heart and stomach was set on a cafe at Greenhead I'd spied on just such a motorbike trip earlier this year. Some time later I arrived, only to find it was also shut on a Sunday!! Fortunately the village hall next door had a farmers market on with tea and coffee.
The wall. There was actually a bit of cycleway up by the road which is impressive. Soon after I left this to drop into Haltwhistle where (thank Hadrian) there was a fab little cafe on the High street. Fried food and tea followed then it was more NCN to Alston. This was (mostly) good but typical NCN - lots of good route but with odd crap bits that spoiled it somewhat.
This viaduct was a belter but someone had extended there garden over the old line beyond it so you had to scramble down some steps and up a steep hill to the main road. Along this for a bit then a steep descent back to 100 yards from the viaduct... Hey ho. Further frustrations came in the form of yet another random puncture - no thorn or glass or nails, just some unknown spike jabbing into the tyre and a spray of sealant. Despite a small hole it wouldn't seal so I had to ram a plug in, which enlarged the hole so the plug didn't, so I had to ram another one in, which didn't seal, etc etc.
More gravelling followed and a nice back road to Alston. The last time I'd been here on a bike was in 1991 at the end of an epic tour which involved many miles, running out of money and a horrible 100 mile ride east into a headwind to Carlisle YH. The next day I staggered along the A689 (no cycleway in those days) to Alston with no food. On realising I was spent, I put my last 10p into a phone box, phoned my Mum asking to rescue me (pips went before she replied) and collapsed in the town centre rotunda hoping she would come to get me (she did, bless her.) So today, I was in a much better state and grabbed a last snack from the Co-op before the final 40 miles.
This started with the fearsome climb over to Yad Moss, reminiscing over many ski escapades here in my youth. I got up it at a steady SS cadence, looking at blue sky to the east and much cloud to the west, justification for cutting the ride short.
Looking down Teesdale and contemplating nigh on 13 miles of tailwind assisted descent.
One last heave out of Teasdale and then another 10 mile descent to West Auckland and a short hop to Mum and Dad's from there, 167k done.
After a couple of days of hard labour at Mum and Dads, I came home, but in the face of another iffy forecast and the opportunity of a cheap train ticket home I took the easy option of a train from Darlo to Embra. It all went well but Azuma trains bike spaces are **** Just as well I've abandoned my plan to do the GB Duro this year as my Jones would not fit in this space.
Leaving Embra was a struggle. Millions of glaikit tourists, a total change to the road layout and fucking tramlines made it somewhat hazardous. In my youth this was sport but these days it's just to much risk for not enough gain. There are lots of fancy new cycleways but a few bits seemed to disappear, the signs were tiny (and one pointed the wrong way) and the route convoluted. Plus ca change. I fought my way out eventually and finally contemplated the fair kingdom of Fife with a huge sigh of relief.
Not TLS as the low temps demanded I threw in some extra layers, not really needed in the event, thanks to getting colossally lucky with the weather once more. As per, the Stragg ate it all for breakfast. I keep contemplating something more exotic but nothing else out there quite meets my exacting needs; and the stragg just keeps delivering. It may be a bit heavy but it's idiot proof, tough, and no-one will try to nick it.
One last snack in Inverkeithing in the sun then a leisure trundle up the final miles.
I'll do the Northumberland variant next time as it looks mighty fine but I now need to do some mountain biking!
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