I've been hoping to get up to the Cairngorms for a weekend all year. In fact all of last year too. This was on the back of my fab March 2022 weekend doing a variation on the classic Cairngorms tour. But the rubbish weather has kept me away - it's a feature of being so close to the area that I only want to ride there if it's sunny!
As noted in my last post, it was snowy and cold that weekend but finally, out of the blue came a sunny forecast for this weekend. And hot! 20 degrees plus! No more freezing your (whatever) off whilst cold rain sprays into your face!
I ruminated on various options starting in Blair Atholl, gateway to much good riding and the start of the Cairngorms Loop and Tour routes; and only an easy hours drive away. At first I was going to do the whole weekend adding in a loop round Ben Alder but then the weather started going on about torrential rain and thunderstorms on the Sunday, not something I wanted to experience in a mountain range. Also the Caledonia etape was on, on the Sunday, so the drive home would be slow. Therefore I figured on doing the basic Cairngorms tour, which at 200k and a mere 2500m climbing should be straightforward for a Friday evening, all day Saturday ride. And it was
After the usual bit of trail then 10 miles of road then cycleway I hit the dirt up the Gaik pass, the sun beating down and a stiff breeze shoving me along - bliss! After a hellish few months at work I was properly due this one
When you do the first ride of the year round here it's always slightly nerve wracking wondering what damage the winter storms have done. We've had some killers since last October so I was expecting carnage. Beside the river there was certainly a lot of debris, obviously deposited by flood water, but the track was clear and I was pleased to see the river was still going under the pipe bridge after it had been restored in 2020.
I got it horribly wrong on the first bit of single track. Despite much dry weather the bogs were still present. I figured one would be best ridden through straight as there should be a hard bottom, so to speak. There was until I was in the middle whereupon the front wheel disappeared up to the disk in quality glop. I tried to heave it out but it was firmly glued in place. Where to put my foot? Into a similar bog, up to calf depth. After flailing about a bit I managed to extricate me and bike and then set to cleaning gunge off boot, (waterproof) sock and leg. Fortunately, although the boot was damp inside the waterproof sock had done it's job and my tootsies were dry.
Salvaging the remains of my dignity I proceeded. After this the single track was largely dry and huge fun. I'd been moaning to myself about my lack of rock riding in recent months so this got me back into the swing. Then a steady ride down the glen on the improving track as the sun sank. I was up for riding until dark and originally I'd figured I'd stop in the Gaik itself, or one of the side glens. However I was making good progress so figured the woods out of Drumguish would do.
Sun setting oh so slowly, a month and a bit out of the equinox.
Turns out the woods wouldn't do as between the trees was dense heather, a tick haven. In the end I went for the spot I'd used in 2022 and had a horrible mozzie experience. I was largely confident they wouldn't be up and about yet as it had been -5 here the other week. The midge forecast hasn't even kicked off yet. I'd stopped a couple of times to test the air, so to speak, but whilst there were a few flying things about, nothing of the biting kind. My spot was next to a locked Bothy - Baileguish - on short grass in it's lea but still a bit breezy to offer further defense against any winged menaces. It was 10.10pm as I turned in. I nearly went bivvy bag only, but there was a fair bit of cloud about plus there would likely be a lot of dew as the temps dropped so up went the tarp and a pleasant evening followed.
Departure was at 7.30 am (hardcore compared to my usual casual BAM mornings) and off I went up through Inshriach and Rothiemurchus forests. Dry trails, heat and sun - heaven! Better yet, given the early hour there was hardly anyone about so I felt my pace creeping up to make best use of this rare combo.
Glen more cafe provided breakfast as I contemplated more fab trails - one of my favourite sections of the route over Ryvoan to Abernethy then lots of fun trails to Dorback, then the usual ups and downs to Tomintoul. Off I went, hammering the still quiet trails, and ignoring the distance I had to do. At one point I blasted past a group of guys doing the same route but over three days. They were all loaded up with lots of bags and rucksacks - TLS guys!
I had a bit of route faffing in Glen Brown, trying to overthink it. I also managed to get my other boot wet thanks to the slippy rocks on one of the several burn crossings. The heat was building on the climb up to Tomintoul so a cold drink was in order. Then more fried food to fuel me up the long strath of glen Avon. The wind was of concern as it had gotten quite breezy but it must have been more west than south as I made much better progress up the glen than last September when the headwind was a blaster. I was really getting into my stride on the Loch Builg singletrack, a fixed grin on my face as this was shaping up to be a fabulous ride. Up the Cullardoch climb was a bit arduous as the miles were starting to make there presence felt (and my enthusiastic pace.) But I had a good blast down the other side and decided to miss Braemar and the road riding out to head direct to Linn of Dee.
This was tremendously exciting - an adder! Better still, after the usual transition from smooth doubletrack to rough doubletrack to singletrack, I surprised another one (Male this time) which hissed at me before slithering into it's burrow. I'd hoped to stop for a final feed at White bridge but someone had beaten me to it. Next option was by the Geldie but a couple were ensconced there. It looked a bit iffy as the storms of last year have started to wreck the nice smooth bed the river has followed for the last 8 years since storm Frank in 2016. There was also a fair bit of water in it - nothing drastic but indicative of the fact that everything was still pretty wet... I don't like having an audience but a certain amount of determination and 29+ got me through dry. Finally by the Bynack burn I found a suitable rock to sit on and ate the last of my food.
This was, as usual, a hoot. Clouds were gathering but I seemed to bypass them down the glens twists and turns. Every time I ride this trail I seem to find another challenge. I cleaned a few killer sections and fluffed some others - but all in all a fab run. Then the transition back to rough double track, smooth track then motorway standard estate road back to the start. It's a great way to finish and I contemplated what I'd just done as I cruised down the last few miles, a large grin on my face. Definitely one to remember and a fine opportunity grabbed. I've ridden these trails numerous times but in a way it just makes it all the more enjoyable - no adventure here, just lots of fun!
And a good ride - 195k in total in about 13 hours ride time.
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